I should have clarified... I'm need this finished piece of trim to be used to "simulate" stiles on a raised panel "modern / shaker" cabinet door... So I need the finish to be very high precision.
The angles you are pointing to with arrows aren't 60 degrees (they are 120 degrees) A miter gauge on the table saw with the blade beveled at 30 degrees can make those cuts.
You're right and so am I.. it depends on your reference point. And you make a good point about using a table saw... I would think however that it would have to be a VERY high precision blade due to the thin stock.
Anyone want to help me render this profile? I do NOT have the equipment.
The angles you are pointing to with arrows aren't 60 degrees (they are 120 degrees) A miter gauge on the table saw with the blade beveled at 30 degrees can make those cuts.
The red dashed lines define the angle (and references) completely. No ambiguity whatsoever. I've been told by more than one person that I am argumentative, so just ignore me, I can't help myself sometimes.
I think your biggest issue with a thin piece like that would be making sure it doesn't vibrate/chatter during the cut. Featherboards and/or a sacrificial push stick to physically press the wood down to the table near the blade would work. Any full kerf blade on a decent saw should have more than enough accuracy to make those cuts. Some test cuts to set stops for repeatability and it's rinse and repeat after that. I'm in the Greensboro area (and happy to help), but I'm sure you don't want to come out this far, but there should be lots of people in the Raleigh area capable of making those cuts. They aren't super advanced/difficult. Good luck!
Sandwich the thin stock between two pieces of scrap (ex" 1/4 or 3/8 ply) and you will get a very precise and smooth cut with no tear out. Table, miter saw, or even a table router.
I have made cabinet doors with this type profile. Made them by setting blade to correct angle, then raising it thru a board clamped to fence. Part of the blade was exposed. The distance between the fence and blade set depth of cut. Works easiest on a right tilt saw, but can be done on a left tilt if fence can be moved to left of the blade.