Transporting a cabinet saw?

[mdawson2]

I am about to invest in my first real table saw, a 3HP Grizzly cabinet saw. :eusa_danc I'm buying it second hand. The saw will also have to make an 80-100 mile or so journey back to my garage. So what is the best way to get it home? I am hoping my FIL will let me use his enclosed trailer. If not, I have access to a pickup as well as a 5x8 trailer. The enclosed trailer would seem like the obvious choice. The saw has a mobile base (Shop Fox I believe) so I'm thinking it would just go right up the ramp. Might have a small gap to cross.

I'm thinking that I need to take off all the accessories and put those in the back of my SUV (fence, blade guard, motor cover, wrenches, etc.). I'm also hoping the owner has the brace for the motor that I could put back on. I'll probably take the belt(s) off as well so they don't stretch. Should I take the saw off of the mobile base once it is in the trailer to tie it down? What other considerations should I take into account?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Any cast iron wings need to come off and protected. And I'd remove the rail as well. As for the motor, I wouldn't hesitate to stuff a U-Haul blanket or similar, under, over and around the motor packed tight.

 

[JohnW]

Mike,
I've moved a Griz 1023 twice. I recommend removing the fence & rails, all cast iron tops and wings, and remove the motor. Take it off the mobile base. This allows you to protect everything, and lightens the load so two guys can lift and handle all components. Also, re-assembly will teach you how to set up and adjust the saw. A properly tuned saw is a key safety requirement. All of this is covered in the manual available on Griz's web site.

Congrats on the new saw. You will love it.

 

[Bas]

Any cast iron wings need to come off and protected. And I'd remove the rail as well. As for the motor, I wouldn't hesitate to stuff a U-Haul blanket or similar, under, over and around the motor packed tight.

+1 on the wings and rail. I would not remove the top, because there are probably shims underneath, and you don't to mess with that if you can avoid it. Blanket or a block of wood should secure the motor. The mobile base might help...it all depends on how big the wheels are.

A shop crane would also help with loading/ unloading.

 

[mdawson2]

Any cast iron wings need to come off and protected. And I'd remove the rail as well. As for the motor, I wouldn't hesitate to stuff a U-Haul blanket or similar, under, over and around the motor packed tight.

Thanks for the tips Joe!

Mike,
I've moved a Griz 1023 twice. I recommend removing the fence & rails, all cast iron tops and wings, and remove the motor. Take it off the mobile base. This allows you to protect everything, and lightens the load so two guys can lift and handle all components. Also, re-assembly will teach you how to set up and adjust the saw. A properly tuned saw is a key safety requirement. All of this is covered in the manual available on Griz's web site.

Congrats on the new saw. You will love it.

Hmmm, if I take it apart that much I might be able to fit it in the back of my Sequoia. Then there would be no need for the trailer. John, any idea what the weight is with the motor and all cast iron off of the saw? I've already downloaded the manuals and I will definitely read them several times before I pick it up so I am familiar enough to disassemble it properly!

+1 on the wings and rail. I would not remove the top, because there are probably shims underneath, and you don't to mess with that if you can avoid it. Blanket or a block of wood should secure the motor. The mobile base might help...it all depends on how big the wheels are.

A shop crane would also help with loading/ unloading.

Thanks Bas! Don't have access to a shop crane, but I agree that would make it fairly easy!

 

[JohnW]

The heaviest component would still be the cabinet because the cast iron trunions would still be attached. But I'm 60 and not very big (strong). While they are heavy, I can pick up all components by myself. On the last move I slid the cabinet up into the bed of a small Ranger by flipping it on it's side as I lifted it up into the bed. If you had one person to help, you can manage all parts fairly well.

The motor is heavy so that is why I removed it. You don't have too but like others have said, brace it.

The motor I have can be wired for 110 or 220. The connection is explained on the manual and a very simple task if you have any wiring experience.

And I'll reiterate. A properly aligned saw is a safety issue. Learn how to adjust the top, wings, rails, fence etc... You will probably need to do it after the move regardless of degree of disassembly because things shift and get out of alignment. So I'd recommend the re-assemble as a learning tool as well as a safe method of moving the saw.
It's a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon...just you and your saw....alone, maybe some soft music playing in the background... Dang... I love tools.

 

[mdawson2]

As it turns out the enclosed trailer is no longer an option. It is being used to store some things right now. So it looks like I will be using a small landscape type trailer with a wood floor. I'll have to take a piece of plywood with me for the gate as it is made of mesh over steel bracing and I'm not sure the wheels of the mobile base will go over that too well!

So it looks like I will be removing the wings, rails, fence, motor cover, switch. Table top may stay depending on how difficult it is to get up the ramp. I'll take plenty of blankets to wrap everything and protect it, placing it in the back of the SUV. Then I will place the saw cabinet on the trailer, cover it with multiple blankets before strapping down to the trailer. I'll also support the motor with either the shipping bracket or some wood or blankets and remove the belt.

The heaviest component would still be the cabinet because the cast iron trunions would still be attached. But I'm 60 and not very big (strong). While they are heavy, I can pick up all components by myself. On the last move I slid the cabinet up into the bed of a small Ranger by flipping it on it's side as I lifted it up into the bed. If you had one person to help, you can manage all parts fairly well.

The motor is heavy so that is why I removed it. You don't have too but like others have said, brace it.

The motor I have can be wired for 110 or 220. The connection is explained on the manual and a very simple task if you have any wiring experience.

And I'll reiterate. A properly aligned saw is a safety issue. Learn how to adjust the top, wings, rails, fence etc... You will probably need to do it after the move regardless of degree of disassembly because things shift and get out of alignment. So I'd recommend the re-assemble as a learning tool as well as a safe method of moving the saw.
It's a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon...just you and your saw....alone, maybe some soft music playing in the background... Dang... I love tools.

Thanks John! This saw will be 220V. I have to add 220 in the garage. I've done plenty of electrical and hold a degree in Electrical Engineering so I should be good there! As for the set up of the saw, I am very meticulous and wouldn't trust anyone else to set it up so even had I not disassembled the saw it would have been checked and adjusted by me anyway. I'll have to pick up a dial indicator and make Joe's miter slot jig as well! Fortunately I have used a saw of this caliber in the past having a Unisaw in our shop back when I did custom car stereos. It has been a long time since I had a decent table saw to use and I am looking forward to it!

 

[junquecol]

When I moved my Uni several years ago, I did the usual, removed fence, wings etc. Got it to tail gate of truck, and flipped it over on to an old tire for cushioning. Strapped her in and came home. Unloaded it the same way.

 

[Pop Golden]

According to eveything I've been told & read you're doing the most important thing "moving it yourself." Everyone says people who move things for a living have no idea howto move shop equipment. Good luck.

Pop

 

[buildintechie]

If you need help lifting the main cabinet, when I moved mine, we had 4 people lifting it with 2 2x4s under the table. Mine wasnt as heavy as a cabinet, as its a delta 10" on a mobile bade, but it worked very well...especially since I couldnt roll it through the muddy back yard.

 

[KenOfCary]

You can rent an engine hoist (shop crane) from most rental places or buy one on sale from Harbor Freight. Don't buy their 1 ton unit - it is a piece of crap. The two ton unit is nice though and has the necessary boom length to get things on/off a pickup.

- Ken.

 

[mdawson2]

Well, i bought it! And I think it turned out to be quite a steal! Got it home a few hours ago. Just got done with cleaning up the saw a little and aligning everything. I will start a new thread with some pics a little later. Thanks to everyone for your advice! With the help of a friend, the previous owner, and even a fellow ncwoodworker member, we got it home safely. Took off the wings, rails, motor cover, and guard, then rolled the table onto the trailer while still on the mobile base. Once near the middle of the trailer we lifted the saw out of the base. I then used some pallet scraps to block around the base so it couldn't slide around. We then covered it with blankets and a tarp before strapping it to the trailer.

Drove the 80 miles back home, removed the blankets and tarp, then the blocking. Lifted the saw back on to the mobile base and rolled it off the trailer and into the garage!