Somewhat miss-led

tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
So one of the "trusted" Y-tubers made a comment about how a #45 plane comes apart so easy. OK, Looked like a fun project to try a few things I had not none in restoring old British cars, like stripping and re-plating.

Well,

The Handle seems to be pined on from one side. No idea how to remove it. Any ideas?

One of the depth adjusters seems to be made where the top threads do not clear. It seems it installed from the bottom and then the shoe swaged on. I am filing the threads deeper so it can be removed.

Now the seller was not quite straight. One depth guide lock boss was broken. I can fix it, but will be difficult.
Depth adjuster screw seems like it took a whack and is not quite strait. Works, but not as smooth as it should be.

Fun project and I can make it fully functional, just looks like cosmetic restoration is a lot harder than I expected. Main body seems to have been flash copper plated, then the top. All other parts were not. I was wondering what kind of plating (other than very poor). Nickel or Zinc?

Full set of cutters and only a couple look like they were ever used. I got it as I wanted the beading cutters for a project I have in mind. A pit of work and they should be tip-top.
 
R

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
Scott, have you checked with any companies that do plating? They might be able to help you with what you want done to the plane.

Roy G
 
O

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Scott, after you prep, you can copper plate 1st this make both finish and adhesion of final plating better a 45 plane is pretty convoluted and prep will be time consuming. If you want to consider an easier finish, might consider a chemical oxide (bluing) finish.

Good luck
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Using some "one step" got it all pretty cleaned up. May blue and there are several chemical treatments. or even just wax. I like to learn something new on every project. I got the depth adjuster working better. Half the problem was they left a burr on the threads when they milled the slot. For sure, it is a "user" I was just toying with making it pretty. One way to prep is reverse plate.

Copper plate is easy, but the disposal is a big problem. A cup of copper solution can shut down an entire sewage treatment plant.

Tomorrow I till attack all the blades. A couple are pitted where I am not sure I can get an edge, but most look OK.
 
Rwe2156

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
IIRC mine seemed to have a plating on it. Have you tried actually using the 45? Depth adjustment is a little fiddly & the nickers don't really work worth a darn so be sure to score a knife line across grain.

I've got an older model with the floral scrollwork and a full set of blades in the original box but it is on a display shelf LOL.
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Making progress on the blades. Pitted of course. Most look to have never been used, yet not a one was ground at the same angle.

I honed the flats of the nickers. hey have been hand "sharpened", which means screwed up. I will give them a try, but yea, good knife score first is always the best practice as I am learning.

While I take a break, I will look into surface finishes. Blueing is possible, but there are newer processes.
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Just looked it up. Blueing requires almost 500 degrees baking. OK for the iron, not for the wood handle which I have no idea how to get off. Not sure cast iron has enough carbon for it to work. Can't get quite all the plating off unless I get the handle off.

Black oxide, or zinc phosphate is not a good option. Rubs off. ( The active ingredient is rust converters)

Might just get a bit if clear rattle can. or maybe just warm it up and oil/wax.
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
VTH satin black is really nice.

Spent the day getting past the pits to solid metal. Only about half way through in the pictures.
Boy, they sure were rough ground. I am not sure how sharp I need to get them, but I think my diamond spear file is about 1000. Looks like they left the factory at about 200. A few more hours, and I can lay it on some wood.
 

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E

Echd

C
User
You could always use something like cold gun bluing as opposed to a hot blue. It isn't very durable but its easy to do. I like the epoxy idea better.
 
Mike Davis

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I think the appliance epoxy I use is Valspar, would have to go look. I get it at my local hardware store. I like to support local businesses owned and operated by a real person rather than National corporate chain stores whenever I can. But, I have to admit, I also order from Amazon quite a bit when the local guys don’t have what I need.
 
M

marinosr

Richard
Corporate Member
Disposing of copper solution... mix a good amount of washing soda (sodium carbonate) into the copper-containing solution. All of the copper will precipitate out as copper carbonate hydroxide (a.k.a. malachite). You can then decant the liquid down the drain and trash the solids.
 
Rwe2156

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Looks nice, would have been more original if you could have nickel plated it. Function is all the matters.

You've got the knob - that's hard to find if missing. I find I don't use it, too much forward pressure so I grab the rods.

I bought replacement nickers somewhere, maybe Ebay. I think I paid thru the nose for them, and they didn't fit exactly. Sharpened up the one good spur, but they really don't work that well. But you don't really need them
 
tvrgeek

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
If I could have figured out how to get the handle off, I might have tried the nickel plate as a learning experience.
For now, as it is a user, I'll go with it painted.
 
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