Shed Material ??

[Gofor]

My neighbor wants to build a storage shed (about 10' x 10'). He asked me to do a rough estimate on costs but I have a couple questions on materials. If this goes well, I will also be building something similar (but probably larger) for myself:

#1: Some have posted they used Hardi Panel (Lowes is one source). Did you sheath under it? and does it require special fasteners? Other option would be T-11 or RB&B wood panels, all within a $1 or so of each other. If the Hardi panel requires sheathing, then cost of it will raise total panel price considerably. The maintenance factor would be in Hardi Panels advantage, and cost of primer/paint for the wood panels would probably be equal or more than OSB sheath. At present, no inside panels/sheetrock is planned.

#2: Flooring: I plan on 16"oc 2 x 6's for the base. The difference between Advantech and pine sturdifloor T & G is about $2 a sheet. Which would you use, or would you just go with the $12 sheet OSB subfloor ($6 to $8 cheaper per sheet; $24 - $32 cheaper for the 4 sheets required).

#3: Would you use OSB for the roof? Coming here from FL and hurricane coast, I am prejudiced against OSB, but that is what's on the roof of my house. He is considering a Gambrel roof. Cost difference would be $25 - $30 between OSB and 19/32 pine.

Any advice appreciated.

Go

And yes, I will be helping on the build. For free. (Hey, he's got a kegorator and a man-cave ccasion1 but also is a right fine person who helps others for free).

 

[Ray Martin]

I built a 14 X 16 shed for the garden stuff.

1.) I did normal framing for the walls and nailed T1-11 on to the 2 X 4s. That stuff does need to be nailed securely or it will warp. Given an adequate nail schedule, the T1-11 has worked fine. The shed has been up for years with no problem.

2.) I used 2 X 10s for the floor system covered with pressure treated ply. If I did it again, I'd use AdvanTech. I used a heavier than necessary floor because I knew I was going to park the garden tractor and loads of other heavy stuff in there.

3.) I used OSB for the roof deck, covered it with 15# felt and then shingles.

Hope this helps.

 

[Glennbear]

I have a 24x24 detached shop which is sided with LP Smart Side 4x8 panels. They cut with a standard circular saw blade and go up with a standard nail gun. No sheathing underneath required.
http://www.lpcorp.com/smartside/panel/ these panels are sold at the BORG.
The roof of my shop is OSB covered with asphalt shingles. The shop has held up well and I am quite pleased. I cannot offer a floor opinion since mine is a concrete slab.:wsmile:

 

[JackLeg]

Only thing I can comment on here is the Hardi Plank option. Our house was built in 1999 with Hardi Plank siding and trim. It was painted with ONE good coat, (no primer) and it still looks good.:icon_thum Coming up on 10 years without needing paint. I'm a big fan!

 

[merrill77]

I can only offer this: My house was built in 77 with T1-11 siding, stained. It go a fresh coat of stain sometime in the 90s (before we bought it) and looked fine as of last fall, when re-stained as part an overall freshen-up (new windows, updated trim, changed color, etc). Stuff seems to hold up real well.

 

[James Davis]

My storage shed has the LP Siding panels that Glenbear mentioned. It paints well and has held up for 4 years now. As for the roof sheathing, I would use OSB. Back when I was framing houses we got in a load of plywood and threw 50 sheets off the roof because of delamination. We went back and got OSB and I am yet to throw a piece off the roof because of problems with manufacturing (Now I have thrown a few sheets off because of measuring or cutting problems:rotflm The floor in my shed is Advantec and I like it fine. You can spend a lot of money in a building and have a nice building or you can try to save a little money on the same building and 95% of the people looking at it will never know the difference. You need to explain these differences to your neighbor and let him decide which way to go.

James

 

[Gofor]

...You can spend a lot of money in a building and have a nice building or you can try to save a little money on the same building and 95% of the people looking at it will never know the difference. You need to explain these differences to your neighbor and let him decide which way to go...James

First, thank you all for your info. Please keep it coming.

James: Hence the purpose of this thread. I am trying to give him the best info I can so he can make a good choice. I am unfamiliar with some of these products, and what experiences I have had with some (like OSB) have been tainted by their failure under extreme conditions. Therefore, I am here trying to learn more from the people that as a whole have established to me credibility in their knowledge and what they choose to advise others on. (NCWW :thumbs_up )

He has little experience with anything to do with construction other than doing tile work (which he is very good at). Mine is dated in some respects. He is wanting to build this shed because he is planning on moving his family to undeveloped property he owns in to Maine in the future, so he wants to develop the skills he will need when they get there. He also has a good friend that is a private contractor. However, for whatever reason, he asked me to design and give him a cost estimate for the shed. I have all idea, and will also advise him, to bounce whatever I come up with against his friend so that he can make the best decision.

The choice will be his. I just want to give him as objective an opinion as I can.

Thanks again

Go

 

[MrAudio815]

Hey Mark,

I read all that you wrote but didn't read all the others input.

I would definately go with Advantech. I bought a 12'X16' shed kit from Builders Discount center and am very pleased. Wel I got the 3/4" flooring cheaper press board stuff. And when I built my header for my 5' door with a friend, he put the header on the 2x4 and reached down to grab a hammer. Well he didn't get it on the 2x4 enough and it fell and hit the floor and put a nice big square hole on the floor. I ended up putting advantech over that floor. So I have about 1.5" thick of flooring. I only had to buy 2 pieces of 4x8 as when they built the house across the street, I had plenty of what they threw away. Mostly 2'x8' pieces of Advantech.


You can also upgrade the kit you buy at Builders discount center. I stuck with the original and it was $1,080 I think. And I didn't use half of the nails that came with the kit. As I got full 2-3" nails from when they built the house across the street, two 25lb buckets full and put up the shed in a much shorter time. (The nails in the cheap kit you hammer in, ouch your arm and wrist hurt after 12hrs of building).

Good luck, and I cna't wait to see what you & Neighbor make.

 

[ScottM]

Yes a coule thoughts. Many times you see shed that match the house in roof color, siding color and siding material. That might be a consideration.. Also do you need to include insulation and sheetrock of this shed or it is only being used for storage? Finally what kinda of door (prehung?) and are you adding windows?

 

[DaveD]

Sheds are like cars. Just like asking how much does a car cost. Here is one I did about 5 years ago. 12x12, About $2500 in material. Probably in the 'corvette' class of cars/sheds. Could have bought a el cheapo from the borg for 1/2 that. Could have got a slightly bigger one from Leonard buildings for about $2500 + delivery.

Its got a sturdy treated lumber 'deck' for a floor with 3/4" treated plywood decking. Walls are 16" on centers, stick built roof, T1-11 for siding, 2 windows, double door, tied down so it doesn't blow away, vented soffits/ridge.

 

[Sully]

I'm biased towards metal for the walls and roof. There are less maintenance issues, it comes in a variety of colors and is easy to install. I built a 12x16 shed for less than $1500 with 16" centers, 2x8 treated floor joists, 2x6 rafters, 2x4 studs with two rows of blocking, PT treated plywood for subfloor, topped with tar paper and then a layer of OSB. The roof was a layer of OSB, tar paper, and then metal. The walls are just metal with no sheathing underneath, but are rock solid with hurricane clips and blocking. Most of the materials--except the metal--had been gathered over about 6-8 months by pulling from the cull bin at Lowes, judicious yard sale patrols, buying on the cheap at auctions, and dumpster diving at the county dump. As my 6yr old son would say, "Dad, let's go to the dump and get some new trash." :rotflm:

 

[SGalley]

My neighbor wants to build a storage shed (about 10' x 10'). He asked me to do a rough estimate on costs but I have a couple questions on materials. If this goes well, I will also be building something similar (but probably larger) for myself:

#1: Some have posted they used Hardi Panel (Lowes is one source). Did you sheath under it? and does it require special fasteners? Other option would be T-11 or RB&B wood panels, all within a $1 or so of each other. If the Hardi panel requires sheathing, then cost of it will raise total panel price considerably. The maintenance factor would be in Hardi Panels advantage, and cost of primer/paint for the wood panels would probably be equal or more than OSB sheath. At present, no inside panels/sheetrock is planned.

On the walls of my shed/workshop, I put up sheathing and wrapped, then installed hardi panel. You have to countersink screw holes in the hardi panel.4x8 sheets are very heavy to put up, so I used a floor jack because I was by myself. It paints/caulks well though and will not rot unless it's kept in standing water. I also used vinyl trim (pricey, but worth it).

#2: Flooring: I plan on 16"oc 2 x 6's for the base. The difference between Advantech and pine sturdifloor T & G is about $2 a sheet. Which would you use, or would you just go with the $12 sheet OSB subfloor ($6 to $8 cheaper per sheet; $24 - $32 cheaper for the 4 sheets required).

Used pressure treated 4x6's on the cement footers that just sit on the ground. I ran pressure treated 2x6's on top of the 4x6's and then ran 2 hurricane traps over the 2x6's (You may need more depending on the size). Screwed pressure treated plywood (thickest I could get) on top.

#3: Would you use OSB for the roof? Coming here from FL and hurricane coast, I am prejudiced against OSB, but that is what's on the roof of my house. He is considering a Gambrel roof. Cost difference would be $25 - $30 between OSB and 19/32 pine.

Used sheathing, tar paper, and shingles for the roof.

The only thing nailed was the wall framing and the shingles, the rest is screws and bolts.

Any advice appreciated.

Go

And yes, I will be helping on the build. For free. (Hey, he's got a kegorator and a man-cave ccasion1 but also is a right fine person who helps others for free).

Have fun and he better be buying the beer:gar-Bi

 

[sapwood]

Eaves, large overhanging eaves :yes4lo:

My one regret on the prebuilt I purchased in 2001. The eaves only extend ~2" past past the walls :tinysmile_cry_t:

Roger

 

[SubGuy]

I think OSB for the roof and walls would be fine. I agree with using tar paper and Button caps. I also agree with shingles. I would recommend using Tyvek to wrap walls and make sure that you leave about a foot on the bottom to tie into the subfloor. As for the asthetic material on the outside of the wall:dontknow:, whatever he likes best. I would stay away from 4X8 Panels of wood, they can warp. Hardi Panel sounds good but that's mostly up to the owner and what he likes. Don't use treated in your walls or your roof structure, it's a waste of money. Standard studs and yellow pine will work fine. If you want to go the last forever route, go with metal roof. What type of foundation are you planning on using? Slab, Footing w/ crawl space, open, with or without piers? Will it be heated or cooled? Will you insulate? Electrical/Lighting?