Question Raised Panel Doors Glue Up

[KC7CN]

I recently purchased the Freud 2+2 Raised Panel Bit Set, and made my first set of doors for a sewing cabinet. The doors are 3/4" Red Oak, 23"W x 25"H. Rails and stiles are 3-1/4"W. Each door has two panels - separated with a 2-1/4" muntin.

Door frame without panels.



I routed the door frames about 7-8 days ago, and the joints appeared to reasonably tight. Now that I am ready to do the glue-up, all the joints appear to be very loose. I plan to use Titebond III.

Is this going to be a problem? Your experience and advice will be appreciated!

 

[dancam]

Don,

By very loose, do you mean they fall apart if you lift them off the bench? If they are that loose you can just put a very thin piece of veneer on the back side of each tenon and glue up from there.

If they are just a little loose and can be pulled apart easily the Titebond should be fine to fill in.

Either way make sure you clamp and measure for square and then let them set up for at least 4-6 hours.

From the pics they look real good. Are you going to have flat or raised panels?

Dan C.

 

[McRabbet]

Your joints look fine in this picture and should hold well when glued up. How was the stock stored before you did the joinery and then how stored since then? If the wood has been subjected to more or less the same conditions in your shop, then there should not be any problems. Remember to keep the panels floating during glue up -- I usually apply my sealer coat of finish before final glue up so any minor panel shrinkage does not reveal bare wood (but protect the rail and stile glue joints from that sealer!).

 

[KC7CN]

By very loose, do you mean they fall apart if you lift them off the bench?....

Dan C.

Yes. I did not think about adding veneer; that may be the answer!

How was the stock stored before you did the joinery and then how stored since then?

The stock was stored indoors where I purchased it, and for a short time in my shop. The doors were stored flat on my table saw outfeed table after milled them. The panels are raised Red Oak hardwood. I have them stained with 3-4 wipe on coats of Polyurathane. The rails and stiles will be finished later.

Thank you for the suggestions.

-Don

 

[DavidF]

Your joints look fine in this picture and should hold well when glued up. How was the stock stored before you did the joinery and then how stored since then? If the wood has been subjected to more or less the same conditions in your shop, then there should not be any problems. Remember to keep the panels floating during glue up -- I usually apply my sealer coat of finish before final glue up so any minor panel shrinkage does not reveal bare wood (but protect the rail and stile glue joints from that sealer!).

Hey! how can you tell how tight the tenons are by looking at that pic Rob -X-ray vision?:rotflm:

 

[McRabbet]

They are cope and stick, not mortise and tenon, right? It sure looks like the visible part is snug.... but then when I put on my x-ray goggles...

 

[KC7CN]

Thanks everyone for your help. X-ray vision is wonderful :wink_smil I glued up one of the doors this morning, will do the remaining door this evening.

-Don

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Very good, Don... Hope they come out OK.

73...

 

[KC7CN]

Followup

The glue-up is done, and the doors look good! I was very apprehensive because this was the first time.

I did have one minor problem! One of the doors has a very small bow caused by too much clamp pressure. I did a lot of research on this topic, and THOUGHT I was being very careful not to let this happen.

Since I do not have parallel clamps, I made supports for my pipe clamps, and a platform that sits on the bars, to hold the door flat. And I used a small straight edge to insure the door did not bow when I applied clamp pressure. I also used a few small clamps to secure the stile to the flat platform. Another factor is the wide stiles (3-1/4'') on this set of doors. Oh well, can't say I didn't try!

On reelection, the longer I'm in this hobby, the more humble I feel am about how much I don't know! Spending a lot of time on woodworking forums, reading about how something is done, does not qualify for true experience.

Thanks again for all your help.

-Don

 

[Travis Porter]

Re: Followup

For me, I now pin nail the doors with 5/8" brads on the back side and then remove the clamps all together. That way, I can do multiple doors at one time and don't have to worry about the bowing.

To your point though, you never know until you try it yourself, that is for sure.

 

[KC7CN]

Re: Followup

For me, I now pin nail the doors with 5/8" brads on the back side and then remove the clamps all together. That way, I can do multiple doors at one time and don't have to worry about the bowing.

To your point though, you never know until you try it yourself, that is for sure.

I was hoping someone would have a good solution for this problem.

Thanks Travis.

-Don

 

[Bas]

Re: Followup

Spending a lot of time on woodworking forums, reading about how something is done, does not qualify for true experience.

Now you tell me! Can I get a refund?

You're so right though. I tried something as basic as edge gluing a few boards, and I just couldn't keep them flat. Who's got time to worry about things like design and form!

But, I have the feeling your second door is going to turn out really well Don. Many of us (well, me anyway) would probably have messed up something long before even getting to the bowing problem stage! Good to see you're doing all sorts of new things. How do you like the Freud set?

 

[KC7CN]

Re: Followup

... How do you like the Freud set?

I really like it. Nice, clean, smooth cuts, and setup was easy. The video and instructions were helpful too!

-Don

 

[Gofor]

Re: Followup

I was hoping someone would have a good solution for this problem.

Thanks Travis.

-Don

Whenever possible, i put the pipe clamps on with the pipe in the same plane as the door (i.e. I clamp from the end). I started doing this because I was having the same problem (bowing, especially pulling the stiles out of plane with the rail). Obviously, this doesn't work on the center stile or rail (I know that there is a proper name for it, munnion maybe?) ,but does work better for me on the ends. I back off the center clamps after I get full squeeze out on the glue.

Go

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Re: Followup

On reelection, the longer I'm in this hobby, the more humble I feel am about how much I don't know! Spending a lot of time on woodworking forums, reading about how something is done, does not qualify for true experience.

Thanks again for all your help.

-Don

Yup! You got that right!!!! And just because something looks good in a pic posted on a forum doesn't mean the item will hold up to close examination with the naked eye! Case in point. At lot of "learning" :roll::roll::roll: went into these shop cabinets.