Spray Shellac under clear exterior paint?

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farmerbw

Brian
Corporate Member
We're currently working on an outdoor table project and I've been playing around with using semi-gloss clear exterior latex paint for some other items with good success until now. I've used the paint on maple and pine with good results but this project is using ERC and it's not working as well as the other woods. It takes thin coats for the paint to really be clear so I have been building up coats when I used it before. On the ERC the knotty areas are absorbing the paint differently and leaving a white hue which is for sure what I don't want since there are burnings and colored drawings on the top that we don't want to have a white hue. Could I put a coat of spray shellac down first on the table top and then coat with the clear paint? I say spray mainly because that's all I'll probably be able to get my hands on where we're currently at. The clear paint I'm using is Valspar Duramax semi-gloss exterior latex tinting base 4 with no tint added so it really does dry clear when applied properly.

Oh, did I mention that while I just discovered this we need to have the project completed by tomorrow afternoon?!?!??!! :eek::eek:

TIA,
Brian.
 

adowden

New User
Amy
I am not a finishing expert, but I would think as long as you use dewaxed shellac, you would be fine. You can get Zinsser Seal Coat at the BORGs. I got mine at Lowes HI. It is a 2 lb. cut and dries relatively fast. Good luck!

Amy
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
What are you trying to do? By "clear paint" are you referring to using an untinted exterior paint as a clear finish? If so, an untinted oil based finish is what you want to use. Untinted latex waterbased exterior finish is not very clear and is going to create the problems you describe.

In addition, some cedars are problematic to finish. The oils that exude the characteristic odor can impede the drying of the finish.

My suggestion is to get a clear oil based base and then apply a coat or two of dewaxed shellac before applying the untinted base.

As always, test out you finishing plans on scrap from your project.
 

farmerbw

Brian
Corporate Member
Amy, thanks for the suggestion on locating some shellac.

Unfortunately where I currently am isn't overrun with BORGs of any color so my only 2 choices were ACE hardware stores with limited inventory since they're in "vacation towns". Neither of them had any type of shellac and barely had sandpaper adequate for my needs since I forgot my container of paper at home. The best I could do at one of the stores was minwax Polycrylic, so I opted to remove the coat I had put on the bottom of the board and just use that since the table is only going to be used outside and not left out so an exterior coating wasn't really needed to begin with. It's ironic I guess since most of what we normally use is GF's polycrylic, but of course that was also in the bin with my sandpaper and a few other stains which are all safely sitting on a counter several states away!! :)

Howard, thanks. Yes that is exaclty what I'm referring to. I haven't been successful in locating any exterior oil based tinting bases so after reading an article in Wood ( I think) that indicated the water based tinting bases could also be used in the same "clear paint" fashion as long as it was applied in thin coats. I had experimented and had success with thin coats on some pine and maple stuff we made for the kids to play with outside and it dried clear on those pieces so I mistakenly figured it would do the same on other woods. :BangHead:

Luckily for me I started on the bottom of the piece to see how it would come out since I also forgot the offcuts of the same ERC, also sitting safely at home :D. I've been using the GF Polycrylic on other things made from this same ERC so I was fairly hopeful that the minwax would perform the same and got lucky that it did. It was a major pita getting the other coating off the bottom since I never thought to pack a ros since the piece was already finish sanded and just needed to be burned, pictures stained, and top coated. The tiny ACE hardware stores didn't even have any ros for sale either so I had to make do with a very old B&D sanding pad attachment for a drill, which I fortunately always bring since they're almost always needed when we visit. I was able to remove the initial coating without messing up the bottom and the recipients were very pleased with the finished piece. I'll get some pictures posted of the piece in the next day or so once I can locate the appropriate cable......

BTW Howard, any pointers on where I might be able to get oil based exterior base paints? I'm guessing maybe "real" paint stores like Sherwin Williams or the like?

Thanks again for the assistance.

Brian.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
>>>> BTW Howard, any pointers on where I might be able to get oil based exterior base paints? I'm guessing maybe "real" paint stores like Sherwin Williams or the like?

Yes, real paint stores will have it but may give you a "ration of s**t" about selling you just the untinted base. I don't know where you live by around me in coastal NC, you can still get oil based exterior house trim. That's what I have always used.
 

farmerbw

Brian
Corporate Member
Howard, thanks for the update and I was expecting to get much manure over asking for untinted bases. I'm in Raleighwood NC and there are some Sherwins around so I'll give one of them a shot. Are you generally using the #4 or #5 tinting base in your area?

Thanks again for all your feedback.
Brian.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Brian, the following is the genesis article about "clear paint". It will give you all the details. The base is labeled somewhat differently by different formulators so read the article carefully to know which one you want to use. Notice also, that the deficiencies if you elect to use a waterborne finish. Oil based works much better. Jim Kull was the initial proponent of clear paint finish and was a friend of mine.

http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.com/Articles/ArticleViewPage/tabid/75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx
 
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