treatment of round table top edge

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02blues

New User
john
Wondering how to address the edge of my round table top with hand tools.

Could round over and leave it...

Any way to use a molding plane?
Does it need to have a matching curve?
Trouble with changing grain direction?
Scraper / Bead?

Might try to hand router out the central section leaving a 3/4 inch perimeter and carve or scrape that portion: pie crust style. ???
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
Wow, you stumped me on this one.

I found a book I'll need to check out, Classic Carved Furniture: Making a Piecrust Tea Table : A Step-By-Step Guide to Creating an American Classic by Tom Heller, Ron Clarkson

I'm going to go out on a limb and guess they rough out the table using a lathe then plane and scrape as needed. For the pie crust approach.

For an outside radius, I've seen compass planes either wood or metal that might do the trick. Or, spoke shaves, as they'd follow the curve.

Putting a round over likely could be a task for rasps and scrapers.

Don't give in to the powered router!!

Jim
 

02blues

New User
john
I have seen the lathe approach to the piecrust I think on the new yankee Workshop. I could probably do a spring pole version; like turning a bowl. Thats probably the way to go.

The other idea I had was to run my hand router / granny tooth between two small sticks that rest on the piecrust edge....?

Dont worry. I wont plug anything in. :wink_smil

A curved spoke shave with a molding plane contour...now there is an idea? Love my curved veritas...:icon_scra
 

striker

New User
Stephen
This table has a 1/8 bead on top and bottom edges with a cove in the center. I don’t know if this is pertinent to your question but here is a brief synopsis of how I went about it.

First, I used a marking knife to define the bead /cove transition and followed with a beading tool to rough out the center cove. I eased the outside edges over with rasp (file) then used a scraping tool ground to the proper radius to create the beads. Lastly. I used the beading tool to finish the cove.

Yes, the change in grain is challenging. I used a bit of mineral spirits and some verbal abuse to help the end grain along. I also had matched pair of beading tools setup so I could work from either side.

Stephen




FURNITURE_7c.JPG
 

02blues

New User
john
This table has a 1/8 bead on top and bottom edges with a cove in the center. I don’t know if this is pertinent to your question but here is a brief synopsis of how I went about it.

First, I used a marking knife to define the bead /cove transition and followed with a beading tool to rough out the center cove. I eased the outside edges over with rasp (file) then used a scraping tool ground to the proper radius to create the beads. Lastly. I used the beading tool to finish the cove.

Yes, the change in grain is challenging. I used a bit of mineral spirits and some verbal abuse to help the end grain along. I also had matched pair of beading tools setup so I could work from either side.

Stephen




FURNITURE_7c.JPG


Wow. That is an amazing table. I am very impressed. Thanks for the tips.
 

cpowell

New User
Chuck
I used block planes and spokeshave to rough out the edge on my DR table. I then used a profiled edge in a card scraper to get the final shape.

Be careful with grain direction and make sure the blades are really sharp and it will go pretty well. The learning curve is short really, just be patient. And I can see from your work that you have patience.


IMG_24902.JPG




Scraper was used more like a scratch stock. And it worked quite well.

IMG_2577.JPG




Final product pic.

IMG_2613.JPG



Chuck
 
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