pipe clamps!!!

[Glennbear]

I have HF and craftsman clamps, and have an assortment of pipe lengths from 1' to 4' with connectors to make the best length for the job. I use black pipe with galvanized connectors. The connectors stand off the work piece to prevent marking, and the black pipe does not have the slippage problem. The zinc on the galvanized pipe is soft and will let the tail piece creep if you have the type that uses the serrated cam piece to clamp in. The Pony type clamp with the layered spring tabs probably will bite into either type. However, if you can get some old galvanized cheap or free, and have the serrated cam type tail piece, the galvanizing can be removed with a disk sander and 34 grit disk quickly down the strip where the clamp digs in. A quick spray with rattle can paint prevents most staining.

Another way to get the zinc off is to brush on a solution of Sodium Hydroxide NaOH (AKA lye, quick lime, draino crystals, etc). If using this wear gloves and eye protection as its the same stuff the stockyards used to use to dissolve all the unwanted remains from the cattle and hogs. It will eat your skin, and can cause an irreversible degenerative blindness if splashed into the eyes. First aid is to rinse with copious amounts of clean water immediately for 5 to 15 minutes.

I use 3/4 because 1/2 will bow easily in the longer lengths. I also hot gun glue tabs of wood on the jaws to prevent marring, altho some also use credit cards, etc.

If using electrical metal conduit, you need to use the rigid metallic conduit (RMC), not the intermediate (IMC) or EMT (electrical metallic conduit). The IMC and EMT are too thin walled.

Go

Regarding jaw pads, until I recently scored a large quanity of leather scraps, I have been using old belts cut into pieces to glue unto jaws :wsmile:

 

[Bas]

Regarding jaw pads, until I recently scored a large quanity of leather scraps, I have been using old belts cut into pieces to glue unto jaws :wsmile:

Leather belts - that's a great idea! I've been using thin self-adhesive cork, you can buy it at a crafts store like Michaels. Main thing I like about it is that it's cheap, easy to replace, no extra adhesive needed etc. But, it's not very durable.

 

[JimD]

I use 3 and 4 foot pipe clamps with 1/2 galvanized pipe and 4 and 6 foot pipe clamps with 3/4 black pipe. My 3 and 4 foot clamps have threads on both ends and some have unions on them so they can be extended. Extended clamps cannot exert a lot of pressure but can still be handy at times. 3 and 4 foot clamps of 1/2 inch pipe can exert enough pressure for me but if I join them to make a 6 foot clamp it will only exert a little pressure. Extended 3/4 is much sturdier and 6 foot pipe clamps on 3/4 are even better. My conclusion is that 4 foot is the maximum for 1/2 pipe (and it will bow some at 4 feet).

My 1/2 inch pipe clamps have rear jaws with a spring loaded searated edge piece. I have to swat them with a mallet to get them to bite. Kind of a pain but not a huge deal. My 3/4 are both the searated edge type and the multi-thin plate at an angle type. Both grip well on the black pipe. Some of my pipe clamps are harbor freight and they work as well as the others I have, some of which are craftsman and I don't really remember all the brands I've purchased. I do not see any significant difference between brands. The single searated piece in the rear piece is easier to move than the multi-thin pieces at an angle type, however.

I have read that plastic shower rod covers make good pieces to prevent staining. I personally do not worry about it. If I am glueing up a table top or other large piece, I know I will be spending some time with the belt sander flattening it and that will remove any minor staining. I lift the wood a little sometimes and try and get the clamps off in an hour to minimize the depth of any staining, however. I seem to get staining with both my plated and my black clamps. I would get black pipe because of cost and because the rear clamp seems to stay put better.

Jim