Tapered Sliding DT's - First Try

[PeteM]

I'm pretty happy with the way they turned out so I thought I'd share.
They're not as hard as I thought they would be.

First I cut the slot in the case side:

I'm using a 1/2" DT bit to make a 5/8" slot so the distance between the guides is the diameter of the router base (6") plus 1/8" and the side taper so the bottom is 3/32" wider than the top.

Then I cut the shelves too fit the slot:

I taped a 1/32" wedge on the back edge of the shelf to create the taper and (after a bit if fussing with the bit height) routed away.

Here's the fit:

The shelf slips in easily to this point and then you just bash it in from there!

pete

 

[Bill Clemmons]

Great job Pete. I did a sliding dovetail taper some years ago and it was NOT a pretty site. :no: Thanks for showing how you did it. Someday I'll try again.

Bill

 

[Gofor]

Great job. :icon_thum:icon_thum

I haven't had the guts to try one yet, but know I will need to in the future. I just keep thinking of designs that call for one. Thanks for the pics.

Go

 

[Joe Scharle]

Great job Pete! I'm going to offer another way you might try next time and let me know which you like best.

I use one of my self-clamping adjustable dado jigs. The one I use a with a 1/2" bit (see pic below). What I do is rout the pins first; no taper, just a 1/2" pin. Then I setup the jig for a 1/2" dado, but open the upper side an additional 1/16" at the rear of the slot. This makes a tapered slot from tight at the front, to loose at the back. The lower part of the slot is parallel to the ground and the edge of the board hides the 'creeping' gap from sight.

View image in gallery​