Stud column to "timber beam"

[fattrackie]

Hello group

I have been lurking off and on for a while now, and finally have a good question for the group.

I am mid remodel and have removed a pantry in the kitchen to make way for a new dishwasher. One corner stud pairing is 2 2x4's seperated with some 2x blocking (so about 1.5 inches between the faces of the studs). I am leaving the column in place because up the middle of the blocking is the electrical for the overhead lights, and phone and data cables.

The ceiling is T&G knotty pine with 4x6 beams that have been left sort of rough, saw marks and so on. So I want to make this stud column look like the ceiling beams. 3 sides will be visible, the fourth will have shallow shelves ending into it.

So how can I make this look right? I only have a circ saw, compound miter saw, rotozip and assorted hand tools. While I would love to need to purchase a table saw or router or any major tool to do this, there is no way that is in the budget right now.

I have the article from this spring's fine homebuilding about ceiling box beams, but I want this to look like one solid hunk of wood. How do I hide the joints? Any on-line tutorials on this sort of thing? I attempted to google diy box beam but got a bunch of reclaimed lumber places (pretty cool reading mind you but not what I am looking for).

Thanks in advance

FT

 

[chris99z71]

FT,
The most common way to make something covered in 1x stock to look like a solid beam is to 45° bevel cut the joining corners. While a tablesaw is by far the easiest way to do this, a circular saw with a good straight edge and a steady hand may do the trick.
This picture is probably more descriptive than my words. Keep in mind, this is a view looking down from the top:

 

[Littlejon]

Don't know what kind of circular saw you have, but assuming it has a place for a guide, I would go that route. They aren't expensive (my Porter Cable one cost about $15) and will allow you to make a good, straight cut. Since you will bevel the rip to 45 degrees, cutting straight will be a must. If you happen to get off a little, you can sand it down to get it close. It may not be "perfect", but you can make it work. As long as your cut is straight and the angle is true (check it with a 45 degree square), you should have no problems.

I used to have to do all my work with a circular saw and hand tools due to lack of funds and rich relatives willing to give tools for gifts!:rolf: Just take your time and it will be fine.

Oh yeah, if you can, clamp the board to your sawhorse or whatever you cut on. You can make good sawhorses from 2x4 scraps. I made some real good ones that look similar to an I-beam and work great.

 

[wilkesland]

What the others said. As an experiment, you might want to try with some shorter pieces setting your saw to just a fuzz more than 45 degrees. This will obviously give you a small gap in the back, but who cares. That way you will assure yourself of a dead tight seam on the exposed edge. Straight is, of course, a necessity. As another poster said, you can make yourself a really good edge guide out of a sheet of plywood.

Hope this helps

Barry

 

[Gofor]

For the wood for your beam, you might look for some rough-sawn cypress (right from the mill) to get the wood surface texture. Some of the cedar from Lowes might work also, but if its dry, it spinters and tears out very easily on the cuts.

 

[dtomasch]

I think the 45 is a great route. It works really well if you ca get a bit more than 45 like another suggested. Glue and a "mash miter" helps as well since you are looking for rough beams. Take your time on setting up your straight edge and you should be ok. A sharp blade is very helpful too.

 

[fattrackie]

So should I switch to a blade with more teeth on it? like a 40t or 60t carbide blade? I think the one I have already is 40t is that good enough?

So far as far as assembly goes, should I use little finish nails and glue, or just glue? Should I glue the 1x to the studs directly?

Now I wish I had bought the 96" saw guide from rockler when they were on sale... guess I have to make do with my angled aluminum straight edge.

I will head up to Fitch lumber at lunch time and see what they have for good 1x stock, I would love to find some with some big knots in it just like the ceiling beams.

Sunday is the next big work day, I will post some photos of my progress/results then.

PS should I stain before installation or after? Should I sand or plane the corners after it is put up?

Thanks again

Greg

 

[wilkesland]

I've had good results with a 40 t blade, but depends on the blade. Try some test cuts on scrap.

As far as finish nails, I use them to hold alignment in the miter till the glue dries. If you can clamp it up like it needs to be without the finish nails go for it.

Regarding gluing to the studs, I think this is personal preference. My preference is not to glue but use finish nails for attachment. My reason is that I've been known to change my mind later and it is easy to demolish without the glue. :lol: Glue will make it stronger, but since this is not structural, I don't see the need and it will definitely be more difficult to tear out if you ever change your mind.

Hope this helps

Barry

 

[Gofor]

With phone and data cables behind it, I would make it where it could be removed.

 

[Littlejon]

You DO NOT want to glue them to the studs! Trust me, it is a real pain to get them off if you ever need to. I have done some demo work on houses where people glued stuff up and it was enough to make this Southern Baptist cuss!

Besides that, it need to be able to move some. Depending on the amount of moisture on the wood, it could twist, swell or contract over time. It will also change with the humidity in your house with the seasons. Gluing it to the studs could be a real pain should the wood twist or crack and need to be removed.

 

[walnutjerry]

I will head up to Fitch lumber at lunch time and see what they have for good 1x stock, I would love to find some with some big knots in it just like the ceiling beams.

Thanks again

Greg

Greg---------You have received good advice in the other posts. After doing your best with a straight edge as a guide and you still have a less than perfect fit on the mitered edges----you can take a nail set or any smooth piece of metal and "ping" the corners. By that I mean to rub or roll along the joint from both sides of it toward the corner--that will make the gaps(if any) close up.

Ask for sheeting grade southern yellow pine----it has a lot of knots most of the time and is relatively inexpensive compared to first quality lumber.
HTH

Jerry

 

[NCPete]

you can take a nail set or any smooth piece of metal and "ping" the corners. By that I mean to rub or roll along the joint from both sides of it toward the corner--that will make the gaps(if any) close up.

Jerry

I like that trick, and have used it before, I just didn't know what it was called:lol:. very effective way to close up outside gaps without the odd look a filler might give.

 

[dick541]

GREG:
If you want to put those boards thru a table saw on a 45, let me know and you can come over to my place any weekend and use my table saw and whatever to clean them up.
dick