Does anyone know where I could find any good resources on painting wood? Am I gonna have to break down and buy a paint sprayer or does anyone have any other good techniques that will work?
Painting wood ...
- Thread starter Boilermaker
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Scott,
I don't really understand what you want to know about painting wood. Any method will work, brush, roller, spray, etc. Using latex paint you will want to sand after the primer or first coat of paint because of grain raise. Three coats will give the best and smoothest result.
Rob
I don't really understand what you want to know about painting wood. Any method will work, brush, roller, spray, etc. Using latex paint you will want to sand after the primer or first coat of paint because of grain raise. Three coats will give the best and smoothest result.
Rob
After re-reading my original post, i can see how my question is confusing. What I'm trying to accomplish is maintaining a smooth surface like what you would see on any type of other wood finish (Danish Oil, Shellac, etc). The problem i've had with painting wood in the past is that you can clearly see either the brush marks or the roller creates small imperfections, and it's not smooth. So my question is, how do I get around this?
Spraying is the easiest way (not easy, until you get experienced at it and have the right equipment, but easier to get what you are asking than any other method) to apply a smooth coating. If spraying, lacquer is the most forgiving, easiest to correct mistakes, and requires the least expensive equipment (i.e air source). Oil based is next with water based being the most difficult and most expensive from air source stand-point).
The trick to brush application of oil based paints is to use a good quality bristle brush, always end you stroke going back into the wet mating surface while lifting the brush, and keeping the surface wet enough to allow the paint to flow after it is applied. After you have applied the coat to an area, do not touch it until after it dries. Once it starts to cure, even if just on the surface, any contact will mar the finish. Depending on the size of the surface you are painting, along with temp and humidity, this can be very difficult.
It requires careful planning on how you will progress across the piece corner to opposing corner while still fully coating the edges and always having a side and end wet surface to brush back into. What works on at 60 degrees may not work when it is 70.
Also, you need a lot of paint in the brush. You do not wipe it against the can edge or against a "rubber band stretched across the middle of the can" as is advised on many DIY shows. Dip the brush in half way to the length of the bristles and lightly tap the tip against the side of the paint can, then apply the paint. As soon as the brush starts to drag, get more paint. When the brush drags, you are not applying enough paint for it to flow out and eliminate the brush marks. When using a roller, when you have to press harder to get a full wet coat, you need more paint.
This is not to hard on a flat surface, but is very difficult on a vertical surface to get just the right amount to flow and not run later.
I have never been able to get water based (latex) paint brushmark free on a piece over two brush-widths wide because it dries too fast on the surface. Lacquer does not brush well at all, but can be sanded/polished out. I do not recommend brushing lacquer unless you get training on the oriental method of applying it, which involves preparation/mixing the coating as much as application. For a small piece, you can use a blush retarding thinner (slower drying) which will help it flow but increases run tendency.
Bottom line, brush or roller, always finish your stroke back into wet paint while lifting it off the surface.
If you want it smoother than a fine foam roller will apply, you probably will need to go to spray.
Whatever the coating, you need to apply a primer or sealer coat(s) (enough so no more is being absorbed into the wood) and let that fully dry before applying any additional coats.
JMTCW
Go
The trick to brush application of oil based paints is to use a good quality bristle brush, always end you stroke going back into the wet mating surface while lifting the brush, and keeping the surface wet enough to allow the paint to flow after it is applied. After you have applied the coat to an area, do not touch it until after it dries. Once it starts to cure, even if just on the surface, any contact will mar the finish. Depending on the size of the surface you are painting, along with temp and humidity, this can be very difficult.
It requires careful planning on how you will progress across the piece corner to opposing corner while still fully coating the edges and always having a side and end wet surface to brush back into. What works on at 60 degrees may not work when it is 70.
Also, you need a lot of paint in the brush. You do not wipe it against the can edge or against a "rubber band stretched across the middle of the can" as is advised on many DIY shows. Dip the brush in half way to the length of the bristles and lightly tap the tip against the side of the paint can, then apply the paint. As soon as the brush starts to drag, get more paint. When the brush drags, you are not applying enough paint for it to flow out and eliminate the brush marks. When using a roller, when you have to press harder to get a full wet coat, you need more paint.
This is not to hard on a flat surface, but is very difficult on a vertical surface to get just the right amount to flow and not run later.
I have never been able to get water based (latex) paint brushmark free on a piece over two brush-widths wide because it dries too fast on the surface. Lacquer does not brush well at all, but can be sanded/polished out. I do not recommend brushing lacquer unless you get training on the oriental method of applying it, which involves preparation/mixing the coating as much as application. For a small piece, you can use a blush retarding thinner (slower drying) which will help it flow but increases run tendency.
Bottom line, brush or roller, always finish your stroke back into wet paint while lifting it off the surface.
If you want it smoother than a fine foam roller will apply, you probably will need to go to spray.
Whatever the coating, you need to apply a primer or sealer coat(s) (enough so no more is being absorbed into the wood) and let that fully dry before applying any additional coats.
JMTCW
Go
Also, Ditto everything that Mike said!! :eusa_danc:eusa_danc
Mike: Didn't know anyone else knew about the motor oil trick. Oh well, the secrets out now!!:-D:-D (I have some camels' hair sign painting brushes that have been stored that way after use since the 1970's and they still are in great shape. He advised me of this when he 'willed" them to me way back when. Works good on my Purdy's, too).
Go
Mike: Didn't know anyone else knew about the motor oil trick. Oh well, the secrets out now!!:-D:-D (I have some camels' hair sign painting brushes that have been stored that way after use since the 1970's and they still are in great shape. He advised me of this when he 'willed" them to me way back when. Works good on my Purdy's, too).
Go
What everyone else said. Plus, don't make the mistake of buying a high quality finish paint but starting with el cheapo primer. Don't skimp on that.
- Make sure the workpiece and paint are at 70-75 degrees. It flows much better that way. If it's very warm, it might dry too fast, so thin with a little water (latex) or paint thinner (oil).
- Use rollers for large surfaces. If necessary, do the edges first ("cutting in"), then roll the flat area.
- If possible, rotate the piece so the surface is horizontal.
- Use lots and lots and lots and lots of light.
- Don't overbrush. Load up the brush with paint, and apply it with smooth strokes. If there is a minor imperfection, don't sweat it. Let it dry and sand the affected area to correct. That's much better than messing up the entire area to get one tiny nib.
- Let the piece dry thoroughly before sanding and the next coat. With some paints, you can recoat relatively quickly, but it will still take a long time for the paint to truly harden (one to three weeks). So you might as well let each coat dry for a full 24 hours. Nothing is worse than having a "drip" spread all over the place because you sanded it while it was still wet.
- Painting takes practice. If you don't want to mess up your fine woodworking pieces, you can come over to my place and practice on the window trim. If you bring your own paint, I'll even let you do that for free!
I've never used a sprayer, but it's no panacea. From what I've seen, the cheaper ones tend to clog easily, and don't distribute the paint evenly. There is a lot of technique there as well.
- Make sure the workpiece and paint are at 70-75 degrees. It flows much better that way. If it's very warm, it might dry too fast, so thin with a little water (latex) or paint thinner (oil).
- Use rollers for large surfaces. If necessary, do the edges first ("cutting in"), then roll the flat area.
- If possible, rotate the piece so the surface is horizontal.
- Use lots and lots and lots and lots of light.
- Don't overbrush. Load up the brush with paint, and apply it with smooth strokes. If there is a minor imperfection, don't sweat it. Let it dry and sand the affected area to correct. That's much better than messing up the entire area to get one tiny nib.
- Let the piece dry thoroughly before sanding and the next coat. With some paints, you can recoat relatively quickly, but it will still take a long time for the paint to truly harden (one to three weeks). So you might as well let each coat dry for a full 24 hours. Nothing is worse than having a "drip" spread all over the place because you sanded it while it was still wet.
- Painting takes practice. If you don't want to mess up your fine woodworking pieces, you can come over to my place and practice on the window trim. If you bring your own paint, I'll even let you do that for free!
I've never used a sprayer, but it's no panacea. From what I've seen, the cheaper ones tend to clog easily, and don't distribute the paint evenly. There is a lot of technique there as well.
Oil paint can be sanded, latex can only be stripped off.
David
David
What grit sand paper would I want to use after each coat? Something high like 320?
Try different grits (220 - 400). I think it depends on how well you paint.
David
David
320 is good. If you have a light touch, 220 will also work. It depends on the surface as well, for curved/ profiled surfaces I use 320. When you get to the final coat, you can also use 00 steel wool. That gets it really smooth.
Of course, if you tip over the garbage can while the piece is still drying, you may need 150 to get all the dust off....don't ask me how I know this.
Of course, if you tip over the garbage can while the piece is still drying, you may need 150 to get all the dust off....don't ask me how I know this.
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