pipe clamps

[daver828]

Anyone use them? Are they as good or at least in the same ball park with k-model clamps? It would seem easy to just have different size pipes to adjust to whatever project. Would love to hear thoughts on them.

Also, are 1/2" size heavy duty enough to use for edge joining 3/4 boards? Or are they more for picture frame projects, or lighter duty?

Thanks.

 

[DaveO]

I use them, but generally for larger projects when I don't have parallel jaw (k-model) clamps available in the length. They apply more than adequate clamping pressure and will work fine for just about every application. You have to be careful about the pipe staining high tannin woods like Oak. I like to press my stock down on the bar of the clamp to make sure that it's flat. That is hard to do with pipe clamps unless you treat the bar with something to block the staining. I only use 3/4" pipe, I think there would be too much flex with a smaller dia. pipe. My biggest beef with pipe clamps it that they make it difficult to stand the glue-up on end once it's been clamped up. The twist handles don't really give a stable base unlike the parallel jaw clamps.

MTCW,
Dave

 

[Mike Davis]

Well, I can't pay the price that Bessie wants for one clamp when I can get three or four for the same money on sale. They do the job well enough for me and I read somewhere that they are still the strongest clamp you can buy. I think the only one strong enough to clamp 8/4 table top glue ups.

If you have the money and do mostly smaller stuff like boxes, drawers and cabinet doors then the bessies are great.

If you need lots of clamps, long distances, lots of pressure and live on a budget the pipe clamps are the thing.

 

[JimmyC]

Bang for the buck, they're still the best clamps around. That being said, I wouldn't use 1/2" for anything large and stay with 3/4" clamps. I'm with Dave in that the pipe clamps are very hard to use in certain instance such as laying down while glueing boards up. but realize that they had been one of the only games in town for a long time and alot of quality furniture has been made with them.

Good Luck.

 

[PChristy]

I have used them in the past for smaller things and they served well - I agree with the rest - best for the money:icon_thum

 

[boxxmaker]

I use to use them when I made furniture and for the price you can't beat em.I loved em and I think they do a great job.I had 1/2 for small work an 3/4 for large work.Once I had em lined up I would slide thin stickers that I had covered with masking tape under the bars,so they wouldn't stick to the wood.

 

[PeteQuad]

In general I think you will want the 3/4" unless you are doing light duty clamping. It isn't much more expensive and is a lot stronger. I personally love pipe clamps and use the Pony (Jorgensen) brand. They are really easy to tighten and are fairly cheap for any size. I actually use pipe clamps as bench vises as shown here: http://www.blumtool.com/pages/benchhorse.html

That said, if the prices were the same as the parallel type, I would probably have less pipe clamps and more parallel clamps (but I would still have some pipe clamps).

 

[Glennbear]

I have used 1/2" pipe clamps for years to glue up 3/4" stock. I would just caution not to use galvanized pipe as sometimes the jaws will slip on the softer zinc coating. To eliminate the possible staining when clamping high tannic woods you can run some blue tape on the pipe or slip on lengths of split foam pipe insulation. :wsmile:

 

[Bas]

They're not as convenient as parallel clamps (or even ordinary bar clamps), but they can provide terrific clamping pressure. And per inch, you can't beat them on price. I have a few six footers I keep handy when I'm clamping something large. They go on sale at Harbor Freight every so often, not the best quality but I don't use them a whole lot. I added some self-adhesive cork to the jaws so they don't leave any marks on the edges.

For smaller jobs, 1/2" clamps should work fine, but that seems like false economy. The beauty of the 3/4" clamps is that they won't flex even with really long pieces of pipe. So if you stick with just that size, you have a lot more flexibility. And if your pipe is threaded on both ends, you can use a connector to make even longer clamps.

Oh, and it helps if you wax the pipes. Several coats.

 

[JimmyC]

Another trick to prevent staining is to buy a plastic sleeve that slips over shower curtain rods, I bougt mine for $1.19 for a six ft. length, and cut them into 6-12" pcs.. whenyou know the length of the clamp you can slide them ove the 3/4" black pipe.

 

[Tarhead]

I do long glue-ups so rarely I can't justify the cost or space and use 3/4" pipe clamps coupled together. If you go by Lowe's lighting department and look in the markdown bin you can sometimes find 3/4" ceiling fan extensions for real cheap. I got a couple of 4ft sections yesterday for $3 each. These are threaded on one end and have a nice smooth finish (brass, stainless steel, etc) which won't cause staining. Get the other end threaded in the plumbing dept (if they'll do it) and some pipe couplers and you can get some long clamps.

 

[Ozzie-x]

+1 for pipe clamps are OK. I can't say much that hasn't already been said :crossedlips: . I like the besseys, But I have a bunch of pipe clamps and it was all we used before bessey (or any other cow :eusa_doh came along. Stay with Jorgenson 3/4 if you can afford them but 1/2 will work fine but they will flex if you romp down on them too hard. Just remember its not necessary to try and squeeze the wood in two. I've seen some of the chinese made pipe clamps that didn't work well and were pretty cheesy, so avoid those.

Someone else was correct, don't use galvanized pipe, use black iron. Clean the pipe and just shoot it with lacquer and wax it. Granted the clamp teeth will eat the lacquer but keep waxing it and the wax will fill in these "places". Or you can put wax paper over the pipes or bars. Or you can put strips of wood down on the clamps before placing your work. I do this on the besseys to avoid marks on my workpiece from the serrations on the bars :realmad:. Pipe clamps or besseys I always use wooden spreader blocks between jaws and workpiece to spread the force and to avoid clamp marks on the workpiece.

 

[CrealBilly]

I've had Pony 3/4 bar clamps for many years and really like them.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B0000224C9/ref=sr_1_olp_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1240668334&sr=1-1

Avoid the ones made in china because they suck.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=31255

 

[woodlaker2]

Ditto what's been said re: bar clamps. Like Jeff I've used the Pony clamps and use black pipe. Back when I got my pipe HP cut them to the lengths I wanted and threaded them on each end. I keep plastic caps on the threads when not using the clamps to avoid banging them around and to cut down on rusting. Great for long length glue ups.

 

[MrAudio815]

Another trick to prevent staining is to buy a plastic sleeve that slips over shower curtain rods, I bougt mine for $1.19 for a six ft. length, and cut them into 6-12" pcs.. whenyou know the length of the clamp you can slide them ove the 3/4" black pipe.

I would have to say that is one great idea for the pipe clamps. Thanks Jimmy!!! Oh and what did you make out of that MDF I gave you?

And last year when they had the $10 off $25 dollar purchase at lowes and the sale on the older bessy clamps I got the large 50"ers for $31 plus tax

And I also bought two set of these at $14.98 x 2 = 29.96 -$10 = 19.96 plus tax. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=202609-52800-BPC-H34&lpage=none

It was an awesome year. Now just waiting for those $10 off $25 dollar purchase at lowes again, it's the only way to buy! :icon_cheers

Good info, thanks for asking the question!:icon_thum