Shooting board plane

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Does anyone have a Shooting board plane? (Veritas or Lie Nielsen or ???)

I am looking for dimensions: OAL, sole to top of plane. sole width and thickness of the casting.

I looked but could not find dimensions anywhere???

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redknife

Chris
Corporate Member
Here are pics of the Veritas right hand shooting plane with a tape measure. If you have the need for more accuracy/precision I could measure differently.

0913753B-D214-41F3-A4C8-8AAEE050F116.jpeg

5CBC3622-4DF5-4BAD-B122-8F0905C063C6.jpeg
0913753B-D214-41F3-A4C8-8AAEE050F116.jpeg
5CBC3622-4DF5-4BAD-B122-8F0905C063C6.jpeg
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Thank you Chris!
That is EXACTly what I needed - other than the metrics conversion lesson! ha ha

So since you are the first to answer, I will let you in on the plan...
I saw a nice DIY woodie shooting board and thought to myself, a 1/4" angle iron with the right leg dimension should work well as the "structure" of a shooting board plane...

So, when my hand heals I plan to embark on some metal work for my woodwork! (don't anyone hold their breath on this one... it could take quite a while...
 

Wiley's Woodworks

Wiley
Corporate Member
Hey Hank--I followed your injury saga, just couldn't bring myself to look at the pictures. God speed your healing and recovery.

You'll probably think of this later, but good luck getting angle iron that is ready-to-use 90 degrees square like a milled Veritas plane, and that perfect 90 is the foundation of an accurate shooting plane. Off the shelf I would guess aluminum angle would be truer, but "guess" is the key word here.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Hey Hank--I followed your injury saga, just couldn't bring myself to look at the pictures. God speed your healing and recovery.

You'll probably think of this later, but good luck getting angle iron that is ready-to-use 90 degrees square like a milled Veritas plane, and that perfect 90 is the foundation of an accurate shooting plane. Off the shelf I would guess aluminum angle would be truer, but "guess" is the key word here.
Yup - thanks Wiley...
Agreed - 1/4 X 2-2/12 angle will be ROUGH
I plan to mill and or have the angle ground at 90 degrees...
I do not want to use aluminum since I am concerned with what it might leave behind (black marks on the wood)

I need to work on the frog design (planning for a low-angle / Norris style adjuster
I need to figure out the mouth design too because I believe it is critical to have the ability to close the mouth
(although there is an argument to reserve for another post... I have a wooden jointer plane with a mouth you could drive a truck through and I can pull a .001 shaving in long grain... #sharpfixeseverything)
I guess a good test would be to take it to task on end grain and see how it performs?

and finally I need to determine the handle design - I think I will simply make a "full-sized" handle (four finger grip, not three) and mount it to the sole (like the Veritas or Lie Nielsen )
 

striker

Stephen
Corporate Member
Unless you have a connection, you be into it for a few bucks for machining and grinding the angle iron.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Unless you have a connection, you be into it for a few bucks for machining and grinding the angle iron.
Right - I would machine it on my mill and try to flatten the sole as I would any other plane, sandpaper on granite. The question is, if I can maintain a 90 degree angle from the sole to the "working" side of the plane...
 

pop-pop

Man with many vises
User
Right - I would machine it on my mill and try to flatten the sole as I would any other plane, sandpaper on granite. The question is, if I can maintain a 90 degree angle from the sole to the "working" side of the plane...
Seems like one would flatten the sole first and reference off that surface on the milling machine.
 

striker

Stephen
Corporate Member
Right - I would machine it on my mill and try to flatten the sole as I would any other plane, sandpaper on granite. The question is, if I can maintain a 90 degree angle from the sole to the "working" side of the plane...
What is the length of it? May be longer than your mill travel in which case you have to reposition it. Just another monkey wrench to it. I think how you go about it depends on mill tooling you have available. Do you clamp it to the table and Conventional mill the side or face mill it? Maybe weld it to some known square blocks and cut um off afterwards.

Wondering how strong it will end being after you cut the blade mouth. May be better making a weldment out of it before machining.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
What is the length of it? May be longer than your mill travel in which case you have to reposition it. Just another monkey wrench to it. I think how you go about it depends on mill tooling you have available. Do you clamp it to the table and Conventional mill the side or face mill it? Maybe weld it to some known square blocks and cut um off afterwards.

Wondering how strong it will end being after you cut the blade mouth. May be better making a weldment out of it before machining.
I think rolled angle (1/4" thickness and would be stronger than a casting (like the Veritas or Lie Nielsen planes) so even with a slot out of the side of the plane it should remain sufficiently strong to the cutting motion forces... now dropping it on its nose... you are likely right, it might fold-up like an umbrella in a Texas snowstorm!
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Unless you just want to build a plane you could use A #5 Stanley with a shooting board as I do.
I have been - I have used a 5 and my 6 successfully, but I know the difference between my 78 and my 289 - it is dramatic...
IF I do this, it will be a low angle skew design...
 

mpeele

michael
User
Why not do a dove tail version? 1/4" bronze or cold rolled steel might give better results with less effort than hot rolled angle.
 

David Turner

David
Corporate Member
Hank: Go to YouTube and type in Stavros Gakos- shooting plane building process. Tells you everything you need to know.

David
 

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