Rust Removal Tests
- Thread starter patlaw
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Good video. I use heat when I can. I'm surprised the trans and acetone did very little??
For the rust removers, his results on Evaporust mirror mine: Good rust removal but remaining spots of black passivated iron oxide in the deeper pits/heavy areas. My experience with the naval gel is that it has to be kept wet, and you have to use a lot of agitation (i.e. a lot of wire brushing to continually expose fresh rust). I was able to successfully use it to remove a lot of heavy rust off my lawn mower deck (something I could not submerge), but is can get expensive quickly. Had to cover the areas with saran wrap to keep them from drying out during the dwell times.
Looking at the MDS on the Eastmans, it appears to be mainly urea hydrochloride. Expensive, but does look like it hits the heavier rust better. Had not heard of it before. Wonder if you could just submerge something in a hog farm lagoon (PHEW!!)
As for the penetrating fluids, liquid wrench has been my go-to for many years (at least 50, LOL), although I have also used PB Blaster with some success. While I was in the military, one of the better things we found was the mil-spec jet engine oil.
Thanks for the links.
Go
Looking at the MDS on the Eastmans, it appears to be mainly urea hydrochloride. Expensive, but does look like it hits the heavier rust better. Had not heard of it before. Wonder if you could just submerge something in a hog farm lagoon (PHEW!!)
As for the penetrating fluids, liquid wrench has been my go-to for many years (at least 50, LOL), although I have also used PB Blaster with some success. While I was in the military, one of the better things we found was the mil-spec jet engine oil.
Thanks for the links.
Go
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As for the penetrating fluids, liquid wrench has been my go-to for many years (at least 50, LOL), although I have also used PB Blaster with some success. While I was in the military, one of the better things we found was the mil-spec jet engine oil.
If you liked the mil-spec, you can get the same results or darn close with Mobil 1. I was in the jet engine test business in the AF and I got to go down to the oil sample lab at least once a month. Found out some interesting stuff. With all the unused oil tht was collected out in Kirtland AFB, NM we managed to put it to some use at the Auto Hobby Shop.
My results with the Acetone-Trans fluid were quite different than his. In the end, I use the heat/torch most of the time.
If you liked the mil-spec, you can get the same results or darn close with Mobil 1. I was in the jet engine test business in the AF and I got to go down to the oil sample lab at least once a month. Found out some interesting stuff. With all the unused oil tht was collected out in Kirtland AFB, NM we managed to put it to some use at the Auto Hobby Shop.
My results with the Acetone-Trans fluid were quite different than his. In the end, I use the heat/torch most of the time.
Vinegar will remove light rust. Most important! After vinegar, WD-40 to lift that acid off. Then some type of protective covering.
Pop
Pop
By the way, how long should I leave the vinegar on the table top? Should I soak a rag with it? Cover it with plastic?
Mike, "patina"? If you are noticing a dull grey "patina" I would simply apply some paste wax. It won't make the surface look shinny new, but it does remove surface oxidation as well as provide some protection.
Why? Water/acid on cast iron is not something I would do unless the situation is really bad. While you may have good results, you could easily end up with a situation that looks worse than what you started with. My choice would be to keep the top dry (sand it) and then protect with application of a product that is non-corrosive (wax).
What I use and think works great is exhaust pipe cleaner for my motorcylce. The stuff that removes the bluing on your pipes from heat and at the same time protects it with wax. Now this isn't for a ton of rust but just the surface stuff on a tablesaw top sitting in the garage or something like that.
Jeff I never tried what you describe on my old bike pipes??
72 Norton Commando with blue head curves.
This is a British Triumph Bonneville 650. Don't know if you were aware but both pistons on the Bonne and the Commando go up and down side by side here.
I don't have a good furniture lock made of brass with iron/steel screws but here is a patchbox with heat blued screws. No rust on these screws down the road and none found on the original rifle from southwestern Virginia.
Could you recommend a brand and a source? Searching for "exhaust pipe cleaner" brings up a lot of different results.
If the acid solution gets down into the mating surfaces between top and wings, or up into crevices on the miter slot, it will cause more serious corrosion. Same if it gets in between the front or back rail/screws, or runs off onto the underside of the table/wings. Anything acidic on cast iron needs to be thoroughly rinsed, and/or passivated (neutralized with baking soda/etc), or rust will redevelop very quickly. For your saw top, you may want to use metal polish. It does have oxalic acid in it, but in a thick liquid form is easier to control and remove.
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