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blazeman45

Steve
Senior User
So I upgraded my DC to a 5hp Oneida and all I can say is wow! However, I decided to leave my existing snap lock ductwork in place... I was super cautious about leaving at least one gate open for the first week... picture says the rest! Don’t close all the gates! Lol! 3 hours of work today and it is fixed!
 

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Gotcha6

Dennis
Corporate Member
I don't have as sophisticated or large a system as yours, but I was able to incorporate a vacuum relief valve into mine, involving a tee turned upwards and then back down 180 degrees to a reduced fitting with a makeshift weighted popoff valve configured into it. Pointing the tee downwards would have created a pocket for dust to settle into. When the suction gets too great, it lifts the popoff and allows air flow and reseats itself when the condition ends. My system is DWV PVC pipe but I see no reason one couldn't be designed for metal duct as well.
 

tvrgeek

tvrgeek
User
I don't have as sophisticated or large a system as yours, but I was able to incorporate a vacuum relief valve into mine, involving a tee turned upwards and then back down 180 degrees to a reduced fitting with a makeshift weighted popoff valve configured into it. Pointing the tee downwards would have created a pocket for dust to settle into. When the suction gets too great, it lifts the popoff and allows air flow and reseats itself when the condition ends. My system is DWV PVC pipe but I see no reason one couldn't be designed for metal duct as well.
I have been considering this. I have a 5 HP ClearView on order. Do you have any specifics, sketch, weights' vacuum level, etc? I figure a 4 inch should so it.
I thought about even adding just a hole covered with some PVC flashing as a burst plate.
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Wow Steve - that's definitely some impressive suction! I've decided to keep the Laguna DC I picked up from you "mobile" to save some dedicated footprint on the woodworking side of the shop, (a tradeoff for a future "bandsaw station", and it will in turn keep my runs super short, (sub 10'). I'm also "hot-rodding" it a bit w/ a revised filter/ plenum setup I'll share once I'm done. While a 2HP cyclone will obviously pull exponentially less CFM than your new beast, given the short runs, (i.e. small amount of material needs),this has convinced me to just go w/ the heavier 24ga pipe from Oneida or the like vs. the ~30ga stuff from the boxes. I've got a plan to hide most of my ductwork in a new outfeed table setup, so replacing a damaged section would be a real problem down the road for what I've got planned.

Glad to hear your putting the new DC through it's paces at any rate!

HMH
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
I feel your pain, Steve. I've done that twice w/ my system. I have the same 5 hp Oneida. Very powerful. Now I go around checking to make sure I have at least two gates open. What a PITA to change out one section of duct.
 

tvrgeek

tvrgeek
User
I notice a few folks are selling blast gates with a thin plate, basically an easy to replace burst plate. Don't like that idea. I think a spring operated valve would be better.

Not only do I have spiral pipes, but in one place I have a flex before the gate.

Note, it is not the HP, or raw CFM that will collapse piles, but the vacuum it can create. That varies with design. One reason I went CV over Oneida was it's ability to pull a couple more inches.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Corporate Member
This is what I originally did. You can see that any accumulation of dust in the fitting would cause a failure of the valve to open. I just rotated the pipe 180 degrees and installed 2 90 degree fittings to the system.

1613694213604.png 1613694364179.png 1613694213604.png 1613694433492.png
 

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junquecol

Bruce
User

Gotcha6

Dennis
Corporate Member
The only reason I didn’t use a ball was on wasn’t sure that I could get something of a proper weight. With what I have I can keep adding weights to the stem on the bottom until it reaches a satisfactory performance level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

tvrgeek

tvrgeek
User
What is the red disk? Looks easy to do with a spring. What is the opening size? I figure a 4 inch should be enough but that is a WAG. A 2 1/2 might even be enough.

Not a candidate to patent it as this is SOP in industrial systems. Not a new technology or a unique application.
 

junquecol

Bruce
User
The only reason I didn’t use a ball was on wasn’t sure that I could get something of a proper weight. With what I have I can keep adding weights to the stem on the bottom until it reaches a satisfactory performance level.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Drill or punch a hole thru the ball, and add some threaded rod. From picture, yours looks like an old style vertical flapper from a water closet.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Corporate Member
It's actually a piece of UHMW PE I picked up at a machine shop yard sale and turned it to a little less than the ID of the lower neck of the reducer, leaving a somewhat rounded seat so as to allow for any inadverdent shavings not allowing a good seal. I'd suppose MDF or anything else of sufficient size would fill the bill.
As for the patent idea, I wouldn't waste my time and $$ trying to patent most anyone could make on their own. Who would I market it to? Just about everyone on this site and others like it could do the same thing for less $ than would be spent marketing it.
 

tvrgeek

tvrgeek
User
I was in HD today. In plumbing, they have a 2 inch valve. Looks like it might be a matter of tuning the spring, if it is big enough for a full size collector. Should be fine for a shop vac.
 

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