Non yellowing finish for salad bowl

Status
Not open for further replies.

DavidF

New User
David
Any recommendations for a non yellowing finish for a salad bowl? I have a bowl that has some very white Holly in it and I would like to preserve that colour if possible. I have used Seal-A cell on bowls before, but can't remember whether it is particularly non yellowing. Does Behlans(sp) salad bowl finish yellow lighter woods? I know most finishes will yellow eventually, but I would like to minimize it as much as possible.

TIA
 
T

toolferone

Water based is the way to go. Remember all finishes are food safe after curing (about 30 days). I used a General Finish poly acrylic on a set of goblets I made and drank out of.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Thanks Tom, I was heading in the direction of WB. I've got some Target coatings Laquer that can be wiped or brushed so may go that route. Might be a bit old now though....
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
Be careful with waterborne finishes in a salad bowl. Waterborne finishes are not nearly as chemical resistant as oil based finishes. Salad dressing would be likely to rather quickly cause the surface to deteriorate.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
To use your native nomenclature, why not a trip to the "chemist" for some USP grade mineral oil ? I would think it would be non-yellowing. :wsmile:
 

DavidF

New User
David
Be careful with waterborne finishes in a salad bowl. Waterborne finishes are not nearly as chemical resistant as oil based finishes. Salad dressing would be likely to rather quickly cause the surface to deteriorate.

Funny you should say that Howard, but I was just penning a note to Jeff at Target to ask the same question.

Based on your comments I might stick to the Seal-A-Cell, it doesn't seem to add too much amber tone to lighter woods.

Glenn, from what I have seen in the past, straight oil does seem to chnage colour over time, I assume as the oil oxidises??.

I am going to do a test piece tonight to see how the seal-a-cell works.

Any other suggestions anybody - Howard???
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
David I would stick with a mineral oil/beeswax mixture. Using any type of film finish is going to be prone to damage of the film and then moisture, oils and other salad dressing ingredients will get underneath that film causing it to flake. Although non-toxic when fully cured I wouldn't want my guests or clients getting a flake of varnish in their salad. Actually leaving it natural and unfinished is a good way to go to. The oils in salad dressings will give it a good patina over time.
Any organic oil will yellow over time to some degree. A petroleum based oil like mineral oil won't and you can be very assured of it's food grade safety.

MTCW,
Dave:)
 

DavidF

New User
David
Thanks Dave, decisions, decisions!

I found this at woodworkers supply:

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=107-279&LARGEVIEW=ON

The Claphams one looks like a ready made blend. I don't really want to be messing with double boilers etc. As for no finish, not this time I don't think. It will be used I am sure, but it is a wedding present for a Nephew in England so needs to look the part as well. I hope to be turning it next weekend.
 

Howard Acheson

New User
Howard
>> from what I have seen in the past, straight oil does seem to chnage colour over time, I assume as the oil oxidises??.

Mineral oil never oxides or dries so it never changes color.

Personally I would not use a standard oil/varnish mixture product like Seal A Cel on a salad bowl. It will always have some odor. Rather, if you want to use a product like that, use one of the "Salad Bowl Finishes" which are made with deodorized mineral spirits and impart not odor to the bowl contents. Behlen makes one as does General Finishes. And, there are others.

My preference is the following for cutting boards and other wood products used for foods.

An excellent treatment for wooden food preparation surfaces like cutting boards and butcher blocks is a mixture of mineral oil and either paraffin or beeswax. This is what is used on many commercial wood surfaces. It will last longer and be more protective than just mineral oil. Mineral oil can be found in most supermarkets in the pharmacy section or in a true pharmacy. Paraffin is found in the canning section of the store or in a hardware store.

Heat the oil in a double boiler and shave in some wax. The exact proportions are not critical--a 5-6 parts of oil to one part of wax will work fine. Stir the mixture until all the wax is liquefied. Apply the mixture heavily and let it set 10-12 hours or overnight. Next day do it again and continue until the wood will no longer absorb the finish. Let it set for 10-12 hours and then lightly scrape off any excess. Then buff it with a rag.

Reapply whenever the wood begins to look dry.

Never put a wood board in the dishwasher and don't soak it in dishwater for long periods.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Thanks Howard, I have that recipe, but not sure if I want to be bothered to make it myself for such a small qty, we shall see.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top