New 10x20 Shed/Shop

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
One too many rainy days plus a "few" thin/bare spots on the tent roof and I decided it was time to invest in a more durable/permanent workshop. I found a repo'd 10x20 A-frame shed with a 6' door on one end. There is a small window on the other end, but I would like to add a second 6' door to replace that window. I am also considering putting in a standard 30-36" door in the center of the long front side along with 2 windows.

I have a band saw which I was given but never used, a compound miter saw, a router table, a portable air compressor and would like to get a table saw and maybe a dust collection system in the future. So with all that said, I need ideas on how to set it up. I do plan to run electrical to the building and am hoping I can run the lights, air compressor and vacuum at the same time without tripping the breaker. Also thinking about at least 1 - 220 line for future whatevers.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
I would put it up in the air a little so you can run the DC and power below the floor. Pretty narrow, so you don't want to waste any space.
Sounds like you need to consult an electrician. You don't want "the" breaker. You need a sub-panel with multiple circuits.
 

DLC

Daniel
User
I would advise you to minimize the doors, since those eat up the wall and floor space that would otherwise be useful for storing tools and supplies.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
One too many rainy days plus a "few" thin/bare spots on the tent roof and I decided it was time to invest in a more durable/permanent workshop. I found a repo'd 10x20 A-frame shed with a 6' door on one end. There is a small window on the other end, but I would like to add a second 6' door to replace that window. I am also considering putting in a standard 30-36" door in the center of the long front side along with 2 windows.

I have a band saw which I was given but never used, a compound miter saw, a router table, a portable air compressor and would like to get a table saw and maybe a dust collection system in the future. So with all that said, I need ideas on how to set it up. I do plan to run electrical to the building and am hoping I can run the lights, air compressor and vacuum at the same time without tripping the breaker. Also thinking about at least 1 - 220 line for future whatevers.
I have a 12x20 shop out back, and I have the tools in there on carts so I can roll out what I'm using to the center of the space and work there, or sometimes I'll roll it outside and use it there. In that area I wouldn't worry about permanent space for DC duct work, just use a flex hose and attach to each machine as you're using it.

As for doors, don't put the 36" door in the center, put it as close to the 6" door as you can to minimize lost usable wall space, my entry door is right next to my roll up door so it maximizes my useable wall space. I find it much more convenience to go in and out the 36" door unless I'm moving big boards so I'd strongly say do that.
 

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
I would put it up in the air a little so you can run the DC and power below the floor. Pretty narrow, so you don't want to waste any space.
Sounds like you need to consult an electrician. You don't want "the" breaker. You need a sub-panel with multiple circuits.
Definitely getting an electrician and already thought about the sub-panel. Currently everything I run is on the same circuit as my water pump for the house and it trips regularly especially if I am running the air compressor. Oh and I plan to rent a ditch witch to bury the lines
 

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
I would advise you to minimize the doors, since those eat up the wall and floor space that would otherwise be useful for storing tools and supplies.
That is a good point. I may have to rethink what I want to do. Fortunately for me, the 6' doors are not roll up doors. I do have "shelves" on my current shed door that I use to store clamps, sandpaper, etc. I will most likely build storage onto the new doors as well.

As for adding another set of 6' doors on the other end, my thinking was that if I had doors on both ends, I could easily handle longer boards and set up whatever tool I was using in the middle of the shop.

I have a 12x20 shop out back, and I have the tools in there on carts so I can roll out what I'm using to the center of the space and work there, or sometimes I'll roll it outside and use it there.
I had thought about the rolling carts as well. If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to see some photos of what you did. (And anyone else with a shop about the same size would be great to see what you did too)

In that area I wouldn't worry about permanent space for DC duct work, just use a flex hose and attach to each machine as you're using it.
As for the DC, I don't have any now because I don't care if the sawdust ends up on the ground. In a shop with walls and a floor, I think I will need to be more concerned about it. I will definitely be searching the forum for DC ideas.

As for doors, don't put the 36" door in the center, put it as close to the 6" door as you can to minimize lost usable wall space, my entry door is right next to my roll up door so it maximizes my useable wall space. I find it much more convenience to go in and out the 36" door unless I'm moving big boards so I'd strongly say do that.
You also make a good point about the doors. This shed does not have roll up doors so I can just open 1/2 of the large doors to get in and out; so the 36" door was as much for aesthetics as anything.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
That is a good point. I may have to rethink what I want to do. Fortunately for me, the 6' doors are not roll up doors. I do have "shelves" on my current shed door that I use to store clamps, sandpaper, etc. I will most likely build storage onto the new doors as well.

As for adding another set of 6' doors on the other end, my thinking was that if I had doors on both ends, I could easily handle longer boards and set up whatever tool I was using in the middle of the shop.

I had thought about the rolling carts as well. If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to see some photos of what you did. (And anyone else with a shop about the same size would be great to see what you did too)

As for the DC, I don't have any now because I don't care if the sawdust ends up on the ground. In a shop with walls and a floor, I think I will need to be more concerned about it. I will definitely be searching the forum for DC ideas.

You also make a good point about the doors. This shed does not have roll up doors so I can just open 1/2 of the large doors to get in and out; so the 36" door was as much for aesthetics as anything.
I use these for my miter saw and planer: https://www.amazon.com/Portamate-PM-8000-Portacube-Station-Orange/dp/B01MY0O144
My router table just on a rolling cabinet base.
I'd skip the extra door, if the building is 20feet long, you won't need doors on both sides.
 

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
Well right now, I have to put the interior plans on hold unless my wife will let me leave it in the front yard.

The shed is 10'3" wide...my gate is 10'1" wide o_O

I will be working on extending 1/2 the gate tomorrow then I still have to cut down the dogwood. UGH!
 

Billm0066

Bill
User
I have a 12x20

one door maximizes wall space. I wouldn’t add another for longer objects. Put tools on a mobile base and put them near the door. You can do whatever you want with that.

Get a sub panel and run a few circuits to it. You can run dc on one and other tools on the other at the same time.

can you vent the dust outside? I have a harbor freight and exhaust it outside. Just rake it once in a while.
 

jlwest

Jeff
Corporate Member
Take your new power straight from the main house panel, i.e. not the well pump circuit which is not usually permitted.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Take your new power straight from the main house panel, i.e. not the well pump circuit which is not usually permitted.
I have a box outside (main power after the meter) that is then routed into the house panel. (I know I have to check SC regs / SCNEC requirements) but is it "acceptable" to tap on that power? For a 220 box or small number of position breaker-box.
 

tri4sale

Daniel
Corporate Member
I have a box outside (main power after the meter) that is then routed into the house panel. (I know I have to check SC regs / SCNEC requirements) but is it "acceptable" to tap on that power? For a 220 box or small number of position breaker-box.
I have the same setup, panel at the meter, and then panel inside the house. As long as the capacity is there, you can tap into it. I know when I looked into it for my detached shop I would have to drive a ground rod at the shop electrical panel.
 

jlwest

Jeff
Corporate Member
I have a box outside (main power after the meter) that is then routed into the house panel. (I know I have to check SC regs / SCNEC requirements) but is it "acceptable" to tap on that power? For a 220 box or small number of position breaker-box.
I have done it. There is usually a lot of power to the meter that feeds your main breaker box however have a electrician check it out. Older houses can have less power to them because of the distribution wire size. Tapping at the top of the main box should be fine. I took 100 amps to my workshop subpanel. I did use a electrician because I needed a permit for the new building.
 

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
Thanks everyone for your replies. The shed/shop is due to arrive next week. Then I will be calling the electrician.
 

ralitaco

Jim
Senior User
IT IS HERE!!!
2021-04-16 New Shop (1).jpg

At my wife's request, I have decided to add a door and 2 windows to the long side that faces the house. I plan to put a ramp at the double doors on the end and a step or 2 at the door in the middle. We are also going to paint the shed grey and the trim will be white.

On the inside, the only thing I know I am going to do is add some laminate flooring. The existing floor is plywood, but is covered with oil stains. (this was a repo and it appears the previous owner used it to work on motorcycles)

I am struggling with what to do for the shed's underpinning (the gap ranges from 8" to 13"). I want to close it in to keep critters out and make it more visually appealing. I am also trying to do it without breaking the bank.
I am leaning towards cutting strips of T-111 siding and just running it to the ground. I know it will eventually rot, but if I screw them in, they I can remove and replace. I am thinking about painting it on all sides maybe even using that flex seal.


Here is my old "shop"
2021-02-28 Work Tent.jpg
 

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