New Jewelry Box

DKA

Kelly
User
Beautiful work. I am curious about the brass keyhole. Did you make that or do you have a source?
 

dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
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Bill E

Bill
User
I just finished another commission jewelry box. The box is Curly Maple, and I used Jatoba (Brazilian Cherry) for the inside, sides, trays, and trim. The top is inlaid with Imbuya (Brazilian Redwood Burl) veneer and trimmed with Curly Maple and Brazilian Cherry. It is lined top and bottom with pig skin suede, as well as the tray and ring box linings. The hardware is Brusso stop hinges, and the lock is the Neat Elite lock from Fineboxhardware.com.

I sanded progressively from 150 to 800 grits, applied two rubbed coats of Odies Dark Oil, and then finished with a buffed coat of Renaissance Crystiline wax.

This is the 8th jewelry box I've made with this tray configuration. I try to offer the customer other layouts, but they all like the separate ring box.


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Dan , your craftsmanship and eye for details is superb! I also made boxes
If you need new veneer sources or wood let me know Thanks Bill
 

dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
Dan , your craftsmanship and eye for details is superb! I also made boxes
If you need new veneer sources or wood let me know Thanks Bill
Bill,

Thanks for your kind words. I usually get my veneers From Tom Volpe (via Etsy) or a guy in Turkey (via Etsy). I'm always looking for good sources for figured woods. I would be interested to see your sources. Thanks, Dan C.
 

Rob in NC

Rob
Senior User
I keep going back to look at this. I never thought a jewelry box would be my thing, but this is simply stunning. It's difficult for me to look at something like this realizing full well that I cannot yet recreate it, but it definitely does give something to strive for. Truly stunning work, sir.
 

Bill E

Bill
User
My best sources for veneers are: Joes Veneers (Special deal on bargain box about $100 ). )Sauers Veneer Co ,Lexington nc; Herzog Veneers ,Highpoint nc
I am planing on going to the workshop in Cary 2 o’clock on Sunday .Hope you will be there. Bill E
 

Wilsoncb

Williemakeit
User
Really nice work but I have a question. You said it was sanded to 800. Everything I’ve found doesn’t recommend sanding past 220 because past that it will close the grain and made it difficult for the finish to penetrate. How are you dealing with this?
I’m asking because I recently sanded a piece of white oak to 400 just to see what it looked like…and I like it. So I’ve been trying to find out how people are doing this. The only information I’ve found on a polished finish is it’s done after varnish is applied versus polishing the raw wood then applying a finish (which it seems you did).
 

Rob in NC

Rob
Senior User
Really nice work but I have a question. You said it was sanded to 800. Everything I’ve found doesn’t recommend sanding past 220 because past that it will close the grain and made it difficult for the finish to penetrate. How are you dealing with this?
I’m asking because I recently sanded a piece of white oak to 400 just to see what it looked like…and I like it. So I’ve been trying to find out how people are doing this. The only information I’ve found on a polished finish is it’s done after varnish is applied versus polishing the raw wood then applying a finish (which it seems you did).
Cant speak to this type of woodworking, but with rifle stocks, once I get into the higher grit, I start wet sanding. Be interesting to see how this might contrast with this type of work.
 

dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
Really nice work but I have a question. You said it was sanded to 800. Everything I’ve found doesn’t recommend sanding past 220 because past that it will close the grain and made it difficult for the finish to penetrate. How are you dealing with this?
I’m asking because I recently sanded a piece of white oak to 400 just to see what it looked like…and I like it. So I’ve been trying to find out how people are doing this. The only information I’ve found on a polished finish is it’s done after varnish is applied versus polishing the raw wood then applying a finish (which it seems you did).
For varnish and lacquers that is true and it’s how I used to do finishes on larger pieces. I started using Odie’s (which is an a hard wax oil finish) and seeing some YouTube vids by folks using Odie’s and some of the other hardwaxes and they were all sanding to the higher grits. If fact, on some of the the tight grain woods, I go as high as 1200 grit. The Odie’s really brings out the grain.
 
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dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
My best sources for veneers are: Joes Veneers (Special deal on bargain box about $100 ). )Sauers Veneer Co ,Lexington nc; Herzog Veneers ,Highpoint nc
I am planing on going to the workshop in Cary 2 o’clock on Sunday .Hope you will be there. Bill E
Hey Bill, thanks for the additional veneer resources. I have used Sauers. I won’t be at the workshop, it’s about 4 hours from Asheville. Cheers Dan C.
 

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