Self-closing glue bottle?
- Thread starter pop-pop
- Start date
Gee, isn't leaving it open and gummed up self closing? It is the opening that is the problem. 
Side comment, Wood By Write has quite a test on glues. When I use up all my fancy over-priced and not actually weatherproof Titebonds, switching to basic cheap PVA. I still have resin , hide and CA where needed. I was surprised CA degrades over time.
Side comment, Wood By Write has quite a test on glues. When I use up all my fancy over-priced and not actually weatherproof Titebonds, switching to basic cheap PVA. I still have resin , hide and CA where needed. I was surprised CA degrades over time.
That vertical grain pine is amazing. That panel should be particularly stable.
I carry a pocket Leatherman tool. At least 50% of its use is dealing with glue bottle caps.
I carry a pocket Leatherman tool. At least 50% of its use is dealing with glue bottle caps.
OP
OP
Picked from the SYP 2x12 pile at Homer's. I look for a tight grained piece with the pith, "cut the pith out of it", and rejoin as shown.
Sometimes I will bandsaw rip along the grain if the grain slants too much.
Coincidence brought me here to post a glue-related question and what do I first see but a bottle of the same glue I'm looking to get some help; information; feedback about:
I want to transfer the glue I've had a while into the new Glubot I got a while back because the old GluBot body developed a crack where you squeeze it and now the glue exits over my thumb.
As you might expect from such a container of Titebond sitting alone on a shelf all Winter, things have gotten a bit slow to flow.
I was wondering if I might improve things by adding a quantity of warm, warmer, or even hot water and shake things up a bit?
Any suggestions?
Thanks (;harles
Yea, PVA does not like to be frozen. It also has an open shelf life. Data is available somewhere.
My glue-bot gums up just as quickly. IMHE, the Titebond bottles are worse than the Elmers bottles. Inner plunger is not long enough. They should make is 1 or 2 mm longer. I keep a dental pick on the tool cart for glue bottles.
My glue-bot gums up just as quickly. IMHE, the Titebond bottles are worse than the Elmers bottles. Inner plunger is not long enough. They should make is 1 or 2 mm longer. I keep a dental pick on the tool cart for glue bottles.
Write the new date on the bottle with a felt tipped marker. That way it is easier than trying to decipher the date code. Replace after a year as a precaution.
I like that dental pick method.
I like that dental pick method.
Good idea, but I doubt it is air tight enough. If you used it every day it might just work. I have about concluded the dollar store catchup bottles are as good as any. Just keep them half full and you don't have to shake them. Easier to clean the top.
I have some somewhere - I just can't find it!You all should just switch to hide glue.
As to my issue and Pop Pop's comment re: 'dark glue at bottom,' I do beleive that was an optickle delusion.
I (did add a little HOT water last night - maybe half an ounce) turned it upside down this morning and it pretty much all flowed out into the GluBot(tle) - and thence onto the stair treads I am rebuilding (long - fooled me once- story).
While I was applying the Titebond (we hope), It occurred to me that Pop Pop and others might have more experience in Glue-ups than I and if he and Creasman, Curtis, & Scott, etc. could be video'd doing this project or the other just during their Glue-ups, the result might be a valuable YouTube video or even a marketable DVD: NC Woodworker Guide to GlueUp
There are, apparently, as many ways to skin a cat as there are to glue it back. And, if we can find the hidden glue, maybe as many varieties of adhesive.
We could include ways of removing the glue from one's fingers, dental picking the dried stuff out of the applicators; wiping fingers on jeans, rag, paper toweling; maybe a few tips on storing as well.
I had a GluBot that got the small ('delivery'?) tube pretty clogged up with dried and hardened wood glue. I tried boiling hot water. It worked! Then my dental pick was able to catch & remove long sections of the congealed glue - a rinse up in soapy water had the Glubot(tle) in tip top shape. I sent it (w/pictures) to the company as a tip and wound up with a small collection of their products gratis.
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I never buy glue in large containers, because it goes bad over Winter, now that I don't frequent the shop as often as I used to. as I no longer heat the shop all Winter. I now buy the amount that I will expect to use before the next Winter, and then just replace them in the Spring.
Glu Bot bottles work well, and even reduce, but not eliminate, the drying out problem if left uncapped for a few days, but can really get gummed up if you leave the cap off a long time. I do use them for the glue most frequently used though, so there is less time spent to get the glue on the work piece. Bottom feed is a significant help in their design..
Charley
Glu Bot bottles work well, and even reduce, but not eliminate, the drying out problem if left uncapped for a few days, but can really get gummed up if you leave the cap off a long time. I do use them for the glue most frequently used though, so there is less time spent to get the glue on the work piece. Bottom feed is a significant help in their design..
Charley
Charlie:
There are 2wo caps on a GluBot(tle). Neither of which need be removed in use. The one is the large (1.5" diameter?) fill cap with an internal washer to help seal the container's large (what would one call it?) that holds the majority of the glue. It is only removed to fill/refill the bottle and must be closed tightly for the GluBot(tle)s hydraulic design to function.
The second cap actually has a big (well proportionately so) hole in it into which is fitted a dispensing nozzle with an integral sealing washer. This nozzle has a relatively tiny oval aperture about the size of the smallest usb-c connector, or there is one with a truly tiny opening (maybe 1/16" dia or even less).
These openings are covered when the GluBot(tle)'s not at work with a little red condom attached to the neck of the dispensing opening with an integral leash or anchoring strap.
Thus, with the exception of those failing to practice safe glue up, leaving the business end uncovered and exposed to the Winter's elements, neither opening is likely left open when the device is used appropriately.
Charles
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OP
OP
Came across an old Titebond cap that I had saved. It was a silly millimeter longer.
Just think of all of the money they saved!
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"a cheap thermostat"
I am interested in a similar setup - which thermostat controller are you using?
What temp do you maintain?
Curious, do the little Dorm Fridges have a light installed that illuminates when one opens the door? (Like the Big Ones do?)
I am interested in a similar setup - which thermostat controller are you using?
What temp do you maintain?
Curious, do the little Dorm Fridges have a light installed that illuminates when one opens the door? (Like the Big Ones do?)
If I understand, you have the bulb in the Keyless and the thermostat all inside the dorm fridge.
I've been using a "DIGITEN WTC100 Wireless Thermostat Outlet Digital Temperature Controller Plug-in Thermostat Cooling" in the box I use to raise chicks and it is frustrating me. In no small part because the translations from the Chinese into what passes for 'English' don't - as the saying goes, speak to me.
I use something similar (mounted on the wall near the door) to control a base board heater mounted on the floor under the bathroom window. I think I might try one in the chicken brooder. Mined switches a 220VAC line to the heater and has a digital temperature display of current and set temps. (Also Honeywell BTW).
I wonder if a similar setup could be used in the well housing during the Winter. Currently, I use a Thermocube (Model TC-3: Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees) and a string of incandescent C7 "Christmas" bulbs.
Thanks for the feedback
I've been using a "DIGITEN WTC100 Wireless Thermostat Outlet Digital Temperature Controller Plug-in Thermostat Cooling" in the box I use to raise chicks and it is frustrating me. In no small part because the translations from the Chinese into what passes for 'English' don't - as the saying goes, speak to me.
I use something similar (mounted on the wall near the door) to control a base board heater mounted on the floor under the bathroom window. I think I might try one in the chicken brooder. Mined switches a 220VAC line to the heater and has a digital temperature display of current and set temps. (Also Honeywell BTW).
I wonder if a similar setup could be used in the well housing during the Winter. Currently, I use a Thermocube (Model TC-3: Thermostatically Controlled Outlet - On at 35-Degrees/Off at 45-Degrees) and a string of incandescent C7 "Christmas" bulbs.
Thanks for the feedback
