Need help clamping odd shape

[rhett]

I need help. I got suckered into some reproduction work, I'm in the home stretch and now I am stuck. I rebuilt the legs like they were and now I don't know how to clamp this up. I have a few band clamps, but they slip up the legs when tightened.

 

[dancam]

I'd use some wooden hand screws attached perpendicular to each leg (one above and one on the bottom) and then do your band clamps around the hand screws. Hard to explain where a picture or drawing would make it much clearer.

 

[MikeH]

I've seen where blocks were hot glued to a piece long enough to clamp in place and allow to dry. The hot glue shouldn't be too hard to get off. Might be worth a shot.

 

[jerrye]

Banding film. Have used it for all kinds of repair jobs on odd shapes. Works great! It's stretch film that is 3"-5" wide. I have samples I can bring out to you. PM me with your address and I'll run it out to you tomorrow.

 

[cpowell]

Could you take the mating piece left over after you sawed the legs, clamp it down to the top of the leg, then clamp the mating piece to the center post? You may need to use a few pieces of straight scrap and a small clamp to align the sides of the mating piece parallel with the leg.

You'd have to cut the outside end of the mating piece to make it parallel with the center post for a clamping surface and leave a small gap where the leg mating piece meets the center post.

I wish I could sketch up what I'm trying to describe but lack the tools. Hope it makes sense.

Same concept as what Dan suggested I think (I don't know what a wooden hand screw is).

Chuck

 

[rhett]

I'd use some wooden hand screws attached perpendicular to each leg (one above and one on the bottom) and then do your band clamps around the hand screws. Hard to explain where a picture or drawing would make it much clearer.

Good idea. That would work, but I have no wooden clamps:crybaby2:

 

[rhett]

I have presently screwed some blocks to my beanch at all three leg ends to secure base. I have made a bridge with some 1" sq steel stock and will apply downward pressure to obtain equal distance between the three legs. I am then using cpowells idea and taking my cutoffs to make a flat surface to clamp to. Ill keep you posted. Thanks for the input.

 

[McRabbet]

Your clamping problem is easily solved with a Band Clamp -- If you still have the cutoff pieces that correspond to the outside of the "knee" opposite the joint in the center column, I'd first hot glue those in place and use one of these, or something even better without the "S" hooks is available from Harbor Freight for under $5. Every shop should have several of there for clamping odd shapes (great for chair repairs).

Rob

 

[PeteM]

What about using epoxy?
That way you don't have to worry about clamping pressure.

From Woodweb:
Clamping pressure with epoxy adhesives
Precision joinery is one of the marks of a competent woodworker. But an obsession to achieve nearly invisible glue joints can be a liability when working with epoxies. The common adhesives that woodworkers are accustomed to working with (urea formaldehyde and resorcinol, for example) generally require tight joints, adequate clamping pressure, and warm temperatures to perform properly. These same bonding techniques are naturally used when a woodworker first starts to experiment with epoxy resin adhesives (old habits and obsessions die hard). The results are unexpected and disappointing when the resultant bond fails under light loading, and the epoxy is blamed for the problem. Most often, it's the woodworker's techniques that need to be examined.

1) Epoxy adhesives are far more forgiving when used in less than perfect working conditions.

2) They do not require tight fitting joints to successfully bond two pieces of wood. In fact, the joint strength will usually be higher if the joints are machined to a loose fit!

Epoxies are also used in boat building to coat and protect wood from moisture. When a coat of epoxy is applied, it actually seeps into the wood pores, providing a strong bond. This ability to "saturate" the wood fibers applies, of course, when two pieces of wood are bonded. If you plan to stain prior to applying finish, be sure to apply the stain in the bonding area before gluing. Otherwise, the epoxy "squeeze out" will coat and saturate the surrounding wood, effectively preventing stain penetration.

A No-Pressure Situation
Why does a woodworker often experience failures when using epoxy adhesives? They use clamping pressure (as opposed to simply closing the joint) and squeeze out most of the epoxy, leaving only a thin film that is absorbed by the wood. A starved joint results.

When bonding with epoxies, clamp to close, and no more. If the glue-up will be subjected to stress when unclamped, then allow the epoxy to cure for several days before removing the clamps - epoxies continue to gain strength for a week or longer. The addition of a filler such as fine sanding dust to the epoxy will act to fill gaps. When using a filled epoxy, be sure to coat both sides of the joint with the mixed epoxy before adding the filler.

pete

 

[novice99]

Perhaps using clamps and a band clamp something like this would work.

 

[rhett]

Here is how my clamping situation ended up. Thanks to everyone for their advice. Hot glued pine blocks cut to fit outside shape. Used 2 bandclamps to pull joint together. Then applied downward pressure via 2 bar clamps making sure to keep all three feet equal distance apart.

 

[sapwood]

:icon_thum :icon_thum :icon_thum Looks good!

Roger

 

[McRabbet]

Excellent! Band Clamps are perfect for this type of application!

Rob

 

[cpowell]

Great solution. :icon_thum

I'm going to have to jump on the band clamp wagon myself. Those look very useful!

Chuck