Planer snipe problem

[Keye]

I have a 13" 2 speed Delta Planner model 22-580 bought in 1994. Never had a problem with it and I have run1000's of board feet through it.

Two days ago I was going to plane some 30" to 36" maple, walnut and sapele boards. I had planned similar boards about a week ago without any issues.

Ran a board through and I had snipe on both ends. I cleaned the rollers, flipped the blade to a new edge and checked the in feed and out feed extensions. Both were really messed up. How they went from OK to not level I have no idea.

I spent a long time adjusting and testing. I do not have any fancy measuring tools so I used the method I used on my jointer in the mid 90's. Took 12" flat board and pushed it through and then pulled it back until it was smooth all the way across. Did this on both extensions. I then used a long straight edge to check to make sure everything was in the same plane.. With the lights out I could not see any light under the straight edge.

I ran a board through and had a little snipe on both ends but not nearly as much. Went through the whole process again. Ran a board through and had snipe on the leading end coming out of the planner. I have tried again and again and can not get rid of the snipe.

Sure hope someone has an idea how to solve this.

 

[J_Graham]

It has a lot to do with the weight of the board that is opposite the planer. When you start a board (particularly a board that is significantly longer than your planer bed) the end of the board that hangs out is pulling down and balancing on the front edge of your planer bed. Similarly as the board leaves the planer bed it tends to push up the final edge of the board against blades. This only really happens when the board is being held in place with only one roller, hence snipe only really being an issue on the front and tail ends of a board. One simple fix for this is to get something that is the same level as your planer bed to "catch" the board and support it all the way through the cut. This is a complicated one in this picture, but I think it demonstrates the theory. The goal is to extend your planer bed out both directions. sometimes this is a simple as an extra long piece of melamine or plywood with some extra wax on top for the board to slide on top of, or some people use roller top stands. These are nice but need to be precisely level with your planer bed.

 

[Mike Davis]

I always add about 1/8-3/16 inch height to the ends of the infeed and outfeed tables. This forces the end of the board down just as it reaches the blades. If the tables are cast iron or otherwise very stiff then you may only need 1/16- 1/32.

 

[Rwe2156]

I’ve been told by very knowledgeable people snipe is caused by the cutterhead raising or bed lowering (depending on the design) from the force of the board as it passes the cutterhead.

With that in mind I would ask are the blades sharp? Dull blades greatly increase the forces.

Some planers are inherently snipe prone. On those use up pressure on board in and out. I guess that the same as what Mike described. I do this when planing thinner boards.

 

[AllanD]

I think Graham noted the most common reason . Even with my stationary planer though I try to always lift up the ends of the board lightly when it comes out the outfeed.

 

[Keye]

I am aware of all of the issues mentioned except Mike's method and the thin board comment. I have planed boards 5/4 x 12" x 10' and have never had snipe on the end going into the planner first. On the longer heaver boards I would use a little upward pressure as the board leaves the planner. These boards I am having a problem with now are 36" or less in length and no more than 6" wide. This is why I am so flustered.

Guess I should have mentioned I had already planned these boards to 7/8" with out snipe. My wife asked me to make something for her and I need 1/2" thick boards. I guess this is the reason I think something may actually be wrong with the planner.

I always add about 1/8-3/16 inch height to the ends of the infeed and outfeed tables. This forces the end of the board down just as it reaches the blades. If the tables are cast iron or otherwise very stiff then you may only need 1/16- 1/32.

Not cast iron and very old, I am going to try your method Mike

This is an old planner and I thought if something has to much wear this could be causing the issue

 

[Keye]

It has a lot to do with the weight of the board that is opposite the planer. When you start a board (particularly a board that is significantly longer than your planer bed) the end of the board that hangs out is pulling down and balancing on the front edge of your planer bed. Similarly as the board leaves the planer bed it tends to push up the final edge of the board against blades. This only really happens when the board is being held in place with only one roller, hence snipe only really being an issue on the front and tail ends of a board. One simple fix for this is to get something that is the same level as your planer bed to "catch" the board and support it all the way through the cut. This is a complicated one in this picture, but I think it demonstrates the theory. The goal is to extend your planer bed out both directions. sometimes this is a simple as an extra long piece of melamine or plywood with some extra wax on top for the board to slide on top of, or some people use roller top stands. These are nice but need to be precisely level with your planer bed.

View attachment 222633

Whats that saying about not being able to see the forest for the trees. I have 2 sleds I use with shims to flatten boards. One of them is long enough to use with the boards I am planning now. I got tired of ripping boards, running them over the jointer and gluing them back together. Started using the planner with sled and shims to flatten boards. Sold the jointer, bought a Freud glue line TS blade and have never missed the jointer.

 

[Mike Wilkins]

Is there a way to lock the cutter head after setting the height?
Try making lighter passes-these bench top planers are not designed to take huge bites of wood in a single pass.

 

[bob vaughan]

Sometimes the track mechanism that the cutterhead assembly rides in will wear at commonly used thicknesses. This allows the cutterhead assembly to rock a little.