roller guides vs. metal vs. composite Delta 14" band saw?

[kooshball]

I plan on replacing the metal blade guides in my saw with the cool blocks but I still very interested in the retro-fit roller bearing systems. I have seen the Carter type which is a full replacement of the guide system and expensive but I have also seen less expensive options where the bearing is simply mounted inside what would have been the metal guide block.

Is there a significant difference between the cool blocks and the built in bearing type? How about the Carter system; does it justify its price?

Thanks

 

[robliles]

David,

I have used cool blocks and upgraded to the full Carter system several years ago. I do like the roller bearings as you can set it to really close tolerances. However, as you point out, cool blocks; $15.00, Carter guides; $170.00. Wow, that is some difference. As you also point out, you can get a bearing guide system that fits into the existing Delta guide for around $75.00. If you can swing it, I really think you will like the bearing system best. Good luck with this.

Rob Liles

 

[bob vaughan]

The point of two tangent circles is way, way less than the 1/2" worth of support you get with the high carbon steel guides that are original. Two tangent rollers against the blade become sawdust embossers. That's the type I've got on my 20" bandsaw and they can be a major nuisance at times.

Non-steel side guides: the harder the steel, the slicker the sliding. I tested various mediums once. Wood, Phule Blox, and other things against steel. I had a pinching device on the two guides against a 1/2" fine tooth metal cutting blade for maximum contact. Everything raised the motor drag about 2 amps ± except steel. That was hardly measurable.

Its your money, but those are observable and provable facts.

Most any guide works ok enough, and none will make as big of a difference in sawing performance as a sharp blade. Its the teeth on the blade that do the cutting.

 

[junquecol]

Listen to what Bob says. But if want to, you can make your own version of "Cool Blocks," using some scraps of hardwood. Total cost almost nothing, satisfaction - Priceless. You can "bury the blade" in them, but remember you can also take out the set from the teeth.

 

[bob vaughan]

Forgot an important detail about the non-ferrous side guide blocks. The setscrews that hold them make a crater in the softer materials and that includes bronze like is found on the Atlas 912. When time comes to adjust side to side, the setscrew goes right back into the crater and the guides are where they were before you tried to adjust. Rotating the guides helps, but you've got three rotations after the original, and then its time to do something. Of course the angled bottom guide on the better bandsaws only give you two rotations.

Early on, Phule Blox advertised that they kept the blade cooler and thus make the blade last longer. It was pointed out that to get a blade's steel hot enough to damage its molecular structure, one would have to go well beyond the point where sawdust would ignite. The heat issue is bogus sales hype.

The original Delta guides are as good as guides need to be. I've even modified a bracket to put Delta hardened steel side guides on my Powermatic wood cutting 14" bandsaw.

"Upgrade" and "spending more money" aren't always inclusive.

 

[Ozzie-x]

I had the cool blocks on my 14" Delta and was not impressed I now have the carter roller guides and they are great with the 1/2" blade I normally run.

 

[Glennbear]

My Craftsman saw came with roller guides and I have been very pleased with the performance and adjustability. Normally I keep them 1/32" off the blade, the added benefit is that if I can see them spinning without any material being sawn I know that something is awry and I need to adjust. :wsmile:

 

[Gofor]

For about $5, you can get a small piece of cocobola from Klingspor's scrap bin that make excellent blocks for a small blade. Rollers work well except for resinous woods like pine, which will load up on the rollers (as well as transfer to the wheels and tires) and build up on the blade. DNA will clean it off easily, but the friction will heat the blade as well as cause the rollers to start squeeling.

With rollers, you will have to adjust them forward/back every time you change blade width or gullet depth. With wood, the teeth will cut a kerf instead of flattening the teeth (which rollers will do) if they are set too far forward, so it minimizes the need for adjusting if you change blade widths a lot. (you will still need to adjust the back stop bearing, tho.)

JMTCW

Go

 

[cpowell]

For about $5, you can get a small piece of cocobola from Klingspor's scrap bin that make excellent blocks for a small blade. Rollers work well except for resinous woods like pine, which will load up on the rollers (as well as transfer to the wheels and tires) and build up on the blade. DNA will clean it off easily, but the friction will heat the blade as well as cause the rollers to start squeeling.

With rollers, you will have to adjust them forward/back every time you change blade width or gullet depth. With wood, the teeth will cut a kerf instead of flattening the teeth (which rollers will do) if they are set too far forward, so it minimizes the need for adjusting if you change blade widths a lot. (you will still need to adjust the back stop bearing, tho.)

JMTCW

Go

+1

I went that route for small blade support on my MM16 BS. I bought a stick of LV (lignum vitae) to use for the guide. I made a demo version first using scrap padauk (another oily hard wood). The padauk has worked so well I still have not upgraded to the LV.

I have seen examples of this approach using Delta type blocks and Euro style guides.

I don't use this approach on wider resaw blades - the standard Euro guides work very well for me. But on narrow blades (< 1/4 inch) the wood blocks are great.


Chuck