Removing poly varnish....

[pslamp32]

Some of you might remember these tables I made last year....

Well, my 4 year old has done a real number with them. The tops are completely dented and scratched up. I want to remove the poly and start over. Whats the best chemical or process for doing this. Thanks!

 

[McRabbet]

Peter, my advice would be to remove the tops from the metal frames and to sand them down to remove the finish. I'm not a big fan of most strippers since they are pretty potent and not the best for the environment if not disposed of properly -- I'd don my best face mask and use a hand-held belt sander with about 40 to 50 grit belts (I even have some 24 grit that I've used in some cases). If your son has distressed the tops enough, you'll need to get down far enough to remove those pock marks as well as the finish. Once the worst is done, move up to 80 then 120 and change over to a RO sander to get to 220 before refinishing. Faster and less smelly that stripper and scrapers. My .02

 

[Howard Acheson]

A chemical stripper containing methylene chloride is what you want. Strippers containing MC will work the best to strip poly. It will work the fastest and do the most complete job. Zip Strip is a brand you can find fairly readily.

 

[pslamp32]

Thanks guys. I think I read in my Flexner book that it's best not to sand because the heat produced can cause adverse effects.

Can I find Zip Strip at Ace or the Borgs or do I need to go to a specialty shop. Thanks!

 

[pslamp32]

How do you keep from destroying the wood?

edit - Ok, sorry, cabinet scraper. I was thinking you were talking about one of those huge metal scraper thingies.

 

[JackLeg]

That soy product should work on that and it's "green." Let me know if you try it.

 

[jmauldin]

I agree on the MC. Sanding would be the last option. There are several brands of stripper out there. Kleen Kutter (liquid, not semi-paste is what I use). I used MC stripper, bought in 55 gal drums, for years when I did such. Yes, it is potent stuff, but it is water soluble. Just don't breathe the fumes. By the way, have GOOD ventilation -the fumes are HEAVIER than air and will sink to the floor, rather than rise to the ceiling. A good squirrel cage fan on the floor will take care of the fumes. Or do it outside. After stripping take a power washer and wash it off. Let dry overnight, then proceed with finishing just as you would with a new piece.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[pslamp32]

That soy product should work on that and it's "green." Let me know if you try it.

??? :dontknow:

 

[Gofor]

What Jim Mauldin said about the MC. Also, wear good rubber gloves and EYE Protection. If you tear a glove and some gets inside, take off the glove and rinse thoroughly. (I used to strip acft with the stuff, and the powers that be made us wear rubber rain suits. Problem was the MC dissolved the glue at the seams and would get inside, which burned us even worse than when we did it with shorts and T-shirts with a hose handy.) First aid is water and plenty of it, so have a hose handy.

Go

 

[McRabbet]

Peter,

Here is a reference you might want to read before you proceed. Sorry, I'm just not keen on strippers, especially MC-based ones even though they are effective.

 

[jmauldin]

Gofor,
Thanks for the addition. That is something I failed to mention. I wore (wear) a rubber apron and boots, as well as eye shield. If the stuff gets on you YOU WILL KNOW IT!!!!!!! But water will rinse it off and no damage, if done quickly enough.
I agree with some of the others. I don't strip UNLESS I HAVE TO. I much prefer to save the original finish when possible, esp. on antiques, but sometimes there is no choice.
One final point, you can also rinse off MC with lac. thinner.
I have a couple of pieces I am working on now - a late 1800's chest and an early 1900's dresser. Will post pics when finished.
Jim in Mayberry

 

[JackLeg]

Sorry. Go to www.franmar.com