Porch Swing Construction Suggestions Wanted

[Jeff]

A friend of mine wants to build this for his daughter and son-in-law; this one has been in his family for at least 25 years, but protected from the elements on a porch. He's got a really limited budget so we're trying to save a bit where we can without compromising the structural strength of the whole thing.

Don't know the wood used in this, but he thinks it was oak. Primarily bolts, nuts, washers, and screws used here and it's rock solid as you see it.

Do you all have any suggestions for "cleaning up" the joinery with a few mortise & tenon joints like the bottom frame stretchers, etc.? Maybe we should just do exactly nothing, but simply reconstruct this 25 year old piece from new wood; after all it's been around for quite awhile without a wobble whatsoever. :help: :dontknow:

The new swing will likely be made of cypress with 316SS hardware.

Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions. ccasion1

 

[Ken Massingale]

I'm sure most of us WW'ers would prefer M&T but do you think his daughter and SIL will care as long as it's sturdy and attractive?
That's a solid design and doesn't look bad at all. If I were building it as in the pics, I'd be more aggresive with the roundovers and make it look 'smoother'.

 

[Glennbear]

With that kind of longevity the original fastening methods seem to work. The only suggestion I would have is the application of Titebond III where pieces meet to supplement mechanical fastening. :wsmile:

 

[Trent Mason]

Great advice given so far. From a structural standpoint it looks like your biggest challenge is making those side rails (side pieces) nice and strong. Since they support the weight of the chair from the side like that (and the top) you want those pieces to be very sturdy, so they won't lean in toward the chair. The ideal solution would be to put a brace behind the chair to hold them in place, but I'm not sure that will work with the swinging chair. Just make sure that your cross braces (the diagonal braces under the chair that hold the sides upright) are solid as a rock. That's probably the most critical part of the construction, to me at least. :icon_thum

 

[froglips]

You tripped one of my various "hmmm-neurons".....

This frame reminds me somewhat of a hammock stand. They do more or less the same thing.

Might look online for some ideas.

In looking at it, without changing the design, I don't quite see where mortise & tenons would come into play.

You could redesign it, maybe moving to 4x4's, but I personally think the current design is just fine.

Jim

 

[Jeff]

Thanks for the input folks. The consensus appears to be "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". No sense overdesigning and complicating the whole process just for the sake of aesthetic change. ccasion1

Thanks again.

 

[gritz]

I would rotate the uprights 90 degrees, and put the arm apron on the outside of the frame instead of the inside. that would withdraw the eyebolts from view, strengthen the frame, and reduce the possibility of hand bites. Use acorn nuts on the outside.
I would rotate the diagonal 90 degrees, make it a 2x6 and add another horizontal piece where it dies into the sides to transfer the loads. (You will have to design a joint.)
Then I would sculpt the seat, back and arms a bit for comfort and looks.

 

[JCG]

M&T joinery may be overkill for an outdoor project such as this, especially if it will be painted. I might recommend lap or half lap with construction adhesive and bolts or screws countersunk and plugged. Will leave a nice smooth finish without Frankenstein bolts and allow for a little leeway in accuracy when assembling the components, more so than needed with M&Ts

John

 

[Jeff]

I would rotate the uprights 90 degrees, and put the arm apron on the outside of the frame instead of the inside. that would withdraw the eyebolts from view, strengthen the frame, and reduce the possibility of hand bites. Use acorn nuts on the outside.
I would rotate the diagonal 90 degrees, make it a 2x6 and add another horizontal piece where it dies into the sides to transfer the loads. (You will have to design a joint.)
Then I would sculpt the seat, back and arms a bit for comfort and looks.

I think that I understand your suggestion, but have a few questions. If I rotate the uprights 90 degrees would I cut a basic bridle joint to straddle the bottom leg section? All pieces are 3" wide x 1 1/16" thick so the bridle would be about 1/3 of the total 3" width of the upright. Then 3" screws (2 for each upright) and TBIII through each upright and the bottom leg. It sounds structurally secure and better than a half lap to resist racking. I can then put the upper apron on the outside as you suggest. :help:
:icon_scra

 

[gritz]

How about just rotating the two center uprights 90 degrees and leave the front and rear ones flat to the foot rail? That would make the joint easier to design and add the strength to prevent the bowing-in I see in the picture.

 

[Jeff]

How about just rotating the two center uprights 90 degrees and leave the front and rear ones flat to the foot rail? That would make the joint easier to design and add the strength to prevent the bowing-in I see in the picture.

Here's a few hand drawn sketches. I like your first ideas and these are based upon what I thought that you were suggesting.

If these aren't clear you can maybe view them in my gallery with better clarity. :icon_scra

Again, thanks to all for your helpful suggestions and please chime in on the suggestions by Gritz. :eusa_clap

 

[gritz]

That's pretty much what I had in mind. Just something to stiffen it up a bit.