I'm finally setting up my jointer for first time and I don't have anything good enough for straight edge. My question is will a 24" be long enough or do I need to get 38". I'm pretty sure the tables are going to face to be shimmed and I'm replacing the blades. It's a open stand Delta 6 inch if that makes a difference thanks
Straight edge ?
- Thread starter Trey1984
- Start date
You can get the job done with a 24" level. A 48" level would be nice but not necessary. Here are the steps:
- Set the jointer in place in your shop. Adjust the feet until there is no wobble and the level's bubble is inside the lines.
- Lay the level on the outfeed table and extend it over the cutter head with the new blades installed. Adjust the outfeed table until its surface is exactly even with the cutter blade at TDC. Shim/adjust it until horizontally it is bubble perfect level end-to-end. Lock it in place; you'll never adjust this again until you change blades.
- Drop the infeed table just below the cutter head. Butt the level into the cutter head and shim/adjust the table until it is bubble perfect level.
- Rotate the cutter head until the blade is below TDC, i.e. not touching the level. Lay the level across both tables and raise the infeed table until it touches the level. Things should be bubble perfect level table-to-table. Move the level side to side with most of the level resting on one table or the other to double check the tables being level with each other.
- Rotate the cutter back to TDC. Adjust the depth-of-cut indicator to zero.
- Move the infeed table up and down a few times, then lay the level on it to make sure the mechanism works properly. If there is sloppiness in the mechanism or your table goes off bubble perfect level, you're in trouble.
An aluminum yard stick may also suffice, but is easy to bend when on edge, I have found that most aluminum levels are slightly concave (several thousandths, but enough to see light through the gap) on the side opposite the bubble. Most likely close enough for that purpose.
To check an edge for straightness, you actually need three of them. If all three match without seeing a light between the edges, than all three are truly straight. It is possible to have a matching bow and concave with just two, but they will both not match a third one, regardless if its straight, bowed or concave. I use this method when making winding sticks to check for twist when hand planing.
When buying a 6' level, I went to Lowes and they had eight in the rack. I could not find three that matched out of the eight, but was able to find three that were just a hair off, of which I bought one. Several were quite a bit off. I had similar results when buying a 4' level, both at Home Depot and Sears.
To check an edge for straightness, you actually need three of them. If all three match without seeing a light between the edges, than all three are truly straight. It is possible to have a matching bow and concave with just two, but they will both not match a third one, regardless if its straight, bowed or concave. I use this method when making winding sticks to check for twist when hand planing.
When buying a 6' level, I went to Lowes and they had eight in the rack. I could not find three that matched out of the eight, but was able to find three that were just a hair off, of which I bought one. Several were quite a bit off. I had similar results when buying a 4' level, both at Home Depot and Sears.
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This worked for me.
There are instructions for a Master Bar straight edge you can make out of three pieces of plywood/mdf and drywall screws in the book Care and Repair of Shop Machines by John White. You can make them as long as your jointer beds to measure coplanarity. You probably want to add this book to your reference library as it includes lots of details and instructions for diy care of other pieces of shop machinery in addition to this pearl.
Care and Repair of Shop Machines Google Books Preview
You install three screws spaced along one edge of each of three pieces and adjust the screws so there is no click when you attempt to rock them against the other pieces of plywood/mdf that are the same length with screws in the same location. No click equals straight. We use the same principle to check fret level on guitar necks by spanning three frets with a small triangle of machined tool steel or a section of drill rod.
Care and Repair of Shop Machines Google Books Preview
You install three screws spaced along one edge of each of three pieces and adjust the screws so there is no click when you attempt to rock them against the other pieces of plywood/mdf that are the same length with screws in the same location. No click equals straight. We use the same principle to check fret level on guitar necks by spanning three frets with a small triangle of machined tool steel or a section of drill rod.
The instructions are in the pdf I posted earlier.
You sure did and I didn't see it! Oh well, mine is an option for those who haven't gone down the hand plane rabbit hole and can hear.
I use the above referenced devices to set up and check my 8" jointer. They work great. Simple to make, inexpensive, and good, reliable accuracy. What more can you want.
I also have a 38" precision straightedge from Lee Valley. I used it to set up my jointer, planer and table saw. Since I am in the process of selling off my shop, I'd be happy to sell this straightedge too. Current price at LV is $56, half price to you - $28.
I am in Cary if you are nearby.
I am in Cary if you are nearby.
Pm sent
Thanks for the offer. Very much appreciated. Going to get straight edge to have. Reason to buy new tool.
