Mitered joints

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Wyatt Co.

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Bill
The "stacked" has my attention too as Jeff has mentioned. I can't comprehend stacked 45° cuts. Let alone stacked and cut to an accurate length.
 

tdukes

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Eddie
So you cut a stack in one go, rather than 1 at a time? Did you do the same thing using the miter gauge too?


No, they were cut one at a time but had them all ready to cut in a stack on the left side of the table saw and after both miters were cut, I stacked them on the right side of the table saw. In other words I did a batch.
 

Wyatt Co.

New User
Bill
No, they were cut one at a time but had them all ready to cut.

Whew! That makes me feel better.

Look, this is just my personal opinion from experience. Blade deflection CAN be a problem but not as much as most try to make it out to be.

I do virtually EVERYTHING with a thin kerf combination 50t blade. I cut everything from purple heart to soft pine and at whatever angles it needs to be done at. I've only ever had problems with miter joints when it came to trying to use the sled(s). Same wood, same angles, and same blade.......miter gauge.......no problems.
 

tdukes

New User
Eddie
Whew! That makes me feel better.

Look, this is just my personal opinion from experience. Blade deflection CAN be a problem but not as much as most try to make it out to be.

I do virtually EVERYTHING with a thin kerf combination 50t blade. I cut everything from purple heart to soft pine and at whatever angles it needs to be done at. I've only ever had problems with miter joints when it came to trying to use the sled(s). Same wood, same angles, and same blade.......miter gauge.......no problems.

It could very well be the sled. I have to raise the blade higher to make the cut. Its easier to use the sled to line up. I have marks on the sled for the second cut to bring it to final length. With a miter gauge and fence, that would be hard to do. I'd have to add flip stops or something but not sure that would work as the flip stop would be on a mitered edge for the final cut. If the long edge of the miter was up, that wouldn't be a problem, but its on the bottom. How do you get around that with a miter gauge and left tilting saw?
 

tdukes

New User
Eddie
Just occurred to me. I can take a fine point sharpie and mark the dimensions on the cast iron like I made on the sled.
 

Wyatt Co.

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Bill
Another thing I discovered, even with the miter gauge, is if I cut on the left side (miter up), I would get burning on the edge and inconsistent cuts. This IS because of blade flex as the blade tries to push up off the material. Essentially, the blade "pinches" the material between it and the table...or more specifically the throat plate. If the plate has any flex to it, the cut becomes inconsistent. I cut in the right side (miter edge down). All the angles of each board is as close to perfect 90's as you can get. So each edge is parallel to the opposing edge. At that rate, it doesn't matter which edge is against the miter gauge. After I cut the first miter, I measure and mark the length and cut just shy of the mark. Measure.....trim....measure....trim...wash and repeat. I creep up on ever cut I make no matter what I'm making anyway so this is usual practice for me. Yes it takes longer but I'm not known for speed. I'm known for accuracy. I take time with my cuts, especially when trimming 1/64" off or summat.
 

Jeff

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Jeff
I'm beginning to think that it's the sled designs and/or the way in which you guys are using them. Both of you get nice cuts with the miter gauge and not with the sleds (I'm the odd one out and haven't tried my miter sled vs my miter gauge for comparison).

Eddie can't view the video about how Mr. Stowe made his miter sled and fine tuned it for accuracy but claims that it's the same one or kinda like the same one. :confused:

The green doo-dad is an adjustable stop block for consistent cuts of the same length.




 

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Wyatt Co.

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Bill
I'm beginning to think that it's the sled designs and/or the way in which you guys are using them. Both of you get nice cuts with the miter gauge and not with the sleds (I'm the odd one out and haven't tried my miter sled vs my miter gauge for comparison).

Eddie can't view the video about how Mr. Stowe made his miter sled and fine tuned it for accuracy but claims that it's the same one or kinda like the same one. :confused:

The green doo-dad is an adjustable stop block for consistent cuts of the same length.





My crosscut sled has accuracy of .003" at 93". Yeah, that's a little insane but I take my time on my "jigs".

Both my miter sleds were built and setup on the same principles and design. They were build on the same simplicity as Mr. Stowe's but the last one I built had an added hold down to ensure zero movement of the stock. Since the "under the blade" weren't consistent, I moved the hold down to the other side and tried that. Depending on material and thickness of it, I still had varying results and I couldn't have that. Frankly, it made me nervous to use. I went back to the miter gauge and I'll never look back.

I don't even "square" the boxes anymore as the miter joints and the accurate lengths do it for me. I cut, assemble, and rock on without fear of joinery issues or trapezoids.

In the pics I posted, that's two of the four corners of the same box. The other two look the same as those. Jussayin'.
 

tdukes

New User
Eddie
I think I was doing it wrong and maybe just got lucky a time or two. I paid for a subscription today for the Fine Woodworking site.

I had my work piece on the left. In the video, the work piece is on the right. I think that is what Wyatt Co was saying as well.

I'm out of hardwood material at the moment except for some 8/4 stock. Might have to plan a road trip to stock up but not sure if my old 99 Ford Ranger would make it.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Gotcha, I think. This discussion would have been a lot easier and shorter if you'd shown us a few pictures of how you were cutting the miter on your sled from the beginning! :confused: :slap:

It may seem trivial, but don't cut miters with the workpiece underneath the 45 degree saw blade and maybe that's what Bill (Wyatt Co) is referring too also.
 

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tdukes

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Eddie
Gotcha, I think. This discussion would have been a lot easier and shorter if you'd shown us a few pictures of how you were cutting the miter on your sled from the beginning! :confused: :slap:

It may seem trivial, but don't cut miters with the workpiece underneath the 45 degree saw blade and maybe that's what Bill (Wyatt Co) is referring too also.

Yep, totally got myself but glad I asked the question or I would be still doing it wrong. Knew something was wrong just didn't know what.

You guys are awesome!!
 
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