Pimp my saw

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Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
One of my New Year's resolutions was to get serious on table saw safety. :saw:
(This post is also a stealth gloat)

I must admit I removed the stock splitter from my saw after just one attempt at using it, since it was very difficult to line it up properly with the blade. I have never experienced kickback, but I knew it'd be a matter of time. Also, I always had difficulty with ripping thin strips of stock, it either felt unsafe or totally inaccurate.

So, the first thing I did was buy the MJ splitter kit. Twelve plastic splitters (6 thin kerf, six full kerf), two drill jigs and two dill bits, for $35. It doesn't look like much, but those little splitters really work! Plus, you can install and remove them in oh, ONE SECOND. I put a small block of wood on the end of the fence where I can stash it when I crosscut, so no more excuses!

Of course, you need Zero Clearance Inserts for this kind of splitter. Some half inch MDF, a bandsaw, and router bit and I was in business. (I wanted to get one of those fancy [strike]phonetic[/strike] [strike]phlegmonic[/strike] [strike]UNLV[/strike] [strike]YMMV[/strike] plastic inserts, but it turns out, they don't make those for the Jet ProShop! I almost bought the one that fits their contractor saw, but fortunately checked with Jet first. Apparantly ZCI means Zero Common Intelligence. It's a different size!!!!! Why would you do that :eusa_doh:? Reminds me of the round/ square filter thing on Apollo 13. Never mind...) The drilling jig MJ supplies makes it really easy lining up the holes for the splitter.

I bought a pair of featherboards from Rockler, they were on sale for cheap. Absolutely terrific design, easy to adjust, and they work on the bandsaw and router table too. Also got two Grr-rippers, probably the best accessory I've bought for the shop so far. First class construction, very flexible, and I've never felt safer ripping thin stock. I must admit I was a little hesitant to spend so much money on what is essentially a glorified push stick, now I wish I had bought them earlier.

Finally, I built a crosscut sled, something large enough for crosscutting 2' panels. Since I don't have a large extension table, the sled really helps with minor safety concerns - like preventing work pieces from falling off the table. :eyeslam:You know, minor stuff.

(Now, if only _hand tools_ came with more safety features. So far, my shop injuries have come from chisels, box cutters, hand saws and tape measures.....)
 

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mcoston2

New User
michael
Yep, I'm going to have to try one of those splitters. Can't use the one it came with either. And that crosscut sled looks great. Good job.
:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap
 
J

jeff...

Great work Bas :icon_thum Is that official 3/4" BORG RO plywood I see there?
 

woodArtz

New User
Bob
Great projects Bas! :eusa_clap Have you been getting help from DaveO's little helpers? You have been steadily knocking out some very cool shop projects. I have been thinking about those exact same items for my shop... we need to talk. :-D
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Great work Bas :icon_thum Is that official 3/4" BORG RO plywood I see there?
Now _how_ did you determine that??!?!? Scary! I know there are no barcodes on the sled to give it away! But, even though I bought it at Home Depot, I can't really call it BORG plywood - this stuff was dead flat, had no voids, and the veneer didn't come off when I looked at it funny. (I was as amazed when I bought it as you are now!)

Great projects Bas! :eusa_clap Have you been getting help from DaveO's little helpers? You have been steadily knocking out some very cool shop projects. I have been thinking about those exact same items for my shop... we need to talk. :-D
Why don't you have your people call my people. Then we can talk without them interrupting us. :spinny:
 
J

jeff...

Several years ago I built a cross cut sled - it worked well of for a while. Right up untill I had panels to cut that were too wide to fit in the sled, I tossed it in the burn pile after that.
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Looks good Bas. How do the push blocks work?
Each Grr-ripper has three pads covered in non-slip material. This stuff is quite a bit better than the normal rubber that comes on push blocks. You couldn't make it slip even if you used gorilla snot :) The pads are 1/4", 1/2" and 1" wide, the center 1" pad is adjustable. Basically, you create a tunnel between two pads through which the saw blade can pass. You then use the gripper to hold both parts of the workpiece to the table. That's the real innovative part. You don't even need a splitter, since there is no danger of the kerf binding.

Of course, you can also use them as "regular" push blocks on the jointer, router etc.

I ripped quarter inch strips off a 6'x1"x3/4" piece of poplar yesterday, no mess, no burning, no saw marks, and no sweaty palms trying to keep the stock against the fence. With two grippers, you can do a hand-over-hand method like you use on the jointer.

There's more - the handle adjusts so you can change where you apply pressure, there is a stabilizing plate, mounting points for custom jigs and spacers etc. It's pretty versatile. Plus, if the stock you're ripping is too wide for the gripper, it means it's safe enough to feed it by hand :lol: Common sense is a wonderful thing.
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
Each Grr-ripper has three pads covered in non-slip material. This stuff is quite a bit better than the normal rubber that comes on push blocks. You couldn't make it slip even if you used gorilla snot :)

Personally, Iwould have thought of gorilla snot as being tacky, but what do I know, I don't have any personal experience:rolf:.

Jimmy:)
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Where'd you get that kit?
I got both the splitter and Grr-rippers on Amazon. For the latter, I got the "deluxe" package - two grippers and the DVD (which is pretty helpful, but really should be a free download....). There is also a "supreme" package which has some additional accessories.

Neither package is a real bargain - the basic gripper costs $50, so the $107 combo package saves you all of $3. The advanced gripper is $70, the $150 combo package saves you nothing.

Maybe that's the sign of a good product. By comparison, I don't buy anything at HF unless it's on regular sale or I have a coupon.
 

WoodWrangler

Jeremy
Senior User
Nice work! I too use the Grrriper and really like it. It's an expensive piece of plastic & rubber, but makes the questionable cuts feel much more comfortable and safe.

Question - What are you using, if anything, to keep the ZCI's you made in the slot on the table -- or does friction alone keep it in place? One thing I've head about -- but thankfully never experienced -- is with ZCI's getting snagged on the blade and actually being the object of the kickback.

I need to make a couple for my saw, as the SawStop comes with one but it's more like a near-ZCI than an actual ZCI. :crybaby2:
 

Jim Murphy

New User
Fern HollowMan
One thing I've head about -- but thankfully never experienced -- is with ZCI's getting snagged on the blade and actually being the object of the kickback.
I need to make a couple for my saw, as the SawStop comes with one but it's more like a near-ZCI than an actual ZCI. :crybaby2:

Couldn't you just rub the ZCI with a hotdog or something to keep it from kicking the ZCI out?:twitcy:
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Question - What are you using, if anything, to keep the ZCI's you made in the slot on the table -- or does friction alone keep it in place?
Friction only. The stock insert has a thingamajig that you can push in, that holds the insert in place in the opening. But, I found that removing my own ZCI took the same amount of force as the stock one, so I don't think it adds much. I did think about using a small spring, but it seems overkill.

I think there are two key safety precautions:
(1) Raise the blade all the way up when cutting the slot in the ZCI. That way, you don't run the risk of the blade snagging the insert when you're using it at a new height for the first time.
(2) Make sure the ZCI is flush with the table, and doesn't wobble. I used some allen screws to level it, but it would have been easier with masking tape (I only needed about 1/64"). If one of the front corners were to dip down when feeding a work piece, I could see the ZCI getting caught on the back of the blade.

I had not heard about people being injured being ZCIs being thrown. I'm sure it's happened, but it's probably very rare.
 
M

McRabbet

I'm amazed! I'm the 16th post on this thread and no one has granted you the obligatory [pie]YOU [strike]PSUC[/strike] oops [strike]SUQUE[/strike] naw [strike]PSHUCKS[/strike] egad [glow="red"]S-U-C-K[/glow] [/pie]

yeah, that's it!

PS -- I've got some of the MicroSplitters, too -- I need to install them...
 

Dutchman

New User
Buddy
Bas,
Based on the progression and content of your posts since you joined, you seem to have really grown in your woodworking knowledge. This site kind of does that you know?
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Knowledge - yes. Talent - no. Bad timing on your post! I've decided I'm no longer going to use rabbet joints. Only butt joints. That way, I won't get confused on which ledge sits on what and how that affects the width of each piece. So you don't discover your back panel is 1/2" too wide midway through assembly.

:BangHead::BangHead::BangHead:

(Sorry - complete assembly failure this evening. It was just scrap plywood for a shop project, I guess it's now REAL scrap....ticked off since I spent all that time trying out edge banding it....mutter grumble grumble)

Two steps forward, one step back. But you're right, there are tons of really smart people on this site, and all of them more than willing to teach and share. :icon_thum:icon_thum

OK, make that good timing on your post. I feel better already! :)
 

DavidF

New User
David
1/2" too wide is better than 1/2" too narrow, perhaps you're not so stupid after all? quite stupid, but not "very" stupid???:lol::lol:
 

Bas

Recovering tool addict
Bas
Corporate Member
Well, I was being nice to myself. The back panel is too wide...but it really means the shelves and side panels are too short :)

I could trim the back panel, but there is no way I can make the rabbet with the shelves in the way....quicker to start over. They really need to invent a brad nail puller!
 
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