Most tests rate the Forrest Woodworker II as the best general purpose blade on the market. But they are pricey, running from $89.99- $109.99 depending upon the source. A good alternative is the DeWalt 7657, 40 tooth general purpose blade. These can be had for $39.99- $60.00 depending upon source. Amazon currently has them on sale for $39.99 with a 4-6 week back log. Woodworkers Supply in Graham has them for $42.99. I own both the WWII and the 7657. Both deliver incrediable cuts. Shear economics tells me to buy two of the DeWalts when looking for another blade. Just my thoughts. Bruce
- Status
I've used every blade known to man and have settled on HO schumacher and sohn blades. They are very high quality and made in geramany. I have 4 of their blades right now. In fact their 40 tooth general blade is on sale right now for $40.50.
Schumacher and Sohn General Purpose Blade
They have a variable teeth design that completely kills the annoying " acoustic ringing" you get with a forrest, Inline, or other standard blade.
Good Luck,
John
Schumacher and Sohn General Purpose Blade
They have a variable teeth design that completely kills the annoying " acoustic ringing" you get with a forrest, Inline, or other standard blade.
Good Luck,
John
I use the DW 30 tooth GP blade that came with my saw and to be perfectly honest it is every bit as good as the WWII. I am tempted by the Freud P410 fusion, but again pricey and I am not sure that I'll see the extra $$$
Does a better blade burn less? I have a nice Forrest on my miter saw, and it seldom burns unless I go super slow. But it's just the standard cheap blade that came with my $150 skill benchtop saw that filled up my garage with smoke last night cutting 6/4 basswood.
I've never known if the burning is because the saw is a piece of *&^% or the blade is wrong or . . . . well... basically I have no clue here.
I do know that using the laminate blade will burn anything over 1/4" thick or so.
Todd
I've never known if the burning is because the saw is a piece of *&^% or the blade is wrong or . . . . well... basically I have no clue here.
I do know that using the laminate blade will burn anything over 1/4" thick or so.
Todd
I would say a better "setup" burns less. No point having a great blade if the fence is not set correctly. A mitre saw is a different beast and I would think that burning is not generally a problem as the cut is very quick and doesn't really have time to build up heat. 6/4 shouldn't burn unless the blade is dull, fence is set wrong or you fed too slowly.
Dave,
I'm sure the toy fence isn't set right, but I do my best to line it up. It's really a toy. I can't feed very fast because the saw bogs down, which might be because the blade is dull, or it could be that the saw simply isn't up to cutting anything over an inch thick.
I've been looking for a planer, but it may be that I will shop for a saw first. Last night I had to open the garage door and leave for 15 minutes because of the smoke. Then it was really cold!
Problem is, I can fit a lunchbox planer easily. Not sure where I can fit a real saw even with a mobile base.
Todd
I'm sure the toy fence isn't set right, but I do my best to line it up. It's really a toy. I can't feed very fast because the saw bogs down, which might be because the blade is dull, or it could be that the saw simply isn't up to cutting anything over an inch thick.
I've been looking for a planer, but it may be that I will shop for a saw first. Last night I had to open the garage door and leave for 15 minutes because of the smoke. Then it was really cold!
Problem is, I can fit a lunchbox planer easily. Not sure where I can fit a real saw even with a mobile base.
Todd
Just to give you an idea; when I had to choose which tools to put in the container from the UK when I came over I chose my band saw, planer and jointer. I decided to leave my table saw behind and I was able to produce most things with that combination. Not that I wouldn't be without my TS now, but it actaully isn't essential if you haven't got room. You also need to to fairly useful with hand tools if you have no TS!
:rolf: :rolf: :rolf: :rolf:
Ah, but it Vil make you do it right, or else:lol:
we should probably stop this now:roll:
These blades are made by Leitz, aka Mike Jackson- xcesstooling @ woodnet.net These along with older Delta blades and the stock blade on zip code saw are Leitz blades. DW7657 is full kerf. I don't get the problem with full kerf blades. I run them on my Delta contractor's saw all the time.
John, where do you get these sharpened? With the variable tooth design, I wouldn't think many local guys would want to touch it, and if they did, the variable teeth would be a thing of the past.
Alan
Originally DeWalt 7657, now Delta 7657. There are two letters in front of the numbers, but at my age, I can't seem to recall them. Lowes only stocks two of the DeWalt/ Delta series 40 blades. The forty tooth general purpose (7657) and a sixty tooth cross cut blade. Although the Freud LU84 did a better job of ripping soft maple edging, DeWalt 7657 did a better job cross cutting birch plywood. Almost no chip out.
- Status
