Router-Table Push Pad

[KC7CN]

This past month I have been building jigs - here's another one!

A new method of putting my name & date on projects.



Check photo details if are interested in how it's made:
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=32775&nocache=1

More to come later....

-Don

 

[Takarin]

Looks solid. What does this jig do for you? (Sorry if it's obvious... I'm still new!)

 

[Bas]

Looks good Don. Let me guess - you attach small work pieces to the fence so you can flush trim/ roundover/ dado them?

I like the idea of making a recess for a name label. I may have to combine this with Ernie's method of applying a finish over paper. I have one of those cheap $15 Brother label makers. You can get it with white and clear tape. With the clear tape and a shallow recess, I should be able to make a nice, unobtrusive maker's mark. And once the finish is applied (shellac, poly), it'll never move.

 

[bluthart]

Your jig looks better than the projects I make!

 

[fergy]

And it's a right-angle jig for things such as cutting the ends of the rails for cope and stick joinery, I'm betting. So much more elegant than trying to keep a square block of wood in place while holding the rail.

 

[KC7CN]

Looks solid. What does this jig do for you? (Sorry if it's obvious... I'm still new!)

Hi Takarin, this jig is used on a router table to keep the stock square to the fence, and provide a sacrificial backing board to minimize tear out. The Push-Pad slides along the fence for reference; note there is no miter track guid rail on this jig.

As Fergy stated above - cutting the ends of the rails for cope and stick joinery is a good example. The spinning router bit tends move the stock on end cuts - the jig provides additional control and adds a measure of safety. In some cases I will use a Quick-Grip clamp to secure the stock to the Push-Pad fence.

This is one of those jig you only think about when you need one :eusa_thin.

-Don

 

[KC7CN]

Looks good Don. Let me guess - you attach small work pieces to the fence so you can flush trim/ roundover/ dado them?

I like the idea of making a recess for a name label. I may have to combine this with Ernie's method of applying a finish over paper. I have one of those cheap $15 Brother label makers. You can get it with white and clear tape. With the clear tape and a shallow recess, I should be able to make a nice, unobtrusive maker's mark. And once the finish is applied (shellac, poly), it'll never move.

Good guess Bas! The label maker is a good idea! I did that several years ago, but that machine is long gone; ran out of tape and could'nt find any to buy. I was looking for something that was relatively easy to do. If you try this method be sure to put the label on after the finish; DAMHIKT :eusa_doh:.

-Don

 

[Takarin]

Hi Takarin, this jig is used on a router table to keep the stock square to the fence, and provide a sacrificial backing board to minimize tear out. The Push-Pad slides along the fence for reference; note there is no miter track guid rail on this jig.

As Fergy stated above - cutting the ends of the rails for cope and stick joinery is a good example. The spinning router bit tends move the stock on end cuts - the jig provides additional control and adds a measure of safety. In some cases I will use a Quick-Grip clamp to secure the stock to the Push-Pad fence.

This is one of those jig you only think about when you need one :eusa_thin.

-Don

Ahh, I see it now. I have push pads for my router table, but they are just a block of wood with rubber grip pads glued to the bottom. I wasn't thinking about small pieces. Duh.

You're right - this is one of those 'man, I wish I had a...' ideas. Good work!

 

[Bas]

If you try this method be sure to put the label on after the finish; DAMHIKT :eusa_doh:.

Hmm, I was thinking about putting the finish over the label, to protect it. Given the quality of printer ink, or rather the lack thereof, it would fade within 20-25 years. So why not put the finish over it, does it make the ink run?

 

[KC7CN]

Hmm, I was thinking about putting the finish over the label, to protect it. Given the quality of printer ink, or rather the lack thereof, it would fade within 20-25 years. So why not put the finish over it, does it make the ink run?

The steps I used was to apply double-sided carpet tape to the back of the printed label, and transparent shipping tape over the printed side ( to cover the ink). The recessed slot provides a pocket to protect the edges of the label from catching on anything. When I applied the label before finish, on one project, the wipe-on Poly soaked into the label. Not pretty! I'm sure there's a better method, but this works for now! A custom branding tool would be nice, but there's no date with this method.

You might be able to finish over the label from your label maker! Might be an easier/better way to do it!

-Don