Question about shutters

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Obxwoody

New User
Andy
Not to hijack the thread, but any good sources or experience on "functional" shutters? I'm curious we are replacing our windows within the next 24 months....and some cute shutters to go with them might be nice. But living on the coast we also need something to handle the storms...currently we put out corrugated panels on a track above and below the windows...but that is a pain, I imagine just being able to close the shutters as such a dream come true....
 

Joe Scharle

New User
Joe
I had functional shutters on my previous home and one of the hinges never quite fit. I was gobsmacked at the cost of the replacement pair. I believe they were over $50.00!
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
media.nl


http://www.houseofantiquehardware.c...d_09JW_d_377&gclid=CPWuieW6rscCFQMbaQodlQUAQA
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
I agree about painting/sealing the back side. I am also wondering how to get good coverage between the battens. Maybe paint before assembly? That has challenges if glue and dadoes are used in addition to screws.

One option would be to use a flexible/paintable caulk between the batten edges (and on all the joint seams). Then prime/paint. I am a bit obsessive about the benefits of a good caulk job on the exterior of any structure. Just had a 16 x 24 shed built, and I used almost 10 tubes of caulk on it before I painted. 25 years on the Florida gulf coast showed me the benefit of stopping whatever moisture intrusion you can, and caulk is fairly cheap. You do not need to go the big bucks for a 40 or 60 year caulk, as the 25 year works just fine with good paint on top.

Go
 

Tim Sherwood

Tim
Corporate Member
Many purely decorative shutters you see these days , are applied without any relationship to the size of the window. Even if they are just decorative, they should be the correct height and width to fully cover the opening.
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
Many purely decorative shutters you see these days , are applied without any relationship to the size of the window. Even if they are just decorative, they should be the correct height and width to fully cover the opening.

I agree that gives the best appearance. Really wide windows pose a challenge.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've worked with these shutter hinges before. Be sure you make the rails thick enough to accommodate them (1-1/2" should do it). Also, save yourself some time and make up a mortising jig for your router. They actually are mounted into the edge of the shutter and the edge of the window trim/moulding. Good luck of you have brick veneer........
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Keep in mind that that the shutters will expand and contract due to changes in humidity and other moisture. You must use a construction technique that allows for this movement or the shutters will split and/or any joints will fail. To attach the vertical boards with only a single screw through the cross-piece from the back. Allow space between the vertical boards for movement.
 
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CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Keep in mind that that the shutters will expand and contract due to changes in humidity and other moisture. You must use a construction technique that allows for this movement or the shutters will split and/or any joints will fail. To attach the vertical boards with only a single screw through the cross-piece from the back. All space between the vertical boards for movement.
Pinned slotted tendons with no glue - be OK?
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
I was planning on using construction similar to the link that Jeff (rougemont) posted.
http://shuttercraft.com/B&B_PRICING.pdf

Vertical Boards: ~1" thick w/ beveled inner edges and 1/8" spacing for expansion
Horizontal Battens: ~1" thick x 3.5" wide w/ beveled edges. Recessed 1/8" into vertical boards.

Stainless screws and glue.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
My advice: buy premade vinyl shutters or make the shutters from cellular pvc.

Life is too short to spend it scraping and repairing wood shutters.

OK, if the house warrants wood shutters - is a historic home, high-end, whatever - use KD cypress, heartwood red cedar, white oak and appropriate hardware.

Cool web-page on the topic:
http://www.oldhouseguy.com/shutters/

-Mark

I would add a caveat..... My last house had decorative board and batten shutters which required repainting over the years. When I bought my current house it had vinyl raised panel shutters and I was looking forward to 0 maintenance. About 5 years down the line the vinyl color started to go from the exposure to our strong southern sun. I ended up painting them a darker color and so far so good. Fortunately modern rattle can paint has good adhesion to vinyl (check the label) .:wink_smil
 

jrfuda

New User
John
I have 600bf of 6/4 Sapele sitting in my shop waiting for me to turn them into functional raised panel shutters. I'm using a Freud entry door bit set and stile/rail construction with Domino tenons to put them together. We're in year 5 of remodeling our pre-1900 home and have fallen behind. Hopefully I'll start on them in the next 60 days. I cam about this after about 6 months of research talking to shutter manufacturers, custom door builders, reading online, and talking to my brother-in-law who has a window/gutter cleaning business and works on many high-end home in the Charlotte area (so he sees a lot of shutters).

I spoke to the lumber buyer at the local McDonald Lumber about material and had him looking at clear cedar and cypress initially. The mill where they get most of their hardwood and custom wood from advised against cypress as they could not get their hands on much old growth material anymore and it had longevity issues, and the clear cedar was north of $8/BF. He steered me towards sapele. A week later, when I went to order, the mill owner happened to be in the office talking to the lumber buyer and I was able to get them to S3S the lumber to 6/4 final with no extra charge (being in uniform helped)... ended up being $5.40/BF delivered to my door. Maybe not the greatest price possible, but a good value to me once you factor in the convenience factor.

Anyway, even though I have not started construction, something I've considered that would have reduced costs and would likely still yield the product I want (paint grade shutter, but the way) would be to use Extira or Miratec for the panel portions, keeping sapele for the stiles and rails. It would have been cheaper, I'd be less likely to have a panel warp post construction, and it will save me time putting shutters together instead of gluing panels.. I may still do it and keep the leftover sapele for other projects.

I think either miratec or extira (same product, miratec is planks extira is panels) would be great for board and batten, though miratec states in their installation instructions that shutters made from it should be non-functional.. however, I think if you laminate 2 pieces of 3/4 miratec or extira together to get a 6/4 final, the structural issues would fade.

I saw mention of using cellular PVC for shutters, however, during my research I read that it is not advisable to paint cellular PVC dark colors because it can cause it to overheat and deform. My shutters will be either black or a very dark green, so that left PVC out.

As far as hardware goes, shuttercraft.com has the best prices I could find and their staff can talk you through choosing the right hardware if you go the functional route. They also have some non-functional hardware designed to make the shutters look functional. If you go functional, you may have to mix and match pintle and hinge sizes (my casing is 7/8 deep and shutters will be 1-3/8 thick finished). Hardware is going to cost nearly as much as my lumber. I'm using New York style hinges, three per shutter (73" and 63" tall shutters). I wanted to be able to use the mortise hinges pointed out earlier in the thread, as they are significantly less expensive and don't require hold backs, however, they have to be mortised into the casing (mine is too shallow), don't work well in my asymmetrical casing vs shutter thickness and would hold the shutters closer to the window (covering all the casing) than I'd prefer.

If you want someone to build shutters for you, exteriorshutter.com (out of Texas) has the best prices I could find on custom made wood shutters anywhere. They only finish shutters for local delivery, so you'll still have to finish them once you get them. They use pine or cedar (your choice, cedar is more, of course) and can add any features you like, including operable louvers if you wanted them. Their panel shutters use an extira-like product for the panel portion, with the balance wood. The other shutters are all wood. Shuttercraft has pretty good prices as well.

Most of the other sites I checked were significantly higher than exteriorshutters and shuttercraft. A few offered a full synthetic product as well.

Finally, there are several sites that will make custom-ish non-functional vinyl shutters that will look close to correct size for most windows, especially if you mount them on the casing and use faux hardware. decorativeshutters.com has shutters in 7,9,10,12,14.5,16.25, and 17.75" widths with heights customizable to within a 1/4".
 
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mkepke

Mark
Senior User
I saw mention of using cellular PVC for shutters, however, during my research I read that it is not advisable to paint cellular PVC dark colors because it can cause it to overheat and deform. My shutters will be either black or a very dark green, so that left PVC out.
This is a good point. That said I know that Sherwin Williams and Ben Moore (maybe others) have several paints they advertise as safe for applying dark colors on vinyl, but I have not used those paints.

-Mark
 
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