Hi - that Makita, like my Hitachi resaw, uses a universal motor. It is geared, because universal motors spin about a bazillion RPM and that's too fast for sawing.
If the motor is dead, throw it away. You can replace with a normal induction motor (1725 rpm preferred), although you will need to fab an adapter plate.
In addition to the advice others have given you, I would remove the band and the drive belt and spin both the upper and lower wheels by hand listening for bad bearings.
Then I would re-install the drive belt (leave the band off) and having made sure the motor was free of debris, apply power and make sure the motor and drive wheel appear to be running properly.
If you want to check the upper wheel at this time, re-install the band, back off all the guides. Tension the band. Track the band by hand. Close all the doors and *briefly* apply power for 1-2 seconds while watching to see if the band tries to jump off the wheels. Adjust tracking and re-track by hand, then briefly with power as needed.
Once you have the saw running, I would junk the existing band as it looks like a plain steel band and a rusty one at that. Greg (Woodman2K) mentioned that the saw was not designed for smaller bands and that might be true, but you should have no problems fitting a more conventional aftermarket resaw band of the ~1" wide variety. You will need to bury the teeth of the smaller blade into the guide blocks shown in your picture #2, but this is no big deal.
By the way, regarding "all the knobs" shown in your picture number 3: the tracking and tension adjusting knobs are in vertical opposition. The other large (horizontal) knob is the raiser/lower adjuster for the upper guides - the guides are on a rack and pinion system.
Lastly, remember that it's a made in Japan saw - everything will be metric.
-Mark, who uses 3/4" bimetal and 1" Resaw King bands in his Hitachi
If the motor is dead, throw it away. You can replace with a normal induction motor (1725 rpm preferred), although you will need to fab an adapter plate.
In addition to the advice others have given you, I would remove the band and the drive belt and spin both the upper and lower wheels by hand listening for bad bearings.
Then I would re-install the drive belt (leave the band off) and having made sure the motor was free of debris, apply power and make sure the motor and drive wheel appear to be running properly.
If you want to check the upper wheel at this time, re-install the band, back off all the guides. Tension the band. Track the band by hand. Close all the doors and *briefly* apply power for 1-2 seconds while watching to see if the band tries to jump off the wheels. Adjust tracking and re-track by hand, then briefly with power as needed.
Once you have the saw running, I would junk the existing band as it looks like a plain steel band and a rusty one at that. Greg (Woodman2K) mentioned that the saw was not designed for smaller bands and that might be true, but you should have no problems fitting a more conventional aftermarket resaw band of the ~1" wide variety. You will need to bury the teeth of the smaller blade into the guide blocks shown in your picture #2, but this is no big deal.
By the way, regarding "all the knobs" shown in your picture number 3: the tracking and tension adjusting knobs are in vertical opposition. The other large (horizontal) knob is the raiser/lower adjuster for the upper guides - the guides are on a rack and pinion system.
Lastly, remember that it's a made in Japan saw - everything will be metric.
-Mark, who uses 3/4" bimetal and 1" Resaw King bands in his Hitachi
