Anybody know the story behind these photos in the gallery?
This may be the record for smallest work shop. :icon_cheers
Red Sonja
- Thread starter Mike Davis
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Anybody know the story behind these photos in the gallery?
This may be the record for smallest work shop. :icon_cheers
I did some more searching and found the original post, they got some cherry logs for free from another member and decided to clean the loose bark off before taking the wood into their shop.
I had seen that pic before and wondered about it but never thought about searching for the thread.
mystery solved
or is it?
Where are they now and what new projects are they working on...
and what did they make with the cherry logs?
We may never know... :dontknow:
I had seen that pic before and wondered about it but never thought about searching for the thread.
mystery solved
or is it?
Where are they now and what new projects are they working on...
and what did they make with the cherry logs?
We may never know... :dontknow:
Yep, old timers remember :widea:
Greg (aka cloudancer) is the guy in the pix. Red Sonja was his girlfriend. At one time Greg was an admin or mod . . . I forget which :dontknow:
Nice feller, though. My first visit to DavidFs was a "Learn to Put a Burr on a Card Scraper" with Greg. I think there are some pixs of that buried in the Faces of NCWWer Gallery
HTH,
Roger
Greg (aka cloudancer) is the guy in the pix. Red Sonja was his girlfriend. At one time Greg was an admin or mod . . . I forget which :dontknow:
Nice feller, though. My first visit to DavidFs was a "Learn to Put a Burr on a Card Scraper" with Greg. I think there are some pixs of that buried in the Faces of NCWWer Gallery
HTH,
Roger
Yep, old timers remember :widea:
Greg (aka cloudancer) is the guy in the pix. Red Sonja was his girlfriend. At one time Greg was an admin or mod . . . I forget which :dontknow:
Nice feller, though. My first visit to DavidFs was a with Greg. I think there are some pixs of that buried in the Faces of NCWWer Gallery
HTH,
Roger
"Learn to Put a Burr on a Card Scraper" , Now that is something that I need to learn how to do.
Me too. Wonder if DavidF would willing to teach a couple of us how to do it? Either he or someone else.
If you want a surefire fast way to get them cutting, check out this video on youtube. I used to do all the filing, honing, etc, etc. Then I saw this video one night while just messing around and all I can say, no more of the "right way" for me. This method works good a plenty and doesn't take but a few seconds to accomplish. FYI, this method does not leave a finish ready surface but light sanding will be all that is needed.
Take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2mO_ItlBXw
Mike
Take a look
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2mO_ItlBXw
Mike
I love thread drift!
:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
:eusa_clap :eusa_clap :eusa_clap
I'll agree that for 90% of the work, just a file sharpening is all you need.
But for those that do not want to sand, or are working a gnarly wood and still desire those silky shavings:
Rolling a burr is not that hard to do, and I feel most people work too hard at it and ruin the edge. (I initially did just that). It does take the additional effort of smoothing the filed edge down to at least 600 grit paper (I usually go on to 1000), but it only takes a few strokes of the steel to produce the burr.
After filing and smoothing to 1000, I remove any burr by sliding it flat on the wet/dry paper.
I then rub the burnishing steel alongside my nose to get a bit of oil on it. (If you have dry skin, WD-40 or paraffin works) I draw it flat with the main surface off the edge for two strokes on each side. I then clamp the card in a vise and just push it straight down the edge. Re-oil between strokes. 1st stroke is flat. second stroke is about 3 degree down (repeat on other side). next stroke is about 5 degree down (repeat on other side). Go more if wanting a more aggressive cut.
You do not have to draw off the edge when turning the burr. Push it straight down the card.
The key is moderate constant pressure and more strokes if light is better. Too hard will "break" the edge causing a jagged burr.
As for quality, I have some scrapers from Lie-Nielson that are definitely harder, take a finer burr, and last longer. For them it takes me two strokes at each angle to roll the burr as compared to the Lynx 3 piece set, but both work equally well when sharp.
I am using a burnishing steel made from the valve stem of a Cummins diesel engine exhaust valve, so it is hard. If your steel gets scored from the card, you need a harder steel (No, Elizabeth, the shank of a common screwdriver is not a good steel IMHO).
I am self taught and do not pretend to be the expert, so please realize this is the way I do it, and not intended to be the only or best method.
JMTCW
Go
But for those that do not want to sand, or are working a gnarly wood and still desire those silky shavings:
Rolling a burr is not that hard to do, and I feel most people work too hard at it and ruin the edge. (I initially did just that). It does take the additional effort of smoothing the filed edge down to at least 600 grit paper (I usually go on to 1000), but it only takes a few strokes of the steel to produce the burr.
After filing and smoothing to 1000, I remove any burr by sliding it flat on the wet/dry paper.
I then rub the burnishing steel alongside my nose to get a bit of oil on it. (If you have dry skin, WD-40 or paraffin works) I draw it flat with the main surface off the edge for two strokes on each side. I then clamp the card in a vise and just push it straight down the edge. Re-oil between strokes. 1st stroke is flat. second stroke is about 3 degree down (repeat on other side). next stroke is about 5 degree down (repeat on other side). Go more if wanting a more aggressive cut.
You do not have to draw off the edge when turning the burr. Push it straight down the card.
The key is moderate constant pressure and more strokes if light is better. Too hard will "break" the edge causing a jagged burr.
As for quality, I have some scrapers from Lie-Nielson that are definitely harder, take a finer burr, and last longer. For them it takes me two strokes at each angle to roll the burr as compared to the Lynx 3 piece set, but both work equally well when sharp.
I am using a burnishing steel made from the valve stem of a Cummins diesel engine exhaust valve, so it is hard. If your steel gets scored from the card, you need a harder steel (No, Elizabeth, the shank of a common screwdriver is not a good steel IMHO).
I am self taught and do not pretend to be the expert, so please realize this is the way I do it, and not intended to be the only or best method.
JMTCW
Go
I remember that photo - always wondered what kind of tree that was, who snapped the picture and how he got the back of the car cleaned out.
But card scrapers is cool too, just don't bring up and offensive topics and the moderators should be ok.
But card scrapers is cool too, just don't bring up and offensive topics and the moderators should be ok.
Aww go on Go! Go ahead and gofor it. I need to know more about card scrapers.
I've been looking for a good used card scraper holder or old Stanley cabinet scraper if anybody has an extra.
That's what I meant, I don't have a problem with drift. My mind drifts, any conversation will drift, let the thread drift.
I've been looking for a good used card scraper holder or old Stanley cabinet scraper if anybody has an extra.
That's what I meant, I don't have a problem with drift. My mind drifts, any conversation will drift, let the thread drift.
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