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I don't understand emergency paddle switches unless they include a brake feature. By the time you hit switch, and saw winds down, hand, finger, limb (choose one) is severed. 40 tooth blade turning 3000 RPM, means each minute, 120,000 teeth are passing any given point. Three quarter second reaction time means only 1500 teeth have passed, but for most of us 3/4 second is faster than we USED to be.
It's nice to have a big OFF switch when you have both hands occupied trying to prevent the saw from kicking back a piece of twisted sheet stock and you need to turn off the saw with your knee.
Not that that has ever happened to me.
I use an inexpensive switch with a red "Stop" paddle from Grizzly , but it seems a shame to discard the magnetic switch that came with the Unisaw.
-Mark
Not that that has ever happened to me.
I use an inexpensive switch with a red "Stop" paddle from Grizzly , but it seems a shame to discard the magnetic switch that came with the Unisaw.
-Mark
Here is one that NCWW member Doug Wilberg (and I think that Charlie Stickney may have had a hand in it) built for Doug's table saw. Basically it was an add-on that interfaced with the original switch.
Doug actually has two tablesaws side by side - the one on the right is dedicated for dado's. The paddle switch will shut off both saws.
Doug actually has two tablesaws side by side - the one on the right is dedicated for dado's. The paddle switch will shut off both saws.
I bought a paddle switch from Sears that was made for routers. Don't do it. :eusa_doh: It has an internal circuit breaker and it trips out if I get in the least amount of load. Go to WW Grainger or someplace similar and get a REAL emergency stop button. You can mount it behind a paddle like the pic above or a modified version.
I don't have a picture but I just cut out a small piece of plywood and attached it to a hinge and then to the switch mounting plate to cover the original switch. then I cut out an area so I could get to the on button. My stop button had a flange all the way around it so I just stuck a small block of wood on the back of the piece of plywood to push the button. works perfectly as a knee kicker and cost basically nothing.
I used nylon pipe straps to hold the top pvc pipe run to the underside of the outfeed table. I added a small piece of plywood scrap to the underside of the left side cast iron extension wing and screwed a nylon pipe strap to the plywood. Three pipe straps provided plenty of support and also enough tension/friction on the top pvc piece to hold the assembly off of the switch to avoid any accidental presses on the off switch due to gravity.
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