Thick console table

agrieco

New User
anthony
"Thick" probably isn't the best way to describe it, but I've had on my 'todo' list for a while to build a console table like this. https://www.arhaus.com/products/sullivan-console-table.

Anyone built something like this and have any pointers? The description of the item itself mentions the use of veneers. The only thing I've ever used veneers for is edge banding! So, to get started, I'd appreciate any advise or input on the structure of such an item that would be veneered and any other input I should be thinking about while this is still in the concept phase!

many thanks
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
If I were to make something like that, I'd make three boxes out of cabinet-grade plywood, glue & screw them together, cap the narrowest sides with mitered hardwood, and veneer the visible surfaces to match. It would be massively strong. Still heavy, but not solid wood heavy.

1639938321511.png
 

agrieco

New User
anthony
If I were to make something like that, I'd make three boxes out of cabinet-grade plywood, glue & screw them together, cap the narrowest sides with mitered hardwood, and veneer the visible surfaces to match. It would be massively strong. Still heavy, but not solid wood heavy.

View attachment 206711
Perfect. Exactly the input I was looking for and conceptually makes sense to me. Will have to think through grain match on the big surfaces vs narrower hardwood sides...but this seems like a good approach to me.
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
I'd veneer the large panels (top, inside and outside of each leg) onto plywood with a vacuum press first. Build a box for the legs and a "U" channel for the top. Matching cleats on the inside allow glue and screw. I would probably attach the cleat to the top with sliding dovetail, dado or dowels for added strength. The leg cleats can be made to have more surface area. As Martin said - solid wood for thin sides - but you could also veneer those after assembly of the boxes if you want a good match with top and sides.
 

Attachments

  • Waterfall table.pdf
    287.4 KB · Views: 90

agrieco

New User
anthony
I'd veneer the large panels (top, inside and outside of each leg) onto plywood with a vacuum press first. Build a box for the legs and a "U" channel for the top. Matching cleats on the inside allow glue and screw. I would probably attach the cleat to the top with sliding dovetail, dado or dowels for added strength. The leg cleats can be made to have more surface area. As Martin said - solid wood for thin sides - but you could also veneer those after assembly of the boxes if you want a good match with top and sides.
Pictures help tremendously! Thank you. I like the idea of the cleats. Some dominos on the top cleat should work great for added strength.

I'm sure i'll be back with questions on the veneer strategy- but this is exactly the help I needed. thank you.
 

Martin Roper

Martin
Senior User
Perfect. Exactly the input I was looking for and conceptually makes sense to me. Will have to think through grain match on the big surfaces vs narrower hardwood sides...but this seems like a good approach to me.

One of these days I need to experiment with veneering right up to the face of the hardwood side. I'm planning on a speaker cabinet build in the future and I want to see if that could create that "single block of wood" effect I'm looking for.

Anyone here done anything like that?
 

JNCarr

Joe
Corporate Member
@Martin - I haven't but would think it's similar to veneer-to-veneer. Maybe I'm missing something?
Coincidentally, here's a veneering job just finished. Slip-match walnut face and edge banding over 24mm baltic birch. The 4 tight bends are tricky.
 

Attachments

  • Back Edge Veneered.jpg
    Back Edge Veneered.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 70
  • Back Veneered and Cut - front side.jpg
    Back Veneered and Cut - front side.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 75

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