opinions?

[dpsnyder]

I have to build a platform for a friends front loading washer and dryer. 2 platforms about 30x30 and 12" tall. He wants a drawer that rolls on the floor cut into the front as tall as I can make it.

I was thinking of using a 2x12 as a frame with a piece of 3/4" ply on top. then cover the 2x12 with 1/4 ply for painting white to match appliances.

Questions:
1) was wondering if the outside frame would be adequate or if it needed a stud across the middle to help support it? He wants a drawer cut into the front that is as tall as I can make it.

2) do I need the 2x12, or would constructing the whole thing from 3/4 plywood be adequate?

3) depth of drawer? with a 12" height and needing some support across the front, I was thinking it should not be more that 8" deep?

O'pinions would be helpful.

Thanks
Dan

 

[Mike Davis]

Probably need to bolt it to the washer, they can have some pretty strong vibration at times. But, the 2 x 12 on three sides and 2 x 2 to hold it square across the front should be enough support. All the weight in on the four corners. 3/4 plywood on top might be strong enough without any cross piece on front for 11 inch high drawer. Key is method of attachment at corners.

 

[Mt. Gomer]

You might also consider using treated/marine materials. Might be overkill but probably worth it considering washers have a high leak/moisture potential.

Travis

 

[froglips]

Sounds like a good plan!

I'd be tempted to look at doing it from 2x4's and 1/4" ply sheathing. Build it just like a framed wall. A bit of overkill, but this is a rather stressed stand. The "top plate" and "sil" would take up about 3" but solve any racking concerns.

One thing I used on my front loader, which never has been well balanced, was to put one of those rubber anti-fatigue mats with the holes in it between a 3/4" sheet of ply and the floor. I have the factory supplied sheet metal stand.

That did night and day wonders for vibration sent throughout the hose and the machine itself.

The real question is are you also going to make them a play washing machine from wood

Jim

 

[bobby g]

Dan,

I wouldn't use 2X12 because it seldom stays flat. I made ours using 2 layers of 3/4 plywood, glued and screwed, throughout. I didn't incorporate drawers but I would think that since the load is transferred to the perimeter via the leveling feet, a cross piece of 3" (1 1/2" thick oak) would do the job. I didn't bolt ours and the units have stayed in place just fine.

Regards,

Bob

 

[Joe Scharle]

Agree with Bob using doubled plywood frame. I'd also glue on a plywood top and I think if you attach short faces with corner blocks on the front, a floating drawer would work just fine. Just glue-in a pair of guide strips under the top to keep the drawer aligned.
Construction adhesive and a finish nailer will make short work of this.:eusa_danc

 

[Splint Eastwood]

What about using plastic laminate ?

There's a non profit store in Durham that sells donated laminate cutoffs for $1 per sq ft.

Contact cement to top of double plywood (solves any moisture issues)

and who knows.... you might be able to find a colored laminate that comes close to matching color of washer and dryer!

The Scrap Exchange, a non-profit creative reuse center in Durham, has large sheets of laminate available. These sheets could be used on small countertop, table, or other household or creative projects. The sheets vary in size and color. These sheets are priced at approximately $1 per square foot.

548 Foster Street in Durham. phone is 919-688-6960.



M

 

[toolferone]

All the load is at the 4 feet on the corners. I really think a single layer plywood box is strong enough. The top should sit on top of the sides and back peice and I think just a couple of cross pieces across the bottom to stop it from spreading apart. I would lift the bottom pieces up a little so the box is sitting on the plywood side & back edges. At that point a drawer would be easy. The compression strength of the plywood edge is plenty strong enough. I would seal all edges in case of leaks. I built 2 solid ply boxes laminated on all sides that were 2' square and 4' tall. They suppported static load of 700 lbs each with no problem.

 

[Charles Lent]

I agree with toolferone. :gar-Bi

A properly built 3/4 ply box with the top extending over the sides, glued nailed/screwed together will be plenty strong enough for this. I would use Titebond II glue or an equivalent. The box should have a full back and sides, and at least a 2" high front support strip above the drawer face to reduce sagging. This will be the weakest part of the cabinet, so doubling it's thickness would help. Guide strips inside at the top of the case, to keep the drawer centered and the drawer wheels from catching, would be a good idea. The drawer can also be built from 3/4 plywood. Use cabinet quality birch plywood and seal the exposed plywood edges of the box and drawer. Laminate on the surfaces would make a professional job of it, improve it's water resistance, and make it easy to keep clean.

Charley

 

[Skymaster]

3/4 will be fine, as far as edges you can get iron on laminate edgebanding tape. If you want to make life EZ and put lam on the top, you CAN use T bond II for the laminate :}:} YES you can. No smell, no fighting contact, you just have to let it dry much longer.
Tape edges first, than use a pc of scrap lam as a spreader and put a good coat glue on the ply,place the lam on, move it till right, clamp some cauls on it and put it aside to dry while you make the rest.