When faced with having to cut 600 short (1.75") pieces from 1.5" x 1.5" planed poplar stock, here is the stop block I used. It retracks so the short piece can't rotate and get grabbed by the blade. It took about 30 minutes to make form scraps around the shop.
It uses the right edge of the sled as the datum to set the cutoff length. A curved rail/track of scrap cherry about 1/8" thick and 3/4" wide bent as shown pushes the stop against the fence when the fence is away from blade and the workpiece is being loaded and allows a spring to retract the block as the fence is pushed to the blade. The spring is held in place by 1/2" dowel rod - use whatever size dowel that fits your spring. The right end of the block has a 1/4" stainless rod inset into it to act as a static bearing to ride on the cherry rail. The spring is tensioned by a scrap piece clamped to the sled fence. Note the wedge used for the cherry rail - this provides a little pre-stressing. The arrow on the blue tape is the max forward position the bearing can be and still properly seat the stop block.
Hope this helps someone needing to (safely) cut short pieces.
It uses the right edge of the sled as the datum to set the cutoff length. A curved rail/track of scrap cherry about 1/8" thick and 3/4" wide bent as shown pushes the stop against the fence when the fence is away from blade and the workpiece is being loaded and allows a spring to retract the block as the fence is pushed to the blade. The spring is held in place by 1/2" dowel rod - use whatever size dowel that fits your spring. The right end of the block has a 1/4" stainless rod inset into it to act as a static bearing to ride on the cherry rail. The spring is tensioned by a scrap piece clamped to the sled fence. Note the wedge used for the cherry rail - this provides a little pre-stressing. The arrow on the blue tape is the max forward position the bearing can be and still properly seat the stop block.
Hope this helps someone needing to (safely) cut short pieces.