Question about Waterlox

[Roy G]

I have used Waterlox for years on furniture and bowls. I had to buy another can recently and needed to decide which kind to get. In the past I had used the Marine finish and was pleased with the results. Since I hadn't used any in awhile I went to the Waterlox site and read up on their various products. Invariably the site said a sealer was required before the top coat. I have never used a sealer under the Waterlox and haven't noticed any problems. Am I missing something here? I think the Marine Waterlox has more UV protection but I don't know if there is any other difference between the Marine and the Original finish. Does the Original go on easier? Soak in more? It seems according to the site that the Marine is maybe not as tough as the Original since they say not to use the Marine in areas with heavy foot traffic. The site says the Original can be used outside if out of direct sunlight. I probably went with Marine Waterlox since I don't like the can the Original comes in. If anybody has experience using the sealer before the topcoat, please let me know. Thanks.

Roy G

 

[Graywolf]

The marine product is more flexible or pliable after it’s cured. It is designed to withstand drastic temperature changes and weather so it has to be more flexible to survive those conditions.
As for the sealer first, a lot of products work better with a base of a sealer coat before top coats.much like paint products you prime before you paint, very similar with clear finishes sealer coats are common. I glad you read the application information, most folks don’t.

 

[Oka]

What's this reading thing ?

 

[Graywolf]

What's this reading thing ?

Something we should learn to do!

 

[Rwe2156]

You can get by without it, but I seal just about everything with a coat or two of dewaxed shellac (Seal Coat is 2%). I’ve use it under Waterlox no issues.

The reason for any sealer is to prevent the wood from soaking it up, maybe unevenly, of course this depends on the wood and especially if it’s figured, which will cause unequal uptake. Not as critical with oil, but it would increase the # of coats to build a finish, and may result in an uneven look. Maybe longer drying time? If they say use a sealer, then I wouldn’t question it.

Does Bloxygen really work? I have a bottle but yet to try it. Seems like Waterlox has one of the worst shelf lives of any finish I have and the main reason I don’t use it much.

 

[danmart77]

I have used Waterlox for some things I wanted protection on the surface. Recently, I went in the Klingspor store in Mac Gregor shopping site and found Klingspor on the shelf. The price tag said 50.00 for a quart of the original varnish. In my mind if I was willing to pay 50 bucks for varnish I'd be sure to read the can and use a sealer before application. Remember to take the air out of the can by putting marbles in to raise the top line to the lid. It is a cheap way to reuse the remainder down the road. I used the varnish original on this rifle 10 years ago and it still looks good.

 

[Roy G]

Along with the Waterlox I got a can of shellac. Thank you DrBob for your suggestion of shellac as a sealer under Waterlox. And Bloxygen does indeed work. I have used it on several cans of finish and never had any set up on me. I also tried the Stop-loss bags and they also work but are a royal pain to use. Bloxygen costs more but does what you want it to do. And has good customer service. I always mark the Bloxygen can every use so I can keep up with how much is left. I got up to 25 uses on one can and no more came out. Since the can states good for about 75 uses, I contacted them and they sent me a new can.

Casey, instructions are what you read to find out what you should have done.

Roy G

 

[danmart77]

You might want to check the "can of shellac" for use as a sealer. If you like cans of shellac: be advised they can be old before useage and they contain wax.

 

[malacoda]

From what I understand, the Orginal Waterlox, which they now also refer to as the "Original Sealer Finish," is the same as the "Marine Formula" except that it has been thinned (by ~50% IIR, but don't hold me to that) in order to...

• make it a wipe on finish (e.g. no streaks)
• allow it to soak in a bit quicker, deeper, and easier

So when they suggest a "sealer" before applying the Marine Finish, what they are recommending is a coat or two of their Original Sealer Finish followed by a coat or two of their Marine Finish.

You can achieve the same result with just the Original Sealer Finish. It will just take more coats to get to the same film thickness.

I used to use Bloxygen as well, then discovered that cans of keyboard "Dust Off" air spray also work just fine ... and cost about 40% less.

 

[zdorsch]

You might want to check the "can of shellac" for use as a sealer. If you like cans of shellac: be advised they can be old before useage and they contain wax.

I too wonder how shellac will work with waterlox. I thought the “original” waterlox, now “sealer and finish” achived durability by soaking into the wood and then building a finish on top. I wonder how well waterlox actually binds to shellac.

 

[Rwe2156]

I too wonder how shellac will work with waterlox. I thought the “original” waterlox, now “sealer and finish” achived durability by soaking into the wood and then building a finish on top. I wonder how well waterlox actually binds to shellac.

You might want to check the "can of shellac" for use as a sealer. If you like cans of shellac: be advised they can be old before useage and they contain wax.

Seal coat is de-waxed shellac in a 2 LB cut.

The other Zinsser shellacs Amber and Clear do contain wax.

 

[ToddA]

You can get by without it, but I seal just about everything with a coat or two of dewaxed shellac (Seal Coat is 2%). I’ve use it under Waterlox no issues.

The reason for any sealer is to prevent the wood from soaking it up, maybe unevenly, of course this depends on the wood and especially if it’s figured, which will cause unequal uptake. Not as critical with oil, but it would increase the # of coats to build a finish, and may result in an uneven look. Maybe longer drying time? If they say use a sealer, then I wouldn’t question it.

Does Bloxygen really work? I have a bottle but yet to try it. Seems like Waterlox has one of the worst shelf lives of any finish I have and the main reason I don’t use it much.

Do you use a sealer under a finish that's supposed to soak in, like an oil-based one? I would think that would be a problem.

 

[John Britton]

I have used Waterlox for years on furniture and bowls. I had to buy another can recently and needed to decide which kind to get. In the past I had used the Marine finish and was pleased with the results. Since I hadn't used any in awhile I went to the Waterlox site and read up on their various products. Invariably the site said a sealer was required before the top coat. I have never used a sealer under the Waterlox and haven't noticed any problems. Am I missing something here? I think the Marine Waterlox has more UV protection but I don't know if there is any other difference between the Marine and the Original finish. Does the Original go on easier? Soak in more? It seems according to the site that the Marine is maybe not as tough as the Original since they say not to use the Marine in areas with heavy foot traffic. The site says the Original can be used outside if out of direct sunlight. I probably went with Marine Waterlox since I don't like the can the Original comes in. If anybody has experience using the sealer before the topcoat, please let me know. Thanks.

Roy G

Is it possible for a sealer, they mean a thinned coat of the same product you intend to use as a final coat. Many finishes recommend this practice.

 

[LeftyTom]

I used the Waterlox Original on some oak used on a repurposed grill stand. It has sat out on a covered loading dock for over 4 years, and still looks good.

 

[Jim Wallace]

I always used the original, often diluting the first coat with mineral spirits for better penetration. Steel wool between coats: three coats always gave me the gloss I wanted.

To keep it from turning to jello in the can I would squeeze the can with pliers to expel all the air, then put the lid on extra tight. The can gets ugly and eventually won’t stand up on the shelf, but the finish can be used up.

 

[danmart77]

I always used the original, often diluting the first coat with mineral spirits for better penetration. Steel wool between coats: three coats always gave me the gloss I wanted.

To keep it from turning to jello in the can I would squeeze the can with pliers to expel all the air, then put the lid on extra tight. The can gets ugly and eventually won’t stand up on the shelf, but the finish can be used up.

A bag of marbles is an easy alternative to getting the air out.

 

[Roy G]

All the conversation here has made it clear why I like Waterlox. It is a wiping varnish and I really like the final appearance after a couple coats. The soaking into the wood is not important to me. I have found the final appearance is good and the overall wear resistance is fine. Thanks for all the input.

Roy G

 

[ToddA]

All the conversation here has made it clear why I like Waterlox. It is a wiping varnish and I really like the final appearance after a couple coats. The soaking into the wood is not important to me. I have found the final appearance is good and the overall wear resistance is fine. Thanks for all the input.

Roy G

I also like wiping varnishes, but I usually just thin a good polyurethane with mineral spirits to make it into wipe-on poly. Is there something about Waterlox that you like better than my "usual" approach would produce? (I bought a can of Waterlox a while ago to experiment with, but haven't used it yet on any real project.)

 

[golfdad]

I also like wiping varnishes, but I usually just thin a good polyurethane with mineral spirits to make it into wipe-on poly. Is there something about Waterlox that you like better than my "usual" approach would produce? (I bought a can of Waterlox a while ago to experiment with, but haven't used it yet on any real project.)

Does your thining technic work with any sheen ? What is the mix ratio that works the best?

 

[Roy G]

Todd, I just use Waterlox because I like the finish it leaves. I had used other tung oils in the past but found I needed a wiping varnish and a lot of the tung oils turned out to be penetrating oils. No build to speak of and left a matte surface at best. The general public likes a glossy finish over matte and when I give a bowl away I like to make them happy. I guess you would have to do a benefit-cost study to see if Waterlox is more bang for your buck compared to thinned down poly.

Roy G