Need a straight edge

[Frank Berry]

While working in the shop building the counters and new work bench, I come to realize that my two piece aluminum straight edge I use for cutting my sheet goods has developed a curve in one of the 4' pieces. I have had this thing for many years and did not pay but maybe $20 for it when I bought it.
I think it's time for a new one, and I am looking for something reliable that I can use for up to 8' straight cuts.
Any suggestions what I can use or make or even buy?
Once again, thanks for all the help, suggestions, advise and support everyone has shown me. It's what keeps me going.
Frank.

 

[zapdafish]

ripping a piece of mdf and use the factory edge will give you the full 8'

or adjustable dry wall t-squares that are 4' but not sure how you would align 2 of them for a 8' cut.

or the bank breaker
http://www.festoolproducts.com/accessories/guide-rails/festool-491501-fs-3000-118-guide-rail.html

got to thinking there are other tracksaws now, dewalt and grizzly have their versions. at the grizzly site came across this closeout. Might be a way to connect them

http://www.grizzly.com/products/50-Saw-Guide-Rail/D3704

 

[Raymond]

Frank, check out Lowes.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Swanson-Tool-Company-Straight-Edge/1006469

 

[Frank Berry]

Frank, check out Lowes.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Swanson-Tool-Company-Straight-Edge/1006469

Very similar to the one I have now but the clamps were integrated into the straight edge. I stopped using the supplied clamps and use my regular clamps and may have caused the straight edge to bow in the middle. Just guessing because I ty to be very careful. I will check this one out to see if it is any better in quality then mine.
Thanks

 

[JohnW]

Frank,
Google/search DIY straight edge guide. Plenty of guide articles and videos. These, IMHO, work better then the cheaper aluminum guides because if made correctly, you will have less chip out. For cutting down sheet goods, make two. One 4' and one 8'.

 

[Gofor]

If you have room to store it, you can make a good one out of 1/2" ply.

1st, Cut about a 2" wide strip the length of a full sheet, using the straightest factory edge.
2nd, Cut another strip about 2" wider than the full width of your circular saw.
3rd, Screw the narrow strip to the wide strip with the straight factory edge. Position it so that it is the width of the blade to the motor side edge of the shoe + 1/2", and try to keep it as atright as possible. A long level or known straight edge is best to use as a reference.
4th, Sit the saw with motor side of shoe against the straight edge, and make a cut down the board.

This will give you a cutting gauge that you can set directly on the desired cut line, and because the saw rides on the gauge, it will not mar the surface of the sheet being cut. In addition, the guide also works to minimize chipout because the saw is cutting upwards against the guide. If you make a shorter one for cross cuts, I advise making it about 5' long to make it easier to get the saw shoe fully registered against the guide before starting the cut.

I recommend 1/2" ply to get the maximum cut depth from the saw, and recommend the total jig be wider than the full saw so that any clamps you use will not interfere with the saw movement during the cut. I made mine out of 3/4", which is fine for the base. But if you use 3/4 also for the guide strip, you will have to raise the saw motor from the shoe so it doesn't drag on it or tilt the saw, which then leaves you a little shy on the depth needed to go through 3/4 ply. The first one I made was also too narrow, so the clamps would interfere at the ends of the cut. (Lessons learned).

This web page has a pic of what I am talking about about 1/2 way down the page. https://www.familyhandyman.com/tools/saws/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/view-all

One tip: Raise the saw guard before starting the cut. Otherwise it may pull the saw off when it first contacts the guide.

Go

 

[Brogan]

The problem with making your own is you need a straight edge to make one.

Factory edges on sheet ply are never truly straight/smooth.

Mine's good enough for rough work, but that's about it.

 

[DaveD]

Years ago I made one out of a piece of plywood and a aluminum angle. I inlayed the angle in the factory edge of a piece of plywood about 10-12" wide. It's served me well all these years. Works great with my routers and circular saw.

 

[KenOfCary]

I used to have one I used for the same purpose before I bought the track saw. Let me see if I can find it. If I can, its yours if we can figure out how to get it to you. Let me find it first. I think I know where it is and if I still have it then its one less thing to move at the end of the month. I'm doing some more packing in the shop this afternoon and will look for it then.

 

[Frank Berry]

That is greatly appreciated Ken. I know you have a lot on your plate with the move and all. If there is anything I can do to help, I will figure a way.

 

[sawman101]

I'll bet the straight edge you've been using is a SWANSON. I feel compelled to make this disclaimer; although the tool carries a really fine name, Swanson, I am still waiting to receive a royalty check from the company. I am thinking the owner could be my long lost rich uncle, who has no children, and has been diligently seeking for me, to leave all his wealth and shop to. My letters to him come back; RETURN TO SENDER. Therefore I will not answer to complaints about failure of any Swanson brand tool, except, of course, my own.:gar-La;

 

[Frank Berry]

My two piece straight edge has already been marked with two big letters "NG" and tossed into the scrap aluminum pile for my next visit to scrap yard.

 

[sawman101]

My two piece straight edge has already been marked with two big letters "NG" and tossed into the scrap aluminum pile for my next visit to scrap yard.

Another useless Swanson on the scrap heap. Maybe I'd better make a note knot to visit your shop Frank...:wwink:

 

[Frank Berry]

I don't think mine is a Swanson

 

[Jeff]

my two piece aluminum straight edge I use for cutting my sheet goods has developed a curve in one of the 4' pieces.

Yikes! How did you notice this curve in your vintage straightedge and how noticeable is it over a 4' span (1/32"?)? The Swanson that Raymond mentioned looks like a decent replacement.

http://www.swansontoolco.com/product/100-cutting-guide/

 

[KenOfCary]

I found mine I had two of them one is bent and it happens to be a Swanson (sorry Bruce). In their defense I think it got stepped on. But the other one looks to be OK. Not sure what brand the other one is but it has a better (wider) coupler.

​

The one at the top of the photo is the good one. I also have the 4 short and one long clamping edges that you're welcome to if you can use them. I haven't touched this stuff in at least 5 years. Now that I have the track saw and multiple pieces of track, I pretty much use it for this purpose. I think I got the clamping tracks from Rockler, but not certain.

I'll toss them into my SUV and will have them at the Raleigh lunch if you can make it to that on the 21st. If not we'll see if we can work out a Pony Express.

I'd rather have this stuff in the hands of somebody that will use it rather than collecting dust and having to move it to the new shop to collect dust there.

 

[Frank Berry]

Yikes! How did you notice this curve in your vintage straightedge and how noticeable is it over a 4' span (1/32"?)? The Swanson that Raymond mentioned looks like a decent replacement.

http://www.swansontoolco.com/product/100-cutting-guide/

The curve is in the middle of one four foot section and is off about 1/8". I noticed when I cut the 3/4" plywood for the top of the bench. I left an overhang so I could come back with the flush trim bit on router. When I placed the top and centered it on bench, one area of the length was almost flush already. My wife noticed it when I was ready to trim. she had thought I cut it crocked and I said there was no way it was possible. When I looked at it I started measuring everything and could not figure how it happened. I went to the straight edge and started checking with my 4' level and then found the curve in the aluminum piece. It was enough for the saw to follow inward and then straighten out again. The only thing I can think of is I bent it somehow. It could have gotten caught somewhere between cabinets or wood pile and got pinched.

 

[Frank Berry]

I will be at the lunch meet Ken. The following week I need to drive out to Denver Co to bring a truck load of stuff to the wife's son from my attic I have been storing for the last 16 years. Long story there. Almost as long as the drive is going to be!

 

[Brogan]

Can't you very gently bend it back and then sand out any remaining imperfection?

You would likely need to sand both pieces together to ensure they still fit together correctly.

 

[Frank Berry]

I think they are worth more as scrap at this point. I have used my regular clamps instead of finding the clamps that slide into the channels underneath and I have dented to tops with my clamps. It's time for an upgrade any way. I had made a 4' guide using a piece of oak and some fiber board but the board got wavy as time went on so I trashed that a year or so ago. If I do not find one to my liking, I can just go ahead and make another with 1/4" ply and a piece of hardwood for the fence. I would need to get enough to make two. One for the 50" and one for the 96".