Need help tuning a bandsaw

Ralrick

Rick
Corporate Member
Looking for someone in the Raleigh area that can help with making a bandsaw run effectively.
You didn't mention what bandsaw you are using but I'll share my experience with my bandsaw. I went through a difficult process tuning my Jet 14" bandsaw (and most of the cast iron 14" bandsaws have the same design) after following all the steps from Snodgrass and other online videos. As it turns out, there is a cast component in the tension mechanism of these bandsaw that will bend over time. Once bent, getting good performance becomes almost impossible as you can no longer apply proper tension to the blade. Best tool upgrade I have made was to contact Iturra Designs and order his upgraded hinge mechanism and improved spring. It made a world of difference and the performance after the upgrade was incredible. I could cut 1/8" veneers through 6-8" oak with very good results and that would have been impossible before the upgrade. Take the time to speak to Lou Iturra - he is a wealth of information and will steer you in the right direction based on your saw. I also bought the carter quick release arm from him and that made the band much quicker for tensioning. Hope that helps.

Side note, I just sold the Jet bandsaw this week as I found a great deal on a Laguna . . . When the gentleman picked up the saw he told me it would be in Mexico within the next week. Apparently machinery is in high demand in mexico and would be worth 4-5x what they are paying in the US. This guy had a truck running down to mexico every 3-4 weeks.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
I heard about a trick to use a dollar bill wrapped around the bandsaw blade to set the bearings (thrust and side)

Does anyone do this, or do you have a better tip or trick?
Did not work at all for me as it wil mask your view and press on the blade. I found much better to get good light on it and look for even gaps. Works on both the ceramic guides I had in my benchtop and for the rollers in my C-14. I do the tap-tap as I can feel when the blade touches better than I can see of measure.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
User
You didn't mention what bandsaw you are using but I'll share my experience with my bandsaw. I went through a difficult process tuning my Jet 14" bandsaw (and most of the cast iron 14" bandsaws have the same design) after following all the steps from Snodgrass and other online videos. As it turns out, there is a cast component in the tension mechanism of these bandsaw that will bend over time. Once bent, getting good performance becomes almost impossible as you can no longer apply proper tension to the blade. Best tool upgrade I have made was to contact Iturra Designs and order his upgraded hinge mechanism and improved spring. It made a world of difference and the performance after the upgrade was incredible. I could cut 1/8" veneers through 6-8" oak with very good results and that would have been impossible before the upgrade. Take the time to speak to Lou Iturra - he is a wealth of information and will steer you in the right direction based on your saw. I also bought the carter quick release arm from him and that made the band much quicker for tensioning. Hope that helps.

Side note, I just sold the Jet bandsaw this week as I found a great deal on a Laguna . . . When the gentleman picked up the saw he told me it would be in Mexico within the next week. Apparently machinery is in high demand in mexico and would be worth 4-5x what they are paying in the US. This guy had a truck running down to mexico every 3-4 weeks.
Must be why I have not see as many older tools for sale.
 

smallboat

smallboat
Corporate Member
Hank- I think I got the dollar bill gauge from John White’s Care and Repair of shop Machines. He doesn’t mention wrapping it, but why not if you’re doing both sides. Back bearing is still a different clearance. Good book by the way, worth having around for when you need a ready reference
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
Hank- I think I got the dollar bill gauge from John White’s Care and Repair of shop Machines. He doesn’t mention wrapping it, but why not if you’re doing both sides. Back bearing is still a different clearance. Good book by the way, worth having around for when you need a ready reference
OH? I was thinking it was Mark Duginski - I need to blow the dust off that one and look into the Itura Designs - some of you may remember (hunted but I couldn't find the post) that my quick-release "stuck" I found that the zinc / zinic / pot-mental "slider" had swelled, I gently caressed it, then filed and cussed it, using bluing to see where to file it.

Now I am wondering if I would have called Lou, maybe all those problems would have been solved more easily? (Where is the "shrug" emogi?)
 

Joe Scharle

Joe
Corporate Member
I heard about a trick to use a dollar bill wrapped around the bandsaw blade to set the bearings (thrust and side)

Does anyone do this, or do you have a better tip or trick?


That's a century old trick for steel guides, but a dollar is not worth what it was then ;)
Roller guides and people like me who use lignum vitae for guides can have the guides against the blade.
 

Hmerkle

Hank
Corporate Member
I heard about a trick to use a dollar bill wrapped around the bandsaw blade to set the bearings (thrust and side)

Does anyone do this, or do you have a better tip or trick?


That's a century old trick for steel guides, but a dollar is not worth what it was then ;)
Roller guides and people like me who use lignum vitae for guides can have the guides against the blade.
yes, I have a 14" China/Delta and bought "cool blocks" for it and put them right on the blade, the thrust bearing is still a bearing... The biggest problem was when I open my wallet I only find lint and moths... ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

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