Rikon 10-325 First Report

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Ken Massingale

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Ken
I've had the Rikon 10-325 14" bandsaw for almost 2 weeks and would like to post my first impressions and report how the saw does or does not live up to the manufacturer's specs. This won't be a complete review, I may do that after more time with the saw.

I suppose the first question would be, does the 1 1/2hp motor really have what it takes to fullfill the 13" resaw capacity in the specs? I couldn't immediately lay hands on a 13" chunk of stock, so a 10"+ diameter block of Cherry, 18" long had to do for the test. This Cherry has been air drying for over a year and spalting has started on the exterior.
The BladeRunner II blades had not arrived from Iturra so I initially used a 3 TPI Timberwolf blade.

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I am using a bandsaw jig from a recent issue of Wood Magazine.

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The jig rides in the miter slot of the bandsaw table.
I made several cuts at 7/8", several at 5/8" and then at ~1/16".

These will be nice bookmatches when finished.

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~1/16" veneers that need conditioned, stacked and pressed.

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I had problems with the 1/16" slicing with the Timberwolf blade and stopped after ruining 2 slices. The BladeRunner II's arrived and I proceeded testing the saw.

On the Cherry with the BladeRunner blades the saw didn't act like it knew it was sawing 10" stock. I could not feed fast enough to hear any loading on the saw. On all cuts the slices were within a few thousand's top/bottom and end-to-end.
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A 46" long piece of Cedar, 10" dia. on one end and 9" dia. on the other end had been tempting me since the LOML treated me to the Rikon. Yesterday I asked Tina if she would help me resaw it. I attached a piece of ply to one side to stabilize it against rolling on the saw table.

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We brought it into the shop and readied it and ourselves for the task.

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After freehand sawing it was obvious this was not the right way to do this. We were not able to get straight flat sides to ride on. After screwing up a couple of pieces (planer will fix them) we finally got an acceptable surface to ride on.

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The resulting stock.

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I won't do any more long stock until I make infeed/outfeed tables with miter slots matching those in the BS table, and a long version of the Wood jig, that's for sure.
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As for the saw, I am completely satisfied. It surpasses my expections.
A point about the blades. I had changed the stock blade with the TW first thing. I had concerns about the quality of the cut and noise in the saw. I called Rikon and explained my concern and was immediately asked if I was using a TW blade. First the tech told me that TW makes their blades 3/8" (I think I'm remembering the amount correctly) longer than the spec size, making the tension adjustment way off. He also suggested forgetting the 'flutter test' and setting for 1/4" deflection. Then on the noise, he asked me to check the weld, suspecting it was offset. The weld was terrible and he wasn't surprised.
I have been an advocate of TW blades except for resawing, but am now having doubts about their quality. There are threads elsewhere that express the same concern. When I installed the BladeRunner blade the cut quality went up dramatically and the noise was gone.

So, I am very happy with the Rikon and have no reservations about the purchase, I highly recommend it.
ken
 

DavidF

New User
David
Where do you get the bladerunner blades Ken?

I was also an advocate of TW blades, but not so sure now. My last one seemed to dull so quickly. I am going to be resawing some 6" high QSWO with my 3 TPI TW blade and that will probably be the last time I buy those. General opinion is to go for the lennox bimetal.
 

Ken Massingale

New User
Ken
David,
The Bladerunners are the same as the Woodslicer from Highland, but $20 instead of $30. As far as I know they are only available from Iturra Design, 866-883-8064.
I've read that some users think they dull faster than Timberwolves (used to), but in my months of using them I find they last longer.
I haven't tried the Lennox high end blades---yet.
Iturra has these Lennox blades also, I'll use the 111" size as an example:

Promaster II M42 HSS BI-Metal-----$37
Promaster III Carbide Tipped -------$125

For those that don't have the Iturra catalog, I suggest getting one, it's not a catalog, it's a wealth of bandsaw history and technology.

ken
 

Travis Porter

Travis
Corporate Member
I figured the 1 1/2 HP would zing through the stuff. Glad to hear it has worked out for you.

As for blades, Suffolk Machinery is hard to beat and when you call, they specifically ask what you are going to be doing and recommend the type and sizes of blades. I definitely recommend going with them.

If you can swing and swallow the cost, a carbide tipped blade is a thing of wonder. I got one for my MM, and I would have never believed the difference in the way it cuts. The price put me in sticker shock (over $250 for my saw), but it will out last more than the number of standard blades I would use for the same price.

Funny, the first thing I did when I overhauled my Delta and when I got my MM was to try it out resawing. It is an amazing thing when you can make 2 boards out of one.:eusa_danc
 
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