Sharpening videos
- Thread starter Martin Roper
- Start date
I watched these the other day. I am sticking with my plan as it took me 40 years to get a system that works for me. I finish on my 16000 Shapton, though I agree the 8000 would probably be an overall better choice. Irons still get "green" strop on hard leather. Mostly just removing all traces of the burr. Carving tools get stropped ad-nauseum.
I saw the Katz Moses video a few days ago and found it very informative, his older sharpening videos are also very good. I've watched a lot of videos on sharpening and there's a lot of ways to get it done as he says. I definitely learned the most theory on sharpening from Leonard Lee's book "The Complete Guide to Sharpening." I have Ron Hock's "The Perfect Edge" on order as well and am awaiting its arrival currently.
Do what works for you. That's what I took away from it.
I also took away the idea that no matter how sharp you get tools initially, they all rapidly settle into a still-useful level of sharpness so how you get them sharp in the first place is less important than advocates of various systems claim. One less thing to worry about.
What I have learned from 20 years of working and teaching sharpening is that people spend too much time trying to get a perfect edge with poor methods and sloppy technique and then wait too long to refresh the edge.
Sharpen less more often.
Sharpen less more often.
I've always been a little disappointed with the edge I got from the Cosman system (what I currently use modified with honing guide). I guess I need to add a stropping step to that! It was fun to see the "science" behind this. One thing they did not cover was oil stones (Arkansas). I would assume similar results, but I've thought these might be easier for me to use in my shop since I do not have a good source for water. I've read that shaptons can be used with oil. Anyone try that? I guess once you try, you can't go back to water.
I still need to find a good system for re-establishing the primary. Right now, I use the worksharp 3000, but I am thinking about a grinder with CBN wheel and guide as a better option because the worksharp sometimes gets the bevel angle slightly off and have to re-true it to 90 on the diamond stone because otherwise my honing guide only works one side. Is anyone using the Tomek bench grinder post with the square-edge jig?
I still need to find a good system for re-establishing the primary. Right now, I use the worksharp 3000, but I am thinking about a grinder with CBN wheel and guide as a better option because the worksharp sometimes gets the bevel angle slightly off and have to re-true it to 90 on the diamond stone because otherwise my honing guide only works one side. Is anyone using the Tomek bench grinder post with the square-edge jig?
I use the Worksharp in my classes and found there is an adjustment to correct that off square condition.
Also buy diamond or CBN plates for the Worksharp and you won't need anything else.
Also buy diamond or CBN plates for the Worksharp and you won't need anything else.
I should have added that I have this problem for my #6 blade because it does not fit in the slot underneath the machine. I 3d-printed a wide-blade platform because they no longer offer this as an option, but the adjustment is finicky. I have the CBN wheels and they are good, but still take a while to fully grind the #6 blade flat again.
I wouldn't worry about a #6 being a little out of square.
It is not a finishing plane.
I have a lot of camber on mine for taking off lots of rough wood.
It is not a finishing plane.
I have a lot of camber on mine for taking off lots of rough wood.
Thanks Mike! Good point.
These would be better videos if these guys didn’t talk so fast. Is this because I’ve lived in NC for so long or because I’m so old?
I think the negative view of water stones is inaccurate. There are many water stones that don’t need soaking (Shapton professional is one, Naniwa is another): very little mess.
The Scary Sharp films require you to only use the pull stroke to sharpen. Water, Oil, or Diamond stones can be used in both directions.
I agree that the finest stones are unnecessary, and Chris Schwarz is with us here.
I think the graph showing longevity was interesting in that the PMV-11 not only stayed sharp longer, but showed some improvement with use. This is what Leonard Lee claimed when he introduced this steel.
No mention is made of the new ceramic stones from Norton. This is an interesting introduction from an industry leader,
Here’s a video from HNT Gordon, a plane maker from Australia, that I think is one of the best sharpening videos ever.
I think the negative view of water stones is inaccurate. There are many water stones that don’t need soaking (Shapton professional is one, Naniwa is another): very little mess.
The Scary Sharp films require you to only use the pull stroke to sharpen. Water, Oil, or Diamond stones can be used in both directions.
I agree that the finest stones are unnecessary, and Chris Schwarz is with us here.
I think the graph showing longevity was interesting in that the PMV-11 not only stayed sharp longer, but showed some improvement with use. This is what Leonard Lee claimed when he introduced this steel.
No mention is made of the new ceramic stones from Norton. This is an interesting introduction from an industry leader,
Here’s a video from HNT Gordon, a plane maker from Australia, that I think is one of the best sharpening videos ever.
A slow speed grinder with a CBN wheel is a good option if you choose to go another route. After comparing several models and reading their reviews, I went with the Bucktool 8" 2 speed grinder with their brand 80 grit 1.5" CBN wheel and it works great for my needs. I put a wire wheel on the left side for cleaning parts. The Wolverine tool rest is also helpful at keeping the iron steady/flat and helps draw heat away from the blade, the CBN wheel also helps there. I keep water close by but havent had an iron yet that I couldn't comfortably touch after grinding several passes, sometimes I still dunk it anyway just to be safe. Also works well for cambering blades like on a No. 6.
~Will
Do you find that 80 grit is too coarse? I was thinking about going for 180 grit or even finer CBN so I would not have to hone out as many deep scratches. But maybe will just stick with the worksharp.
Hi Roland,
The 80 grit wheel cuts fast and it leaves an edge more refined than you'd expect. I go from the grinder straight to honing a micro bevel on a 1000x water stone, about 30 swipes then I'm ready to move on to 4000x, 8000x etc.
Check out this video, skip to about the 4 min mark for the part on grinding for woodworking. He recommends a more course stone first but I haven't really found that to be needed unless I made an error grinding, in which case it's just faster to go back to the grinder to correct it.
~Will
The 80 grit wheel cuts fast and it leaves an edge more refined than you'd expect. I go from the grinder straight to honing a micro bevel on a 1000x water stone, about 30 swipes then I'm ready to move on to 4000x, 8000x etc.
Check out this video, skip to about the 4 min mark for the part on grinding for woodworking. He recommends a more course stone first but I haven't really found that to be needed unless I made an error grinding, in which case it's just faster to go back to the grinder to correct it.
~Will
Mike sharpening a lathe chisel in his shop
