Planer Sled!

T

Tman

Tman
User
I am out of ideas :)

I have a piece of oak that is 3.5" H x 5.5" W x 40" L. The oak was drying and it twisted along the process. Just alittle.

I have a planer and thought planer Sled here I come! I made a sled using 0.5" plywood that is rigid and straight. Shimmed the oak so no more rocking and glue the shimes. The planer removed from the stock but when I flip the planed faced on my table saw bed, it still rocks.

I thought its probably the heavy oak and the planer rollers bending the sled. So I removed the sled and just shimmed the oak again and glued the shimes to the oak piece. Ran it through and still rocking.

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? My next idea is to glue plywood runners to the side of the oak, so the oak is alittle lifted and leveled then plan it that way...

I also need the piece of oak as is for a project. Can't rip it.
 
O

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Could clean it up free hand on the band saw the run it over the jointer.
Then you could run through the planer.
Also, I would make the sled out of 3/4 so there is no flex in it
 
T

Tman

Tman
User
Oka said:
Could clean it up free hand on the band saw the run it over the jointer.
Then you could run through the planer.
Also, I would make the sled out of 3/4 so there is no flex in it
Click to expand...
Thanks @Oka I don't have a jointer. Was thinking of a laminate 3/4" for sled.
 
sawman101

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
Another method is to glue strips to each side that are slightly thicker than the stock, this will allow the cutters to remove stock without applying too much pressure to the piece of stock itself. Hope I made this understandable.
 
H

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Tman said:
I am out of ideas :)

I have a piece of oak that is 3.5" H x 5.5" W x 40" L. The oak was drying and it twisted along the process. Just alittle.

I have a planer and thought planer Sled here I come! I made a sled using 0.5" plywood that is rigid and straight. Shimmed the oak so no more rocking and glue the shimes. The planer removed from the stock but when I flip the planed faced on my table saw bed, it still rocks.

I thought its probably the heavy oak and the planer rollers bending the sled. So I removed the sled and just shimmed the oak again and glued the shimes to the oak piece. Ran it through and still rocking.

Any thoughts on what I am doing wrong? My next idea is to glue plywood runners to the side of the oak, so the oak is alittle lifted and leveled then plan it that way...

I also need the piece of oak as is for a project. Can't rip it.
Click to expand...
Good ideas posted here already - especially Charlie's offer.

A planer sled does need to be sufficently stiff to resist the forces of the rollers or as you have discovered, flex will negate the function. I have done this once or twice (not having a jointer), and have a 6' long (or so) frame of 2 2x4s on edge, with a few cross pieces to connect them (made when 2x4s were cheap!). I did not need 'perfect' faces, but this jig has worked when needed. Your planer needs enough height to accommodate the '3.5" plus' high sled, plus your material thickness, but that is not too difficult for mine. I don't know what lunchbox planers have as a max thickness; my ancient Foley Belsaw can handle 6" at least, more than what I have required so far.

Sound like Charlie is providing a great option - NCWW at work!
 
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Reactions: Oka
T

Tman

Tman
User
sawman101 said:
Another method is to glue strips to each side that are slightly thicker than the stock, this will allow the cutters to remove stock without applying too much pressure to the piece of stock itself. Hope I made this understandable.
Click to expand...
Thanks @sawman101 you mean like adding runners along the length of the stock?
 
T

Tman

Tman
User
Henry W said:
Good ideas posted here already - especially Charlie's offer.

A planer sled does need to be sufficently stiff to resist the forces of the rollers or as you have discovered, flex will negate the function. I have done this once or twice (not having a jointer), and have a 6' long (or so) frame of 2 2x4s on edge, with a few cross pieces to connect them (made when 2x4s were cheap!). I did not need 'perfect' faces, but this jig has worked when needed. Your planer needs enough height to accommodate the '3.5" plus' high sled, plus your material thickness, but that is not too difficult for mine. I don't know what lunchbox planers have as a max thickness; my ancient Foley Belsaw can handle 6" at least, more than what I have required so far.

Sound like Charlie is providing a great option - NCWW at work!
Click to expand...
Thanks @Henry W I think my planer would probably fit the stock and a 2x4 below it. I do need to figure out the problem with the sled. Maybe double up on plywood or stiffen it with frame made of 2x2s.

@Charlie definitely made NCWW proud!
 
T

Trey1984

Trey
User
It's not letting me upload the PDF. Don't know what I'm doing wrong but if you have fw subscription they have a article on a real nice sled.
 
H

Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
Trey1984 said:
It's not letting me upload the PDF. Don't know what I'm doing wrong but if you have fw subscription they have a article on a real nice sled.
Click to expand...
That FW article was the basis for mine, but mine is much more utilitarian and was built less generally and more for the need that day. I use screws under the stock and into the sled in order to level the stock - varying the amount of protrusion allows leveling.
 
sawman101

sawman101

Bruce Swanson
Corporate Member
Tman said:
Thanks @Henry W I think my planer would probably fit the stock and a 2x4 below it. I do need to figure out the problem with the sled. Maybe double up on plywood or stiffen it with frame made of 2x2s.

@Charlie definitely made NCWW proud!
Click to expand...
The 1/2" plywood is not stiff enough and will flex from the downward pressure of the feed rollers as the warped stock will distribute the pressure unevenly. Your warpage must be counteracted with the proper thickness of shims also, and a lip on the rear of the sled to keep the stock moving forward with sled travel.
 
O

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Planer cutters are typically on top.

Set on a level surface to attach your board, then once ready you just need to plane it. Usually the tracking rollers are on top as well
 
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