In a recent thread, Mike (Patlaw) asked that I post some pictures of a table saw jig I use to establish a straight edge on rough or bowed lumber. So, I decided to start a new thread.
This is a jig I made about 8-10 years ago and that has seen a lot of use. It is made of mostly readily on-hand materials and and only takes a moderate level of skill. As you can see, it is a bit crude, and there could be some improvements on it to make it easier to use (ex: t-tracks instead of holes for clamp adjustment, etc), but it works very well for some operations, like putting a straight edge on a saw-mill board, and cutting long or slim tapers like you would use for wedges, or tapered table legs.
The pictures in this post show the different views of the basic jig, as well as pictures of the home-made clamps that grab well for varying wood thickness. The holes are somewhat random, and should you build one, should be located based on the length and width of the stock you plan to use as well as the reach of whatever clamps you end up using. The clamps are of a design I saw in some woodworking magazine many years ago of which I do not remember the name. The actual jig design may have come from the same source, but "old-timers" has deleted it from my memory.
I used 3/8" diameter carriage bolts, so the through holes are 3/8", and the head recess is 1" (done with a forstner bit). The clamp knobs came from Klingspor's. I recessed the miter slot bar (mine is oak) in a shallow dado to ensure it remained straight. May not be necessary with a store-bought miter bar. The clamp bodies are made from laminated 3/4" ply. The rounded butt and tongue ends ensure a solid grab regardless of wood thickness. I also showed a rod set-up that I use in my table saw T-slot, so I can use these clamps on more than just the jig to hold feather boards, stop blocks, etc. Not having a welder, I just threaded holes in bar stock and used a jam nut to secure the threaded rod in place.
I hope the pictures are self--explanatory. They are also in my Gallery.
I will post some pics of it in use in following posts.
Go
This is a jig I made about 8-10 years ago and that has seen a lot of use. It is made of mostly readily on-hand materials and and only takes a moderate level of skill. As you can see, it is a bit crude, and there could be some improvements on it to make it easier to use (ex: t-tracks instead of holes for clamp adjustment, etc), but it works very well for some operations, like putting a straight edge on a saw-mill board, and cutting long or slim tapers like you would use for wedges, or tapered table legs.
The pictures in this post show the different views of the basic jig, as well as pictures of the home-made clamps that grab well for varying wood thickness. The holes are somewhat random, and should you build one, should be located based on the length and width of the stock you plan to use as well as the reach of whatever clamps you end up using. The clamps are of a design I saw in some woodworking magazine many years ago of which I do not remember the name. The actual jig design may have come from the same source, but "old-timers" has deleted it from my memory.
I used 3/8" diameter carriage bolts, so the through holes are 3/8", and the head recess is 1" (done with a forstner bit). The clamp knobs came from Klingspor's. I recessed the miter slot bar (mine is oak) in a shallow dado to ensure it remained straight. May not be necessary with a store-bought miter bar. The clamp bodies are made from laminated 3/4" ply. The rounded butt and tongue ends ensure a solid grab regardless of wood thickness. I also showed a rod set-up that I use in my table saw T-slot, so I can use these clamps on more than just the jig to hold feather boards, stop blocks, etc. Not having a welder, I just threaded holes in bar stock and used a jam nut to secure the threaded rod in place.
I hope the pictures are self--explanatory. They are also in my Gallery.
I will post some pics of it in use in following posts.
Go