Planer Question

[robthowells]

I'm hoping someone here can give me the info I need as no one else I know is into woodworking.
Just bought a planer (Craftsman Professional 13 in. Bench Top Planer) because I got a bunch of rough cut ceder from a friends father who had it laying around for at least 15 years and wanted to get rid of it.
Anyway the question is when I run the boards through they come out nice but have a very very slight washboard effect to them. You can barely see it but sure can feel it. Is this what a finish is suppose to look like and do I need sand those out?? Or is this planer just not a very good one?
Thanks in advance!

 

[DaveO]

Robert, your results don't sound to be what you would typically get straight out of a planer. I am not familiar with the particular brand/model you have. What is causing that scalloping is the cutting action of the knives. More cuts per inch or a higher feed rate (both which you probably have no adjustment for) would help with the scalloping. You might try taking the stock to very close to final thickness and then making a final pass removing as little stock as possible. That might reduce some of the scalloping.
Generally the finish right out of a planer will take some final sanding to be perfectly smooth, but it shouldn't require starting with 80 grit.

Dave

 

[DaveO]

BTW, welcome to the site. Please drop by the Who We Are forum and give all a little intro to yourself and your interests.
Dave

 

[toolferone]

It might be that one of the knives is higher then the other one.

 

[DaveO]

It might be that one of the knives is higher then the other one.

If this is the planer that he is referring to - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921743000P?keyword=planer it has indexing knives, so that shouldn't be an issue...if the pins are aligned properly (things are made on Mondays and Fridays :roll::roll


Dave

 

[walnutjerry]

If this is the planer that he is referring to - http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921743000P?keyword=planer it has indexing knives, so that shouldn't be an issue...if the pins are aligned properly (things are made on Mondays and Fridays :roll::roll


Dave

with only 2 knives you will not get the cuts per inch as a 3 or more knife cutterhead. If you can slow the feed rate down it will increase the CPI.
I agree with Tom---------sounds like a knife is high, but as you said, that should not be an issue with this planer.

So----------????????????????

Jerry

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

You can get scalloping with any planer (even one with a Shelix though imperceptable). As others have said, fist to suspect is blade set- should not be an issue with your planer. I would still look at the blades to make sure they are seated properly, maybe flip one around. Second, slow your feed down to the slowest speed.

If that doesn't work, buy my 15" w/ the Shelix head. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

 

[cpowell]

If you can post a pic it would help us see how the scallops look. I haven't seen a benchtop planer with straight blades that doesn't make them. IIRC the appearance is more pronounced with a soft wood like cedar. You're somewhere around 50 cuts per inch with that planer. That should be the number of ridges per inch you would see.

The blade is removing stock in a circular motion as the stock advances. The result will always be a series of scallops but they should be VERY shallow.

I try to take passes of no more than 1/16 inch on soft wood. Hardest stock I take 1/32nd inch per pass. I second the "make a final pass with a shallow cut" approach - maybe 1/64th inch. Your planer will take heavier cuts but it will dull the blades more quickly and puts more mechanical wear on the planer.

You don't need to sand the entire board. After you cut the stock up into pieces for your project then you can either scrape or sand. 120 grit on a random orbit sander will clean that cedar up very quickly.

If you aren't face jointing the stock before planing then your stock may not be flat but I think what you're referring to is the tiny little ridges. The good news is, when you get older the ridges are too fine to see - of course you can still feel them. :lol: :lol:

Chuck

 

[robthowells]

Wow!!
Thanks to all who answered, never expected so many or so quick.
The planer is a single knife and there are no adjustments for speed or feed. 2 Pins holds the blade and no adjustments on it either. Scallops would be a good decsription and they are very shallow, hard to see but I can feel them.
I have been cutting about 1 16th max some times less but have not tried a 64th. Will give it a try. Already turned the blade around thinking it might be a dull one but no luck.
Do you all recommend I return the planer and try a new one??
I have read reviews on others that cost more but this one seemed good and in my price range.

Otherwise I happy with the boards and just wanted to know it this was normal. I have never used a wood plane before so I was unsure.

If you can post a pic it would help us see how the scallops look. I haven't seen a benchtop planer with straight blades that doesn't make them. IIRC the appearance is more pronounced with a soft wood like cedar. You're somewhere around 50 cuts per inch with that planer. That should be the number of ridges per inch you would see.

The blade is removing stock in a circular motion as the stock advances. The result will always be a series of scallops but they should be VERY shallow.

I try to take passes of no more than 1/16 inch on soft wood. Hardest stock I take 1/32nd inch per pass. I second the "make a final pass with a shallow cut" approach - maybe 1/64th inch. Your planer will take heavier cuts but it will dull the blades more quickly and puts more mechanical wear on the planer.

You don't need to sand the entire board. After you cut the stock up into pieces for your project then you can either scrape or sand. 120 grit on a random orbit sander will clean that cedar up very quickly.

If you aren't face jointing the stock before planing then your stock may not be flat but I think what you're referring to is the tiny little ridges. The good news is, when you get older the ridges are too fine to see - of course you can still feel them. :lol: :lol:

Chuck

 

[robthowells]

Some beautiful work at your site!! And such beautiful little girls you are a lucky man!
Thanks for the reply. Do you play the bagpipes too??

It might be that one of the knives is higher then the other one.

 

[Bas]

Are you sure it's only a single knife? I didn't think Craftsman had a single knife planer, especially not a 13" one. But what you describe is definitely not normal. You may want to try a different material and see if you get the same effect (e.g. pine or oak).

Your first experience with a new planer, with a sharp, clean knife should be "wow". If it's not, take it back. I don't think the Craftsman is a bad design, it could just be this particular unit.

 

[jeff...]

If that doesn't work, buy my 15" w/ the Shelix head. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

$30.03

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

That thing has to have two blades- two reasons I say this- first, the Sears website says both the 12 1/2" and 13" planers have two double edged blades, and second- I've never heard of a planer with only one blade and at the speeds these bench top planer cutter heads rotate, a single blade cutter head would likely cause an out of balance situation unless properly counter balanced which would be obvious. The reviews of the 13" were generally very good.

 

[robthowells]

You're right Bas it is a double blade, Boy do I feel dumb. Anyway I'll try some oak I and see what happens. Thanks

 

[robthowells]

I attached a photo but the scalloping is very slight and hard to see on the wood and even harder to see in the photo. You can just see it the attached photo at least on this machine.
So I take it you are saying this is normal and not an issue??
Thanks again

If you can post a pic it would help us see how the scallops look. I haven't seen a benchtop planer with straight blades that doesn't make them. IIRC the appearance is more pronounced with a soft wood like cedar. You're somewhere around 50 cuts per inch with that planer. That should be the number of ridges per inch you would see.

The blade is removing stock in a circular motion as the stock advances. The result will always be a series of scallops but they should be VERY shallow.

I try to take passes of no more than 1/16 inch on soft wood. Hardest stock I take 1/32nd inch per pass. I second the "make a final pass with a shallow cut" approach - maybe 1/64th inch. Your planer will take heavier cuts but it will dull the blades more quickly and puts more mechanical wear on the planer.

You don't need to sand the entire board. After you cut the stock up into pieces for your project then you can either scrape or sand. 120 grit on a random orbit sander will clean that cedar up very quickly.

If you aren't face jointing the stock before planing then your stock may not be flat but I think what you're referring to is the tiny little ridges. The good news is, when you get older the ridges are too fine to see - of course you can still feel them. :lol: :lol:

Chuck

 

[walnutjerry]

That appears to be a normal thing with a 2 knife head---------IMHO

Jerry

 

[Bas]

My eyesight is pretty decent, but I can't see any scalloping on the attached picture. I don't doubt that you can see it on the actual piece though.

Chuck already gave some excellent advice. If you haven't already done so, you should also wax the infeed and outfeed tables. With my planer, I've noticed that the smoother the stock moves through, the better the finish. A "sticky" or dirty table makes for a ragged cut.

Let us know how you make out with other species of wood. It could just be the fact that cedar is so soft. Luckily, that also makes it easy to get it smooth with a little sanding.

 

[jeff...]

This generally happens on my delta when the in feed and rollers are dirty (dusty) the board kinda skips as it goes through the planner it's worse the shallower I cut. So I took the planer apart and adjusted the rollers down as far as they would go. Now when it grabs a board you know it, plus no more slipping and smoother cutting operation. Might want to check and see if there is an adjustment on your as well, if not try keep the rollers clean per your user manual. I'm not a big fan of waxing bed or tops, silicon contaminates finishes it leaves a tall tales birds eye effect in the finish. You guys wouldn't want silicon contaminated lumber like that from me now would you?

Thanks

 

[robthowells]

Seemed to work better on some walnut and oak but I can still see some here and there. I use to be a machinist and sometimes I think I am just asking for more than wood can do. As a machinist I worked with tolerances of +/- 50000ths of an inch and had a pretty good feel for things if you know what i mean. Its hard getting use to +/- a 32nd when 50000ths was the norm. ANyhow thanks to all those who gave advice I think I'll just use some 120 grit and all will be ok.

My eyesight is pretty decent, but I can't see any scalloping on the attached picture. I don't doubt that you can see it on the actual piece though.

Chuck already gave some excellent advice. If you haven't already done so, you should also wax the infeed and outfeed tables. With my planer, I've noticed that the smoother the stock moves through, the better the finish. A "sticky" or dirty table makes for a ragged cut.

Let us know how you make out with other species of wood. It could just be the fact that cedar is so soft. Luckily, that also makes it easy to get it smooth with a little sanding.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

This generally happens on my delta when the in feed and rollers are dirty (dusty) the board kinda skips as it goes through the planner it's worse the shallower I cut. So I took the planer apart and adjusted the rollers down as far as they would go. Now when it grabs a board you know it, plus no more slipping and smoother cutting operation. Might want to check and see if there is an adjustment on your as well, if not try keep the rollers clean per your user manual. I'm not a big fan of waxing bed or tops, silicon contaminates finishes it leaves a tall tales birds eye effect in the finish. You guys wouldn't want silicon contaminated lumber like that from me now would you?

Thanks

I won't happen with your new $2000 15" planer w/Shelix :rolf: :rolf: