Need help with Bunk Bed for friend

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MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Need Help,


A friend of mine wants to build an L shaped bunk bed, and since I know a lot of you have made furniture, beds, etc.

I was wondering aproximately how many board feet I would need. I was guessing 200BF, I hope I am way high, but I am guessing I may be close?

The mattress they have for the two beds is: 74.5" length X 37.75 wide X 7" thick
The height of the top bunk is 54" and the bottom is 32?

We are not putting drawers in, just shelving and no bookshelf on the back side.

Here's a picture



Thanks for your help

And would you use Ash or Aspen for this?

Thanks a bunch~!
 

ehpoole

Moderator
Ethan
Re: Need help with Bunk Bed

I would hardly call myself an expert estimator....

But, looking at your photo and the simplicity of the joinery used, my guess is that the entire project was built from a half-dozen or so sheets of 3/4" MDF. In which case the answer would be virtually NO board feet of lumber (just lots of sawdust and resin). Though, I suspect a few dozen board feet of 1x4 or 1x6 may have been used to support the mattresses if no box springs were used (box springs only require support at their edges, matresses need support at regular intervals across their widths/length).

I think you'll need to decide for yourself whether, and to what extent, you wish to replace sheet goods with solid lumber before a reasonable quote on board feet can be estimated. If you go with solid wood, you'll likely be doing a good deal of laminating unless you can get hold of some very wide boards (in which case you still may wish to laminate to reduce cupping).

Others will surely follow with better answers.
 

dlrion

New User
Dan
Re: Need help with Bunk Bed

Funny you should mention this...

I have been thinking about doing a similar project for my daughter for some time now. I will be watching this thread closely.

Dan
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
Re: Need help with Bunk Bed

If it's going to be painted as in the picture, I'd consider using poplar instead. If you decide on sheet goods, I'd to go with plywood edged with real wood.

No idea about the wood amt needed tho. One thing I know at least for me is guessing an amount and thinking you are way high prob means you are way low, hehe.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Re: Need help with Bunk Bed

Well I used a BFT calculator with what I could think of that would be needed and I got 170BF with 14BF oops factored in.

I also modified the BFT calculator to give me total BFT for the entire project, not just each size of boards/sheets. Then I had it add the total price as well.

They want it to be wood and finished, maybe stained.

If it's Ash or Aspen then I think finish would look much better.

If it's poplar they choose, stain or finish is fine with me.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Re: Need help with Bunk Bed

Is Aspen even a good choice? I know Poplar has been used for this before and I have been told that it's a little soft, but how is Aspen compared to Poplar?

I know Ash would be a much better choice as it's almost as hard as Hard Maple
 

Guy in Paradise

New User
Guy Belleman
Review the design

Having four kids, two now in the late teens and two in the later single digits, having moved several times in the 12 years, enduring various size rooms, and trying out several bunkbed designs, I can recommend considering a different design.

Bunkbeds are definitely a space saver. We had several types and many didn't endure well. We had an L-shape design for a year and couldn't get rid of it fast enough. It just took up too much room, wall space, the drawers didn't fare well during racking, and the kids didn't like banging into the corners. Then we got two really nice sets of nice, solid wood bunkbeds, full size twins that stack using metal pins between the two. They were beds that they could grow into and have very strong bolting systems that keep them rigid.

Now the older two kids have their individual beds in their rooms, although the safety boards are now stored under their beds. The beds have provided us flexibility, saved room. Each kid has their own dresser which can store at the ends. All in all, this type has provided us a better long term option than the L-shape.

Good luck on the decision.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Re: Review the design

Thanks Guy,

I will let my friend know that about the bed. And also he doesn't want the drawers, just shelves where the drawers are.

I personally don't like it, it's too white and massive and looks quite heavy.

I really like this one and it looks like if we made it correctly could turn into two different beds for their kids when they get older.
Just the beds, no night stands, they already have a dresser. Plus to me it looks like it would be a whole lot less wood and better on his budget.


And was thinking of using these do you think they will help with racking/strength?
28589-01-500.jpg



Thanks for the replies and help~!
 

dlrion

New User
Dan
Hey Guy,


I am military... so it almost sounds like I will be doing a lot of what you talked about. My wife and I were considering something more like this...




Would this be more practical? I like it cause the stairs double as drawers.

Dan

p.s. sorry to hijack the thread Matt!
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Hey Dan,

No problem... I actually like the bed a lot as well, looks a little heavy, but as long as you make it possible to take apart it should be easy to get in and out of a room. That's why I like the one I just posted as you woul have the head and foot board, the you could have the rails come off and the supports under the bed could also come off, then your done. I think it would be much easier to assemble and dis-assemble compared to the one you posted.

Plus that one would sure take a lot more wood. I am thinking at least 200BF.

THe first one I posted is about 170BF and I think the second picture, the one I like is more around 120BF, but I have calculated that yet so don't quote me just yet.

Welp whatever you decide, I am sure it will look great.

Matthew
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Matt, a couple of observations:

First, SIL had a set like your first picture. Painted MDF. Did not last even though the two young-ins were 7 &9 yr old little girls. The beds were torn up within a couple months, because the MDF stretchers did not hold the fasteners when the 45 lb and 60 lb girls decided to bounce on them. I found out the girls were sleeping on the floor, so made some box frames out of 5/8 BCX pine ply that fixed things until new beds could be afforded (never buy rent-to-own). If going with that design, use multi-layered ply (cheapest being something like Arauco from Lowes at $35 a sheet but lousy to stain and finish due to blotching and the surface plys like to lift when sanding) to Birch or oak ply at $45 a sheet. IMHO MDF is cheap but will not last long enough to make it worthwhile.

Your second picture and Dan's picture seem to be better designs. Use minimum SYP pine for the uprights and bed rails. Ash would be plenty strong enough. I have never used Aspen so do not know, but poplar is too weak, especially for the bed rails. Besides, poplar is very difficult to match any other wood when staining, finishing.

Oak ply matches well with ash for the flat panels, and will be stable, so wood movement does not have to be a factor in the design. If pine (cheaper) for the uprights and stretchers, 5 or seven ply ACX (BCX might work as well but you'll have to pick through the stack) pine ply will work and has thick enough outer plys that they clean up well run through a planer to get a smooth surface.

In your neck of the woods, Douglas fir may be more available and cheaper. It is one of the firs that has the structural strength if dried properly (can be used for load-bearing construction). I have not used it, though, so do not know how it machines, stains or finishes.

Around here, if I made it and my name was on it, and on a restricted budget, I would use ash for the frames, oak ply for the panels, poplar for any drawer carcasses. Drawer fronts could either be ash or edge banded oak ply. If too expensive, I would also make it out of pine (SYP, not SPF), but that will mean more scrap to get good boards, as well as more of your time machining the lumber, so will cut into the price reduction.

If that doesn't meet their price range, I would tell them you are not going to make something too cheap as it will fail, and they might need to look elsewhere. If you make it cheap and it fails, you will be the one that is blamed, not their unwillingness to cough up for decent material. (DAMHIKT)

Go

PS. My aversion to SPF is due to the quality of the stuff we get here. Beings you are closer to Douglas fir country, the SPF you get there may be of better quality. You may want to grab a couple of 2 x 4's from the borg, mill them to 3/4, and see how they work as for fastener holding,etc. If a #10 screw can be ripped out fairly easily with a claw hammer, it probably is too soft for the main framework.
 

Guy in Paradise

New User
Guy Belleman
Some more information

The kind of bunks that have given us good service, lasted three moves, and are still in good shape, are solid wood and look like the picture at this website: http://www.bunk-beds-and-loft-beds.com/IVG2/N/ProductID-122422.htm Ours are lighter in color, more maple looking.

I noticed that many of the bunkbeds with a shelf or drawer underneath provided a little less room between the beds and rose the frame up some. The makers then get around those issues by designing them for the thin mattresses, which usually means less comfortable. We decided to provide our children, throughout their time in our house, an opportunity to sleep on good mattresses and hopefully get better sleep. I still remember the crummy foam pad I slept on as a kid and my backs still hurts just thinking about it. That said, to the room for good mattresses, the bottom bunk needs to be lower to the floor, so a drawer is not feasible. Also, not all ceiling heights are the same, and although they might be, the bedroom ceiling fan might dictate where the bed can go, along with the closets and windows.

Lots of folks like the bed brackets you posted, but I really like these ones, after using them for a dozen years. The ones I found have a hex L-wrench head, instead the regular hex head. These are very strong and provide a rigid structure, one that takes the kid abuse and bouncing. After normal wear, there is still no annoying bed squeaking noises, etc. http://www.leevalley.com/US/hardware/page.aspx?p=40445&cat=3,40842,41269

Good luck,
Guy
 
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