Yes to everything. I use a scrap of wood with a thin kerf cut at about 15 degrees to hold the blade steady/square and grind a taper about 3/4" long on the back of one side and the front of the other. This allows plenty of surface area for the solder to grab when you overlap them and eliminates a hump. Bob used a grinding cup if my memory is correct which had the sides at a shallow angle. I use a scrap of angle iron with an opening cut out in the middle and spring clamps as a fixture.Mark, please explain the scarf joint. Are the ends tapered/ thinned and overlapped?
Thanks Bob!Here's a thread.
Bandsaw blade soldering (lotsa pics) - Old Woodworking Machines
or another version of same
Bandsaw Blade Soldering - VintageMachinery.org Knowledge Base (Wiki)
..the links give the text explaining the photos but since I have them at hand, I'll post here for entertainment.