Sawstop brake activation

[Reference Handiwork]

They also have an adjustment procedure if you are having problems getting enough clearance. I had my dado brake fire the same way and couldn't get enough clearance and they sent me the attached procedure. I also had one fire because the miter was too close. Now I always run it past the blade with the saw off and look for the red light before cutting.

OMG, an unnecessary dado brake fire would be (financially) devastating. Don't want to think about that!

 

[tvrgeek]

Of course, a dado cut would be one of the times I would turn off the sensor. If a false trigger is financially devastating, I might suggest a different endeavor.

I am considering making an over-head guard. The ones for sale are way overpriced and none look to be convenient enough one would use. I like some of the counter-balanced floating ones I have seen.

To think of the things we used to do. Dados and molding heads on a RAS because the Craftsman manual and books said we could. I still see some scary stuff on U-tube on the TS, router, and jointers.

 

[Reference Handiwork]

Of course, a dado cut would be one of the times I would turn off the sensor. If a false trigger is financially devastating, I might suggest a different endeavor.

I am considering making an over-head guard. The ones for sale are way overpriced and none look to be convenient enough one would use. I like some of the counter-balanced floating ones I have seen.

To think of the things we used to do. Dados and molding heads on a RAS because the Craftsman manual and books said we could. I still see some scary stuff on U-tube on the TS, router, and jointers.

My margins, financially, are right now a little thin. Just saying that it would really hurt to lose a dado stack AND a dado brake in one moment.

I hear you! I treat my 12" sliding miter saw like it's trying to kill me. I can't imagine running dados on a RAS! But I can imagine a situation life in which I entertained the idea because it was the tool I paid for and owned at the moment!

 

[Michael D Edwards]

Hey folks, I realize after the feedback, that I remembered two saws as one…or what ever senior moment that’s called. Nonetheless neither of them measured up to anything I wanted. The owner of the shop just couldn’t stop buying “the latest and greatest” crap. The foundation
of our shop was a large CNC router. Man we had a steep learning curve with that screaming banshee!
Ref‘s comment made me think of my first major tool. A Shopsmith; I used a Craftsman Wobbling dado set on it, now that was scary! I did like it for horizontal boring and as a lathe. But as a table saw, I was afraid of it.

 

[Rspanos]

I have had mine activate with a Forrest WWII and Forrest was able to full repair the blade so hopefully the same will be true for you as well.

 

[charlessenf]

I have a SawStop... 3hp PCS.
I had to wait, 11 months and 2 weeks, before I had 220 ran for it (moved and while my new house was being built, the saw was in climate controlled storage for 9 months). As soon as I had the electrician install my sub-panel, I turned on the saw and nothing but RED flashing light.... For a few seconds... the red light stopped, and the only light on was the Green light. I rejoiced, flipped the paddle, and WHAM!!! Blade didn't even turn and the brake engaged. Nothing was on the table, nothing was touching the blade, the saw was brand new and had never ran before. Boy was I "ticked!"

Contacted SS the next day, 2 months of back and forth (troubleshooting), replacing a brake cartridge ribbon cable (with 1 hand, due to 3rd degree burns from my smoker).. Used a paperclip to jumper the port on the side to get error codes, PDFs sent to me for numerous things they wanted me to try. They sent me out an arbor block, which meant I had to remove the entire table top.. Umm, yeah. Told SS my 1 hand had 3rd degree burns on it and there was no way in H3LL that I could do that. They tried to get a tech out to my house, but the nearest tech was over 4 hours (if I recall) away. Then, they tried to get me to load the saw on a truck, which I don't have/own... and drive it to a techs location. "Umm, who is paying for the truck rental, mileage, gas, my personal time, etc.?"

After all of the videos I sent them, pictures, hours on the phone, replacement of the brake cartridge ribbon cable, and jumping through hoops...

They had the nerve to charge me a New Saw core fee, $2,500.. asked me to box up the bad saw, sent a replacement saw, and then they had a company pick up the saw (on their dime)... then I assembled the replacement saw, MONTHS later.. due to my 3rd degree burns...then crossed my fingers, plugged in the power cord... and 1st try... POWER AND GREEN LIGHT!!

I dealt with Trent Davis, 1 other tech, and Alex Gumpel... Even though they didn't want to take the saw back, their great customer service told them they had to.

I am not sure what the problem is, with your saw, but I hope it is nothing as severe as the issue I had with my SS.

Also... from Trent Davis.. the gap between the blade and brake doesn't have to be 100% accurate.


Hope all is well with your saw and you can get back to making sawdust asap!


Rory

Wow! Thanks for sharing! Think I'll hang on to my 2 year old Craftsman and be careful!