Recommendation on Router table and Router

[Guy in Paradise]

Well the 30 year old craftsman routers I have failed. I had two and inherited two, and over the last couple of years all have failed. Kind of get use to the sparks the worn out brushes emit, but then other pieces start falling apart too. I am stationed overseas as a D.O.D. teacher and have some tools in a shed where I work when the military base woodshop is not open. So, space is limited. The following choices appeal to me, although I am open to ideas. I don't want to spend lots of money, but I can buy good equipment too. Please provide ideas on the following and whatever thoughts you might have, especially on the horizontal table router idea and what type router to put in it. Simple is better for me. I don't have a lot of ability to buy parts, or even good plywood here in Japan.

$170 for table, plus router (say $200)
MLCS Horizontal Router Table

$418 for table, router and some bits
Amazon.com: Bosch RA1181 Benchtop Router Table: Home Improvement

$411 for bosch table, router and some bits
Amazon.com: Bosch RA1171 Cabinet Style Router Table: Home Improvement

Thank-you and appreciate your ideas,
Guy Belleman

 

[Joe Scharle]

Well, you can make a table pretty cheaply. And speaking of the horizontal table, here's a larger version of the MLCS offering which I felt was too small for me, that I built for around $20.00.
I could have built it entirely from melamine, but I used available scrap.

View image in gallery

Also, I stumbled upon this pic of a shop built 'combo' table I built in the early 80s. Didn't have much $$$ invested and used it for a long time.
​

View image in gallery​

 

[blazeman45]

I have about $90 in this table I recently built (30x24). As for a router... that depends on what you will be using it for. If running raised panels or spinning large bits.. 3HP is a must. I down sized on this table to 2 1/4 HP. Good luck!!

View image in gallery​

View image in gallery​

 

[merrill77]

So, space is limited. The following choices appeal to me, although I am open to ideas. I don't want to spend lots of money, but I can buy good equipment too. Please provide ideas on the following and whatever thoughts you might have, especially on the horizontal table router idea and what type router to put in it. Simple is better for me. I don't have a lot of ability to buy parts, or even good plywood here in Japan.

For space and budget constraints, it is hard to beat this $15 router table. The basic design was from The Router Joinery Workshop book and I modified the design to my needs. It served me well for many years. The design also incorporates the ability to use the router horizontally. I highly recommend both the book and the router table design.

As for a router: if you intend to put it in a table, I'd recommend a model that was designed for table use. Especially look for one with above-the-table bit changes so you don't need to pull the router out every time you want to change bits (or fumble under the table with spindle wrenches). I have the Triton 3hp model, but there are now several models from other manufacturers with similar design features.

Chris

 

[DanR]

The Triton is on clearance for $199 at Woodcraft:
Buy Triton 3 1 4HP Plunge Router at Woodcraft

The Hitachi M12v2 is available at Amazon for $180 (one left as of last night):

Amazon.com: Used and New: Hitachi M12V2 15 amp 3-1/4-Horsepower Plunge Base Variable Speed Plunge Router with 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch Collets

The Triton gets great reviews when used in a table. From what I have read the Hitachi is better for hand use (out of the table).

 

[tryingtokeepmyfingers]

The Triton is on clearance for $199 at Woodcraft:
Buy Triton 3 1 4HP Plunge Router at Woodcraft

this is a great router for table use you still need a plate to mount it I recommend the Incra aluminum plate but then you need a table to fit that opening and in that case if you are buying a table I recommend a table from woodpeckers.... otherwise build your own table after getting advice at Routerforums.com

 

[merrill77]

this is a great router for table use you still need a plate to mount it

Any router (that I've seen) can be mounted directly to the table without a plate. Depending on the individual router, you may need to recess the area where the router is mounted (I needed to do that for my Triton) to get the desired projection above the table. IMO, that is a lot easier (and less error prone) than installing a plate.

 

[JimD]

I have never purchased a router table. I am on my 4th or 5th version at the moment. My current one has a homemade lift and works great. I also sometimes use a setup in the extension table of my table saw. The top of my router table is a sink cutout - a piece of a formica covered kitchen counter that is removed to mount the sink. High density particle board topped with formica. I added a maple wrap mostly to make it look nicer.

If you currently have zero routers the right place to start is a mid-sized fixed base/plunge base combination. I have two PC 690s with 4 bases. One fixed base is attached to the router table setup of my table saw and when I want to use it, I twist a 690 motor into the base, put the fence on the table, and I am setup to route. The current PC is a 890 and it's a little newer/nicer. The mid sized Milwaukee combo also gets favorable comments. Most reviews I've seen rank the Bosch as the best or tied with the PC 890 for the best. Any of these would do nearly anything you need a router to do.

I've used my 690 to make a dozen or more raised panel doors. It will make the cope and stick cuts in one pass but requires 3-4 passes to do the raised panels. All you gain by going to a 15A motor of a really big router is maybe 1 less pass. I firmly believe mid sized is the way to start out. They take 1/4 or 1/2 inch shank bits and are not as heavy as the really big one.

A little router, mine is a Bosch Colt, is also nice to have but not what you need at first. For small trimming operations, a mid-sized will work but is heavier and bulkier than a little one and you don't need all it's power. But, again, the mid sized will do a nice job, it is just more power and weight than you really need.

If you can dedicate a router to purely router table work, then a 15A big one makes sense. The bulk is not noticable in table use and the extra power is.

Jim

 

[allisnut]

My box of router table parts should arrive from Rockler tomorrow! I have a top made, just have to cut out for the plate, route dados for the miter track & t-track, build a fence, get the top mounted to the table saw so it can do double duty as an extension.... not much, right?

I have a hitachi m12vc with the pluge base and fixed base. I have been pleased so far, but I haven't really given it much of a workout. Any feedback, good or bad, on the hitachi?

Adam

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Rethinking the router

Lots of good ideas provided.

Joe, I like your horizontal table. What do you prefer, horizontal or vertical mount?

I can make the table. I could still use some input on finding the best router. The sale at Woodcraft on the Triton is really inviting. Unfortunately, I am limited with the inadequate wiring of military housing overseas. The Triton 3.25 HP at 22 amps would be too much for my 15 amp breaker circuit. I have to be careful to turn off everything else before I turn on my 13 amp bandsaw.

Some of the Triton features are nice, the above table adjustment, enclosed base with dust collector port, seem like nice features. What about the Triton 9 amp, which is also on sale, and has some of the same features? 1 1/3 HP might be too small.

I think I am going to be limited at 1 3/4 HP. Any recommendations? I don't plan on doing any big work with big bits. I do have sets of both 1/4" and 1/2" bits though.

Thanks again for your input. Guy

 

[ehpoole]

I can endorse the Bosch RA1171 router table. It is a nice choice if you don't have a good permanent spot for a larger dedicated router table (my shop is still too cluttered for such right now), as it is easy to move from one place to another or store on a shelf. Internally, it is large enough to accommodate a 2-1/4HP router (but not a larger 3HP router), which is plenty of power for a router table of its size (it is not a large enough table to tackle especially large jobs anyhow).

The only caveat I know to offer on it (I own one) is that you will need top purchase some small C-Clamps to better stabilize the fence when routing vertical pieces that reference the fence. There are two triangular openings at each of of the aluminum extrusion that serves as the fence, the perfect spot to insert a C-Clamp at each end to tighten it down to the table.

I use a PC 890 Series router with a fixed base for my RA1171 (previously I used my old PC 690, but I wanted variable speed). The table has ports for both topside (fence) and cabinet dust collection, so if you have dust collection you will be able to collect dust from above and below.

If you do not have dust collection (or at least a shop vac) then you will want to consider an open-stand style router table. Without below-the-table dust collection in a cabinet style table the dust and shavings will accumulate in the cabinet and the router can also overheat if run for extended periods while doing heavy work (it just keeps recycling the same hot, dusty, air). The additional of a dust collector or shop vac not only removes the waste debris but also draws in a continuous supply of fresh cool air, allowing for extended runtimes.

Whatever way you go, plan to dedicated a fix-based router to your router table if at all possible. It gets old real fast if you have to constantly attached and detach the router from the table for handheld work.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

 

[Joe Scharle]

Guy,
I built the horizontal table in anticipation of a whole bunch of raised panels. I'd rather work them laying flat than on their edge. And a plus, for what are called 'vertical bits', is they need much less HP than typical big horizontal bits. However, in my case, I use the big Milwaukee router in both this table and my table saw extension. I just bought an extra base and leave one in each table.
Also, insert a long straight bit and you can knock out some tenons quick. Mortises too, with a spiral bit. Dust collection is through a box under the bit and a shopvac hose.

You can't do it all with this table, but for it's intended purpose I wouldn't be without it.

 

[Bryan S]

To throw another fly in the ointment, do not overlook the Freud portable router table.

 

[merrill77]

Re: Rethinking the router

The Triton 3.25 HP at 22 amps would be too much for my 15 amp breaker circuit.

Where did you see 22a? I'm confident the Triton doesn't pull 22 amps. More like 13. I use mine all the time on a 15a circuit.

 

[Guy in Paradise]

Amps draw

Merrill 77,

Perhaps the Triton 3.25 HP doesn't draw more than 15 amps, most of the time, but it could at full power, unless my math is wrong.

Power = current x voltage = IV, so I = P/V = (3.25HP x 746 watts/HP) / 110 V = 22 amps

Doing the same calculation for the smaller Triton at 1 1/3HP gives the 9 amps that is advertised. Of course, over the last several years, there has been a lot discussion about the over-rating of motors. If the Triton isn't drawing over 13 amps, then maybe it is really a 2 HP.

 

[MarkE]

I think that the universal motors used in routers are rated at their 'stall speed'. The manufacturers load their motors until they stop, and measure the amp draw at the stall point, using that amp draw to calculate the HP.

This is the same method used by manufacturers to rate a 120 volt shop vacuum at 6.5 hp. :rotflm:

 

[merrill77]

Re: Amps draw

Perhaps the Triton 3.25 HP doesn't draw more than 15 amps, most of the time, but it could at full power, unless my math is wrong.

Your math is fine. That router is not really 3.25 HP for the same reason that my shop vac is not really 6.5 HP. You can only get ~1.5 HP out of a 120V 15A circuit at a constant load. Any tool that advertises otherwise is lying. Unfortunately for us, the entire industry for consumer power tools participates in the same lie. HP numbers are marketing fluff.

According to the ridiculous testing methods that they use to come up with these imaginary HP numbers, the motor is capable of drawing that much current for a few microseconds. IIRC, this happens during testing when they instantly stall the motor when running at full speed. It can't happen for long enough to get any useful work done...or even trip your circuit breaker.

Fortunately for us, the rated amperage draw is reasonably correct. Ignore the HP rating and look at the rated amperage draw for a more accurate reading of the electrical properties of any device. In real world usage, it will only rarely reach the rated amperage draw. You'll be fine with that router on a regular household outlet (if the circuit is not already loaded).