Pipe for air compressor??

[Splinter]

Vol. 15 Issue 90 of Shop Notes has a nice article on how to install a copper piping in the work shop. It states not to use size "M" though.

 

[TracyP]

Soldering copper is actually an easy enough process to learn. Just be careful with the torch close to wood. DAMHIKT:rotflm:

 

[FredP]

Thanks for all the replies and advice. I have ruled out PVC, PEX, black and galvanized pipe. So I guess that leaves copper and air hose. Copper 3/4" "M" pipe at Home Depot was $1.50 a foot today and air hose at HF was much cheaper. I like the look and neatness of using copper but it cost more and I don't have any experience soldering copper so I am still undecided but at least I have narrowed the choices.

Thanks again.

If you go with hose I would suggest a thick quality hose for the main run. I had a good hose to begin with and got the fittings at HF. they sell a ??piece kit that has tee's and connectors to make up 4 drops. [I think!] I had a dual tank portable compressor that the motor died on so I used the tanks to eliminate moisture in the lines. BTW hoses dont condensate like metal pipe does. maybe some but not nearly as much. I ran a hose from my big compressor tho the smaller tanks that I set up high. I put a moisture trap at the end of the line just before it conects to the bottom tank of the portable. then I brought the main line out of the top tank.to that I conected a splitter. On one both sides of the splitter I connected regulators. one is set to 100 PSI andthe other is set around 40 PSI for spraying. My compressor puts out 175 PSI and its too much for the air tools I have. if I need more I can ajust the reg. from there I ran a line through the cieling joists. when I got to a place for a drop I cut the hose and put a tee in. you can put in as many as you need wherever you want. adding new drops later is as easy as finding the ladder!:gar-La; no soldering or threading of pipe needed. I used the spring type hoses for drops. I will probly do something different later because they stretch out with use and get in the way sometimes. setting up the compressor the way I did I get no moisture in the lines. the water trap has only been drained once in 3 years and only had about 2 drops in it. I drain the tank regularly. also you should shut off the compressor each day or when you wont be in the shop. hoses do break. mine did once.

 

[DaveD]

No, read some of the previous entries.

 

[woodguy1975]

I used 3/4" SCH 80 PVC, but I would recommend this..

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/

You can buy the components from Mcmaster Carr as well. It is cheaper than PVC, pressure rated, and easier to install. I'm using it in my next shop for sure. I'll probably pipe it in the walls for a clean install.

Good luck,

John

 

[Travis Porter]

You don't need to run 3/4 for all of it. 3/4 is more than big enough for a trunk line and then 1/2 off of the trunk to your connectors. For me, all I have run is 1/2 inch pipe, no 3/4 and I really haven't had any issues. If you are doing an aircraft hanger like Scott, bigger is going to be better.

I will say I have the automatic hose reels and automatic electric cord reels in the ceiling and I love them. I strongly encourage you to use them if you can.

 

[Splinter]

I used 3/4" SCH 80 PVC, but I would recommend this..

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/

You can buy the components from Mcmaster Carr as well. It is cheaper than PVC, pressure rated, and easier to install. I'm using it in my next shop for sure. I'll probably pipe it in the walls for a clean install.

Good luck,

John

Ummm,,,Interesting product.

Has anyone here used this product?

 

[Travis Porter]

Very interesting. I have never seen it before, but it looks quite impressive.

 

[JimmyC]

Has anyone used Type M copper for air lines ? It's not recommended for air lines. I've got about 200' and was going to use it as secondary air (under 60 psi) to blow off machines.

TIA

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Has anyone used Type M copper for air lines ? It's not recommended for air lines. I've got about 200' and was going to use it as secondary air (under 60 psi) to blow off machines.

TIA

Who doesn't recommended grade M for compressed air lines?

Here is what the Copper Tube Handbook says:

"Compressed Air—Use copper tube of Types K, L or M determined by the rated internal working pressures as shown in Table 3. Brazed joints are recommended."

Since 3/4" grade M is rated at 700 psi and 1/2" almost as much, I don't see why not! And you don't have to braze it either. See my earlier post for the link.

All my 175 psi air lines are grade M copper.

 

[woodguy1975]

Ummm,,,Interesting product.

Has anyone here used this product?

I'm an engineer and have installed a number of large manufacturing lines. We used this kind of tubing system all over them. It is great and super easy to install and reconfigure. The 1/2" is good up to something like 15 CFM. If you need more flow than that you can step up to their Aluminum piping system for the main runs or just use black iron, copper, or whatever. You can buy the tubing and fittings from vendors like Air Components or Mcmaster Carr, but pricing it out component wise for what they provde rapidair is a very cost effective solution. Those Aluminum headers are a fraction of the cost compared to what I could find from other suppliers.

Good Luck,

John

 

[JimmyC]

Who doesn't recommended grade L for compressed air lines?

Here is what the Copper Tube Handbook says:

"Compressed Air—Use copper tube of Types K, L or M determined by the rated internal working pressures as shown in Table 3. Brazed joints are recommended."

Since 3/4" grade L is rated at 700 psi and 1/2" almost as much, I don't see why not! And you don't have to braze it either. See my earlier post for the link.

All my 175 psi air lines are grade M copper.

Alan,
Page 20 of the Copper Tube Handbook only has compressed air for use with Types K & L.

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

Alan,
Page 20 of the Copper Tube Handbook only has compressed air for use with Types K & L.

I guess it is how you read it- on pp 20, compressed air is not listed (might have been an omission), under grade M, but nowhere does it say that it should NOT be used for compressed air, in fact my quote from the handbook says the opposite. As I said in my first post the working pressure rating of grade M far exceeds the requirement.

The only possible disadvantage (not a danger or hazard) with the thin wall grade M, it that it is easier to puncture- easier than grades K or L, but it is NOT EASY to puncture. You will pierce any of the grades if you put a nail or drywall screw into them.

You can mix grades and switch between drawn and annealed if you have a situation where it is easier to bend it rather than use fittings.

Frankly, for suitability, ease of use, availability of pipe and fittings at local vendors, and cost, grade M is the only way to go IMHO.

 

[JimmyC]

Alan,
It sounds good to me. I picked up, through CL, 20- 1/2" x 10' lengths for $40 so I will use it and some 3/4" for main headers. The longest run that I'll need is about 60', so I'm hoping that it works. But either way I'll be running 3/4" for the heavy use air tools.

Thanks.

 

[JimD]

The rapidair system looks good to me. Have to think about it for awhile but possible Christmas request. I have been wanting hookups on both sides of the shop instead of having to run a long flexible line across the shop and I also would like to put a drop in the other garage. I used the calculator of their website to check airflow. They say you can get over 10cfm at only 40 psi through 100 foot of their 1/2 hose (3/8 id). They calculate over 25 cfm at 150 psi. My compressor will only supply about 5 cfm so I think it should be big enough for me, even with more drag from the flexible hose.

Jim

 

[Alan in Little Washington]

The rapidair system looks good to me. Have to think about it for awhile but possible Christmas request. I have been wanting hookups on both sides of the shop instead of having to run a long flexible line across the shop and I also would like to put a drop in the other garage. I used the calculator of their website to check airflow. They say you can get over 10cfm at only 40 psi through 100 foot of their 1/2 hose (3/8 id). They calculate over 25 cfm at 150 psi. My compressor will only supply about 5 cfm so I think it should be big enough for me, even with more drag from the flexible hose.

Jim

Since my compressor is at garage level and the piping for my second floor shop runs along the garage ceiling, it was easy to put a drop in the garage with a regulator to fill bicycle and car tires.

 

[woodguy1975]

They calculate over 25 cfm at 150 psi. My compressor will only supply about 5 cfm so I think it should be big enough for me, even with more drag from the flexible hose.

Jim

You'll love the install. They even give you the cutter for the tubing. All you have to do is cut and push in... done. I honestly tried to price out the system from parts via Mcmaster Carr and Air Components and couldn't match their price. The nice thing if you want to do something special you can always buy components to suite you need since everything is standard pushin fittings.

Good Luck,

John