Tips wanted: Jet 1020 drum sander

[Chaz]

I picked up a JET 10/20 drum sander the other day. Loving it. Until it's time to change the wrap that is.

I mean, I can change the wrap, it's not that difficult, but it does have a certain PITA factor. Getting it right means a bit of fussing and I wonder if I'm actually doing it right.

Any have any tips to make this easier, besides reading the manual (again).

TIA

 

[bphaynes]

Is the Performax the same? If so, it confused me until I realized the angled side of the paper starts on the outside, rather than the flat side if that makes sense (I think I'm remembering rightly).

 

[Chaz]

Is the Performax the same? If so, it confused me until I realized the angled side of the paper starts on the outside, rather than the flat side if that makes sense (I think I'm remembering rightly).

I think the Performax and Jet are the same drum.

 

[drw]

Chaz, a drum sander is an awesome tool, I use my frequently. That said, changing paper can be problematic; I really don't know of any helpful tips other than keep working at it; changing belts does get a little less of a hassle but it has never become hassle free. In terms of using the sander, I have found that very light passes at a slow belt speed increases belt longevity and you a much less likely to burn the wood. Good luck and enjoy your new tool!

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

I've got a Performax 16/32, which is a bigger, older brother to the Jet line. I used to struggle with changing the belts until I learned the tricks and hacks. Here goes:

• Spend the extra $ and buy pre-cut rolls. They're always the right size and save a lot of time and aggravation when changing rolls. They are rolled up so they unroll properly onto the drum.
• The outboard clamp is simple enough. Open the clamp and stick the sandpaper ~1" into the clamp, then release. Make sure the angled edge lines up with the outer rim of the drum as you roll the 1st wrap around the drum.
• Make sure there is no overlap of the sandpaper as you wrap it. A little gap is ok--<1/16".
• When you get to the end of the drum and the inboard clamp, bend the tip of the sandpaper down at a 90 degree angle so it sticks right into the slot.
• Even up the wraps on the drum before you do the inboard clamping. The paper won't move under pressure. (duh).
• The inboard clamp is a two stage clamp--stage 1 clamps onto the sandpaper, stage 2 puts tension on the sandpaper belt. Stage 1 is the weaker spring, so when you release your grip the sandpaper is gripped 1st, then the tension is applied.
• Reach inside the drum with your left index finger, find the clamp, and pull it all the way up to the inside rim of the drum. This takes a strong grip; it opens both clamps. Insert the sandpaper into the slot. Make sure the tip fed properly into the clamp. You may need to cut off some of the tip of the sandpaper.
• Release the clamp partway until you feel the pull on the sandpaper. This signals the paper is inserted properly into the gripping clamp. Release the clamp the rest of the way. You should see and feel the paper tighten against the drum.
• If you didn't get the paper tight, fiddle with the angle of the belt tip until it inserts itself properly when you stick it in the slot. Keep doing this until you get it right.

I did some other postings on other threads, re: drum sanders. No brag, just fact I got some compliments on how helpful they were in proper usage of a drum sander.

 

[kelLOGg]

I have the Performax 16/32 also and would like to add to Wiley's excellent instructions. The inboard clamp is difficult see because it is near the yoke that the drum is attached to. I made a probe from stiff wire and bent the tip to make a hook for inserting into one of the holes in the stage 1 clamp. This allows you to pull up on the clamp for insertion of the sandpaper. Once you get the hook in the hole it takes a pretty strong pull.
I tried using a finger, but the area is so inaccessible there is no way I could see what I was doing.

 

[MikeMen]

Wiley has it right. I have a 22/44 performax with the same problem. I found that after I got the inboard clamp set I would have to go back and tighten up the belt and reset the clamp. This put the belt under tension. Also after a little use it would stretch a bit and take another bite on the inboard clamp. Then it was OK until the belt was worn out.

 

[Sstrave]

I have a little wood wedge I use to immobilize the drum when I'm tightening the wrap and sticking the tapered end into the final clamp. This seems to help me get a nice tight consistent wrap.

 

[Charlie]

I have a little wood wedge I use to immobilize the drum when I'm tightening the wrap and sticking the tapered end into the final clamp. This seems to help me get a nice tight consistent wrap.

Ditto

 

[Willemjm]

I picked up a JET 10/20 drum sander the other day. Loving it. Until it's time to change the wrap that is.

I mean, I can change the wrap, it's not that difficult, but it does have a certain PITA factor. Getting it right means a bit of fussing and I wonder if I'm actually doing it right.

Any have any tips to make this easier, besides reading the manual (again).

TIA

The best advice I can give is practice makes perfect. After you have done it a few times, it will be easy.

 

[Chaz]

The best advice I can give is practice makes perfect. After you have done it a few times, it will be easy.

Great advice. I'm practicing a lot.

I even figured out a way to secure the drum that makes belt changes tons easier.

It doesn't like me to get too frisky with depth-of-cut.

 

[Tarhead]

I use duct tape on the back of the ends. It helps reduce the chance of the tip breaking off before I'm finished.

 

[tvrgeek]

Sounds like I am in for some "fun" in the future. Only used mine once so far so I have not had this joy.

 

[Chaz]

What I do, is use a 3/4" dowel straight through the drum so it butts up against the frame and stops the drum from truning so you can have both hands for securing the pointy end of the belt into either clamp. Works slick. It's so much fun that I sit down in the shop and switch out belts all night. Not really, but it is pretty slick and makes belt changes tons easier.

What I don't get is why Jet couldn't add a spindle stop like my lathe (Jet 1640) has. It's nearly impossible to replace the belt without some way a securing the drum in a particular position. Nearly.